B5Davem

I've web searched and can't find others . The prices are way up on Powerflex (UK) because of the dollar situation and was looking to see if were made that were less expensive.

Roger @ CA

And wanted to swap in new urethane bushings before installing them... Was undecided whether to get pre-sized poly-urethane bushings (easy), or to get Delrin rods and cut them to fit (way harder)


Here's the links I came up with...
-<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/411847.phtml">DIY Method...</a> using Chevy aftermarket bushings

-<a href="http://www.polybushings.com/pages/bushingsbysize.html">PolyBushings.com</a>, the method I'm going to try.

-<a href="http://www.goturethane.com/RunScript.asp?page=1&Article_type=Company%20News&p =ASP\Pg1.asp">If we want to get a small run machined for us...</a>

all from my <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/midatlantic/msgs/212480.phtml">original post here.</a>

77'911

I thought the same thing. Unfortunately, timing is not anywhere near on our side as far as the dollar goes. I've been slowly converting some of the bushings on our Audi over to urethane. The sway bar units are not bad to do, but some mods need to be made. Well worth it though.
If you want to use the people in the link, you'll need to mic and spec out the bushings. Since they already have a number of apps for VW control arms my guess is the bushings already exist, but that nobody has bothered to do the conversion yet(ie spec the sizing). I installed a complete urethane bushing kit on the families 4runner with stunning results, cost $150.
The specs I got on the rear diff bracket were:
ID 42.05-6mm
W 29.96-8mm
The above mentioned specs were with the original bushing shell removed. If you reuse the metal inner sleeve from the old bushing, the OD is 24.33-5mm. These were the best specs I could get off it as I had not cleaned it off completely yet. Its not a bad idea to reuse the original sleeve so a new one does not need to be fitted or made. It really depends on there sizing availability.<ul><li><a href="http://suspension.com/">urethane bushings</a></li></ul>

B5Davem

on past cars I've done it with success but it gets old. May still,buy Powerflex front sway bushings and look for sizing the other ones. I'm planning on rear diff crossmember bushings from PureMS also. Just maintenance ,no problems .

JWG

I had generation 1 of Powerflex's bushings installed several years ago when the rubber bushings on my upper control arms started to crack and fail. At that time (about 1999), one could only source control arms from the dealerships; so, I decided to replace the bushings only as the ball joints had not worn out the edges of their sockets.

I have heard that Powerflex has now done at least two or more generations of bushings for the b5 chassis. Each version improved on the last. Generation 1 had two problems: first the lower rear control arm bushings were just slightly too square, requiring shaving the outer edges to fit the curved edges in the subframe. Second, they squeaked in cool weather. The first was easily cured with a lathe; the second could be cured with tapping the sub &amp; upper frames with grease fittings. You may have neither of these problems with the subsequent generations of their bushings.

Those detriments aside, there exist two main benefits: (1) slot car like handling &amp; (2) elimination of control arm deflection.

Re Handling: The driver gets a lot of feed back with the urethane bushings which does have the effect of making the car lose the luxury ride feel. Yet, it also allows the driver to feel the limits of adhesion as well as the slightest inbalance in the wheels or misalignment in the suspension.

Re Deflection: With 226,000 miles on the car, I still run all eight of my factory control arms, because the lack of control arm deflection prevents the ball joints from wearing out the edges of their sockets. I just had the car on a lift today at the tire shop and the lower front control arms continue to look fine. I bought two lower front control arms in anticipation of replacing them, because the Powerflex bushing set replaces all bushings except those. But, as the rubber bushings in the front control arms have not yet died, I will save them for later.

Delrin would probably work very well also, but the amount of effort you want to put in depends on you. Getting those OEM bushings out was enough effort for me.

JAFO

where do you live? i'm on my 4th set of front arms in NH.

JWG

the Ventura/Los Angeles County line to Downtown L.A. and back.

I have been lucky not to bend my 15lb 17" forged aluminum racing wheels on the horrible non-maintained streets of L.A. The scars on the bottom of my car bear witness to the rough roads I drive on, because the city repairs few, if any, of the bus stops where the buses' weight and wheel torque distorts the asphalt to the point that my car bottoms out on combo depression/mounds nor does the city repair many of the pot holes that form when rain undermines the foundations of the many old streets that lack modern weather proof foundations.

Also, despite how hard I corner my car, my tires routinely last longer than the manufacturer's wear rating with merely a few extra pounds of pressure to keep the straightaway wear on the center tread rather than the shoulder tread; e.g., running at 35-36 psi instead of 32-33. I still have 5000+ miles of very even tread remaining (except for one tire that suffered a little inner shoulder wear due to alignment) on a set of Fuzion ZRi's on which I have already put over 43,000 miles.

I do not believe any of this durability and longevity would have occurred without replacing the rubber OEM bushings with Powerflex urethane bushings to eliminate control arm deflection.

JAFO

then the ball joints failed inspection, having yearly safety inspections is a two edged sword. frost heaves seem to be the main culprit although cold and salt play a big part in suspension failures here.

M.S.G.

Love my Powerflex bushings.