xr4tic

I picked up some Energy Suspension swaybar bushings from Summit.

28mm for the front, ES part number 9.5163R, SR part number ENS-9-5163R
14mm for the rear, ES part number 9.5153R, SR part number ENS-9-5153R
Substitute G instead of R if you want black instead of red bushings.

I didn't know if they would work, but for $30 or so, I figured I'd give it a shot. I found that they are not an exact bolt in, but getting something to work is half the fun

FWIW, I've got the non-sport front sway bar (28mm, same as sport) and sport rear sway bar (15mm) combined with Hyperco 450/500 springs on Bilsteins (hopefully soon to be swapped out for Konis)

Front bushing comparison:
<a href="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_1_lo.jpg"></a>

First, if you look, you'll notice the ES flange is even with the bottom of the bushing, but the stock is not, the bushing actually dips down into the frame on the car.
Second, the ES flange is slotted. This could cause the bushing to move back and forth.

To solve these problems, I cut a piece of metal to go under the new bushing/flange and cut some shims to keep the bushing in place.
<a href="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_2_lo.jpg"></a>

Installed:
<a href="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_front_3_lo.jpg"></a>
You can see the bump in the frame where the stock bushing goes.

I'm not sure if moving the swaybar pivot point down changes it's leverage effect on the front suspension.

The rear:
Since the bushing is 14mm, and the sport rear bar is 15mm, I took a drill bit and enlarged it slightly using a drill press. It didn't do much since the bushing is split, so it would just open up.

I had to cut the bushing stop off of the swaybar, since the ES bushings were much wider. They are just pressed on, you can cut it in half using a hacksaw. The ES bushing is wide enough that it's right next to the curved area of the bar. Hopefully that's enough to keep it from moving.

I don't think the Neuspeed bar has stops on it, and I think it even uses bushings very similar to the ES bushings. Can anyone confirm this?

<a href="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_rear_1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_rear_1_lo.jpg"></a>

Here are the bushings on the bar:
<a href="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_rear_2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/latest/sway_rear_2_lo.jpg"></a>

The bolt spacing in the rear is small enough that a shim should not be needed.

After installing the bar, I would recommend against getting the greasable rear bushings, there's no way to grease them on the car (no room)
Non-greasable bushings are part number 9.5103R (ENS-9-5103R)

optimus prime

How about putting the bushing in upside down so the round end goes where the stock one did?

xr4tic

so you'd have to pound the old bolts out, and install longer ones, which may not be possible.

moribundman

I expressed some concern regarding the aftermarket bracket, which seemed less substantial than the OEM one. I'm not sure I'm fond of the fact that the aftermarket bushing doesn't fit like the OEM, and that you actually had to McGuyver a few shims and a base plate to make it fit.

So, how does it feel when you drive the car? And maybe you can check if the brackets stay in place and if the base plates (I don't know what else to call it) start giving in after a while.

gk1

they don't fit with the grease fitting. Even tried a 90 degree fitting, but after looking at it for a bit realized it would be too tight a fit, and the exhaust would hit on the one side if it even moved a little bit. Too bad, cause I'm tired of the sqeaking...will just have to repalce the neuspeed bushings when I have time.

rtking

I've got the 19mm Neuspeed rear bar also. I am going to drill a hole into the stock bracket and insert a Zerk fitting so I can squeeze in grease. I'm also going to drill into the bushing itself (so the grease will make it to the bar) and use the Dremel to make a trench around the inside of the bushing (no more than 2-3 mm wide) so the grease will flow around the bar. Hopefully this will stop the squeaking problem!

I'll let you guys know how this goes...

Bob K.
'97 A4 2.8 QMS

BIG NIPPER

And I really hated it. Squeaked squeaked and squeaked. The polyurethane grease that Energy provides is very good in terms of not washing off, but it is also expensive! I had to regrease my stuff every couple months to prevent squeakage. Personally I would stick with rubber bushings.

xr4tic

how much support do you really need anyways?

If these were rubber bushings, then the bracket design probably wouldn't hold the bushings in, which is why the stock ones are designed the way they are.

xr4tic

it's just that the placement of the grease fitting on the top is impossible to get a grease gun on.

If you do drill, then I would suggest drilling in from the side, not the top of the bracket, that should give you the room you need.

xr4tic

no problems.

I just used a standard grease for these.

A truck has a lot more suspension travel, so the bar will move more, so the potential for squeeks on a truck is probably higher than our cars.