OK guys, I admit--I broke down and bought the whole PES G2 kit today...
04-19-2008, 08:10 PM
#11
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You won't regret it! Good to have another G2 "user" here on the board
If you need something, just ask. I will try to help you the best I can. I don't know all that much, but have put one together before....4rings is the guy for all the REAL issues!
04-19-2008, 08:24 PM
#12
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Was hoping you were going to chime in on this one--need to pick your brain a bit, too!
Bought this system "lightly used", and the guy swears on his mother's grave it was only run for a few months and is in premium shape--gave me a great deal on it, admittedly. Seems to be an honest and honorable gent, so I should be ok.
I have several ideas in mind for the temp plate setup.....need to email you....
I have several ideas in mind for the temp plate setup.....need to email you....
04-19-2008, 08:39 PM
#13
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Good luck with that one
Serously, I'd like to see you pull it off, but lots of guys have been trying to figure out how to put an IC on this system and all have failed. Just do a search on scaudi.com...
04-19-2008, 09:59 PM
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The blunt truth is that the extent of mods necessary to outperform a 30V V6 are
DRAMATICALLY greater than what is necessary to achieve the same performance out of a 30V V6. It is a matter of sheer cubic inches, period, end of discussion.
It is not coincidence that a Porsche GT2, for example, (or an RS6, for that matter) has the power it does on account of just forced induction. No, the engine size MUST accompany it. That's why it's a 3.6 motor, or a 5.2 motor, as the case may be. That's not an accident that they're that displacement.
We're not talking an F1 motor here, partner, where a 'square' 2.0 16V motor is being stuffed with 40lbs of boost and running 120 octane race fuel. We're talking street gas here--and it doesn't take a PhD---heck it doesn't take a GED---to figure out that the dynamics are entirely different.
My friend Bryce back up in Washington currently owns what has got to be easily among the most tricked out 1.8Ts on the planet right now: forged Ross pistons, forged rods, shot-peened crank, raceware bolts all around, highly ported head, o-ringed block, colossal turbo, full Stinger standalone that has been tuned to the 'Nth' degree on the chassis dyno he and his partner own in their shop---IOW 'the full meal deal'. And he's approaching 400hp right now. He has probably coughed up 6 grand just in parts so far.
Bottom line: the same level of mods on a 2.8 30v V6 would produce copious more sums of power. Simple physics, let alone common sense and incontrovertible logic. Jared (aka snowman on this forum some time ago) runs well above 500hp on his B5 S4.
No question there are some very fast 1.8T's out there, though. But there's no arguing with cubic inches, as the old saying goes, and the simple math that is commensurate with it. Only real difference is, so far very few guys out there have expended the time, calculations, parts and sheer effort to really see a 2.8 30V V6 (non-S4) get to that level, whereas the 1.8T tech has been around and refined for quite some time. And understandably so.
It is not coincidence that a Porsche GT2, for example, (or an RS6, for that matter) has the power it does on account of just forced induction. No, the engine size MUST accompany it. That's why it's a 3.6 motor, or a 5.2 motor, as the case may be. That's not an accident that they're that displacement.
We're not talking an F1 motor here, partner, where a 'square' 2.0 16V motor is being stuffed with 40lbs of boost and running 120 octane race fuel. We're talking street gas here--and it doesn't take a PhD---heck it doesn't take a GED---to figure out that the dynamics are entirely different.
My friend Bryce back up in Washington currently owns what has got to be easily among the most tricked out 1.8Ts on the planet right now: forged Ross pistons, forged rods, shot-peened crank, raceware bolts all around, highly ported head, o-ringed block, colossal turbo, full Stinger standalone that has been tuned to the 'Nth' degree on the chassis dyno he and his partner own in their shop---IOW 'the full meal deal'. And he's approaching 400hp right now. He has probably coughed up 6 grand just in parts so far.
Bottom line: the same level of mods on a 2.8 30v V6 would produce copious more sums of power. Simple physics, let alone common sense and incontrovertible logic. Jared (aka snowman on this forum some time ago) runs well above 500hp on his B5 S4.
No question there are some very fast 1.8T's out there, though. But there's no arguing with cubic inches, as the old saying goes, and the simple math that is commensurate with it. Only real difference is, so far very few guys out there have expended the time, calculations, parts and sheer effort to really see a 2.8 30V V6 (non-S4) get to that level, whereas the 1.8T tech has been around and refined for quite some time. And understandably so.
04-19-2008, 10:48 PM
#16
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I'm interested in what you may have in mind
I also bought mine used, from a very nice looking grade school teacher. She said her ex-boyfriend put this thing on her car....she got t-boned....and I got a smokin' deal on a charger. She said there was about 10k on it. I'm pretty sure you'll be fine.
tdel10@hotmail.com
tdel10@hotmail.com
04-19-2008, 11:36 PM
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Unless you relocate the coilpacks, you don't have an extra 1/2" to play with.
the coilpacks literally TOUCH the hoodliner. There are only three concievable ways I have figured out, two of which are water to air.
1) put however thick of a core you want between the SC and the intake mani. get a longer belt, vac lnes, compressor inlet pipe, re-work the throttle cable and pcv...oh... and a get a custom hood, or cut a big old hole in one.
2) Have a one-off custom intake manifold cast for you. It would have to be totally flat, with no runners....this would allow a few inches for a sandwich plate. Would also have to fab up a fuel rail....and I'm sure some other things.
3) Get a G1 kit(good luck), and use an FMIC(ala 4rings...i think)
Bottom line is, one of the major components has to change or be modified before a plate could be used. There is simply no room. IIRC PES was asking around for ideas on this a while back. They were seeing if there would be enough interest for them to even start putting something into the design phase. There was a demand, but the end product would have to be priced so high, the demand would be lost. I'm pretty sure they scrapped the idea. There would be so much R&D involved in producing a kit, that the regular joe couldn't afford it. Plus the criteria that needs to be met is almost unreasonable....superior fit and finish, "plug and play", fit under the stock hood, adequately cool the system, a smaller pulley and a new tune would also have to be in the works. And not to mention, it has to look good.
1) put however thick of a core you want between the SC and the intake mani. get a longer belt, vac lnes, compressor inlet pipe, re-work the throttle cable and pcv...oh... and a get a custom hood, or cut a big old hole in one.
2) Have a one-off custom intake manifold cast for you. It would have to be totally flat, with no runners....this would allow a few inches for a sandwich plate. Would also have to fab up a fuel rail....and I'm sure some other things.
3) Get a G1 kit(good luck), and use an FMIC(ala 4rings...i think)
Bottom line is, one of the major components has to change or be modified before a plate could be used. There is simply no room. IIRC PES was asking around for ideas on this a while back. They were seeing if there would be enough interest for them to even start putting something into the design phase. There was a demand, but the end product would have to be priced so high, the demand would be lost. I'm pretty sure they scrapped the idea. There would be so much R&D involved in producing a kit, that the regular joe couldn't afford it. Plus the criteria that needs to be met is almost unreasonable....superior fit and finish, "plug and play", fit under the stock hood, adequately cool the system, a smaller pulley and a new tune would also have to be in the works. And not to mention, it has to look good.
04-19-2008, 11:53 PM
#19
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Had actually already thought about the hole in the hood---there are ways to
make such a hood cosmetically attractive, a la my previous Golf II hood that had a very flat scoop in it---I got tons of compliments on it before a sh*thead panel truck driver (who was yakkin on his stinkin' cell phone) backed into it and destroyed it, along with nearly 2000 in custom german front-end goodies. 'Bout 2 years ago. bad memory.
Anyway, I had an idea about an aluminum sanwich plate about 1/2 to 3/4 in thick with runners pre-drilled in it, run CO2 thru it from a cannister----stuff natuarlly cools as it moves through the plenum--drops temps 'about' 100 to 120 degrees--significant.
Anyway, I had an idea about an aluminum sanwich plate about 1/2 to 3/4 in thick with runners pre-drilled in it, run CO2 thru it from a cannister----stuff natuarlly cools as it moves through the plenum--drops temps 'about' 100 to 120 degrees--significant.
04-20-2008, 12:05 AM
#20
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Haven't thought of using a gas.
Still that 1/2 to 3/4 in thick plate is gonna cause some headaches, workable maybe, but a little more detailed than I think you realize. Once you install the kit, I'd bet dollars to donuts you'll be scratching your head. Good idea...just a lot of work involved to make that good idea great.
have you seen this thread?<ul><li><a href="http://scaudi.com/sc/index.php?showtopic=1830">http://scaudi.com/sc/index.php?showtopic=1830</a></li></ul>
have you seen this thread?<ul><li><a href="http://scaudi.com/sc/index.php?showtopic=1830">http://scaudi.com/sc/index.php?showtopic=1830</a></li></ul>