Occasional oil light + 0w50 oil = real problem?
11-25-2008, 04:31 PM
#12
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Waiting for the traffic to die down * currently 17:29 p.m. P.S.T * - just bought an Odyssey PC680
15-pound battery for the MR2. Can't wait to test drive it..... maybe another hour.
* blows nose *
* wipes tear from left eye *
* feels better *
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* blows nose *
* wipes tear from left eye *
* feels better *
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11-25-2008, 04:51 PM
#14
Do you mean Mobil 1 5w-50(MB & Ferrari)?Just run a heavy oil like M1 TEN w-40 Hi-Miles or 15w-40
Experiment. Ideally, you should run a thin oil like 5w-30 synth if you take short trips, but you have a pressure issue (presumably). Since you have moderate climate, you can use 15w-40 HD dino, that should be your touchstone for pressure. If you loose pressure on that, you need to do the pump or sensor or at least directly measure OP.
What is your oil temp like when you get the OP light? If it's already high, the oil is thin and will not build presure. That sort means you have more of an oil temp problem than an oil pressure prob.
I'm confused what oil you are running. The only USA M1 in 50 weight is the 15w-50 "red cap". It is/was no good, especially the EP extended version. Look at Pennzoil Platinum 15w-50 if you want that visc. PepBoys carries/gets it.
If you are running M1 0w-40, that oil is very thin, like a 5w-30 basicly and should be removed. Please state the oil you are talking about so I know for reference. I'd try a nice 15w-40 like Chevron Delo, Mobil 1 Delvac 1300S or Valvoline Super Blue and go from there. Try a UOA lab report at some point too. I think the engine can run ok if you can avoid the OP light with the right oil.
What is your oil temp like when you get the OP light? If it's already high, the oil is thin and will not build presure. That sort means you have more of an oil temp problem than an oil pressure prob.
I'm confused what oil you are running. The only USA M1 in 50 weight is the 15w-50 "red cap". It is/was no good, especially the EP extended version. Look at Pennzoil Platinum 15w-50 if you want that visc. PepBoys carries/gets it.
If you are running M1 0w-40, that oil is very thin, like a 5w-30 basicly and should be removed. Please state the oil you are talking about so I know for reference. I'd try a nice 15w-40 like Chevron Delo, Mobil 1 Delvac 1300S or Valvoline Super Blue and go from there. Try a UOA lab report at some point too. I think the engine can run ok if you can avoid the OP light with the right oil.
11-25-2008, 05:11 PM
#17
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Doh! I stand corrected - 0w40. :)
Not sure where I got 50 - must have been thinking of the 5w50 I used in my MR2 (at least I think that's what it was - Syntec stuff). I've been using the 0w40 for around 20k miles, FYI.
My facts seem to be amiss in another area, too: my friend who's currently borrowing my car reports that the temp gauge is at 150 after ten minutes of driving. Not sure if that's normal or not, I just remember always looking down and seeing the needle pointing straight up.
In any case, the verdict seems to be that, at the very least, I should be using a heavier oil. I hate to change it again after less than 1000 miles of driving, but if you think I should, I will. And if the oil light comes on with a 15w40 then it's time to do something pricier like replacing the pump, right?
Never heard of an UOA lab report. Is that something I would have done at a garage, or a dealership?
My facts seem to be amiss in another area, too: my friend who's currently borrowing my car reports that the temp gauge is at 150 after ten minutes of driving. Not sure if that's normal or not, I just remember always looking down and seeing the needle pointing straight up.
In any case, the verdict seems to be that, at the very least, I should be using a heavier oil. I hate to change it again after less than 1000 miles of driving, but if you think I should, I will. And if the oil light comes on with a 15w40 then it's time to do something pricier like replacing the pump, right?
Never heard of an UOA lab report. Is that something I would have done at a garage, or a dealership?
11-25-2008, 05:40 PM
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Dunno.... too many variables at this point.
1. How is the car driven ?
2. How long is it driven before being shut down on average ?
3. What is the coolant temperature saying at time of shut-down ?
4. Where is the oil gauge reading at time of shutdown ? Photo to share ?
5. Outside air temps.... S.F. = 55 degrees year-round ?
6. Slanted Door at the Ferry Building sucks *****. Fusion-cuisine FTL.
I would start logging the data and report back after a week.
No use in scaring yourself with bad guessing on my part and others until you can report solid facts to us.
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2. How long is it driven before being shut down on average ?
3. What is the coolant temperature saying at time of shut-down ?
4. Where is the oil gauge reading at time of shutdown ? Photo to share ?
5. Outside air temps.... S.F. = 55 degrees year-round ?
6. Slanted Door at the Ferry Building sucks *****. Fusion-cuisine FTL.
I would start logging the data and report back after a week.
No use in scaring yourself with bad guessing on my part and others until you can report solid facts to us.
.