proper way to flush coolant?
09-04-2008, 01:11 PM
#1
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proper way to flush coolant?
what is the proper way to flush the coolant? the bentley is confusing.
I need to make sure I do it right because the engine is dry, and I don't want it to over heat.
I've done it a few times before on the old motor, but it would always get really hot (3/4 on the temp gauge) before the t-stat popped and it started accepting coolant.
Do you fill the resevoir to the brim, close the cap, and keep the bleeder close (hose going to heater core) or do you leave the resevoir cap off, and keep the bleeder craacked open? Not sure how this works in regards to pressure building up, etc.
I need to make sure I do it right because the engine is dry, and I don't want it to over heat.
I've done it a few times before on the old motor, but it would always get really hot (3/4 on the temp gauge) before the t-stat popped and it started accepting coolant.
Do you fill the resevoir to the brim, close the cap, and keep the bleeder close (hose going to heater core) or do you leave the resevoir cap off, and keep the bleeder craacked open? Not sure how this works in regards to pressure building up, etc.
09-04-2008, 01:17 PM
#2
you mean filling or flushing? If engine is dry, I'd spray a garden hose to a bare radiator and
heater core to flush them out.
Filling, I keep radiator cap out until temperature starts to build and water starts overflowing out of the reservoir.
Filling, I keep radiator cap out until temperature starts to build and water starts overflowing out of the reservoir.
09-04-2008, 01:26 PM
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filling, it's a new motor
yeah, i already washed out the heater core and radiator w/ garden hose.
I'm going to remove the upper radiator hose and try to fill the rad and engine with as much water as possible.
I'm going to remove the upper radiator hose and try to fill the rad and engine with as much water as possible.
09-04-2008, 02:37 PM
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when you fill the reservoir, it will eventually fill the radiator via the lower hose...
fill the reservoir, leave the cap off, start the car, put heat on high. you'll need to add some water once the water pump starts to circulate water and the t-stat opens up.
then cap the reservoir, leave the car running for a little bit. fans should come on, gauge might read high (but it reads 3/4 at about 95*C so you are OK). Then turn the car off, carefully remove reservoir cap and lots of air should release.
restart car and bleed from heater core hose.
hope that helps.
then cap the reservoir, leave the car running for a little bit. fans should come on, gauge might read high (but it reads 3/4 at about 95*C so you are OK). Then turn the car off, carefully remove reservoir cap and lots of air should release.
restart car and bleed from heater core hose.
hope that helps.
09-04-2008, 03:34 PM
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no luck,... im not sure what the heck to do
cars been run for about 30 minutes and the t-stat never opens. it's a brand new oem t-stat the lower radiator hose is still cold and feels like it has no water in it. i have no clue what to do now.
i had issues like this before too, where it took forever to take in the coolant....but i have all new components.
i had issues like this before too, where it took forever to take in the coolant....but i have all new components.
09-04-2008, 04:40 PM
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Is it installed in the correct direction?
You can install it backwards.
We had issues getting my cooling system working correctly... it is believed that my thermostat was in backwards, but it fell out when I dropped the black thermostat cover/cap so I never knew for sure, I also installed a new thermostat. We also use the pressure bleeder at work, so it applies vacuum to the system to remove air pockets.
We had issues getting my cooling system working correctly... it is believed that my thermostat was in backwards, but it fell out when I dropped the black thermostat cover/cap so I never knew for sure, I also installed a new thermostat. We also use the pressure bleeder at work, so it applies vacuum to the system to remove air pockets.
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09-04-2008, 05:11 PM
#8
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Find yourself a tool that pressurizes the system. Advance or AutoZone usually has them.
This will help force the water through the block, radiator, and jiggle-valve on the t-stat.
09-04-2008, 07:08 PM
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ok...i swapped the OEM t-stat out for a 160 degree one i bought a while ago, and it's working ok...
kinda weird because the OEM one opens fine in a pot of water. not sure what the deal was.
09-04-2008, 09:30 PM
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not pressure. vacuum. the tool is called an airlift. google it! 100 bux for master kit can be had
best tool i ever purchased makes cars notorious for getting airbound no sweat!
*edit* there are bleed points in the system. consult bentley*/edit*
*edit* there are bleed points in the system. consult bentley*/edit*