PS pressure hose
#1
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have placed an order of ps pressure hose (second hose connected to rack) since I found some serious leak. Is there any other part I should have to buy, such as o-ring, washer, etc???
My car is 99 2.8 AHA quattro.
Thanks in advance!
My car is 99 2.8 AHA quattro.
Thanks in advance!
#2
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where exactly is the leak located? It is usually the steering rack itself that leaks rather than the hoses. Unless the hose fittings were loosened or moved, it is unlikely the 'banjo' fittings will leak.
#7
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You are correct. I was working on something else, and so I disconnected some parts here and there.
Anyways, I usually add ps fluid almost once a week. It's like about 1/2" lowered level of fluid in the reservoir when I check it every week.
Anyways, I usually add ps fluid almost once a week. It's like about 1/2" lowered level of fluid in the reservoir when I check it every week.
Trending Topics
#8
AudiWorld Super User
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd start by degreasing, then pay attention to where you see the oil appear again, to be sure it is that hose. I had a pressure hose leak on our Passat 1.8T last year, and changed it. I'd suggest that you take the driver's side wheel off, and the plastic shroud where the tie-rod passes through, so you can also carefully clean under the rack.
If it's anything like the Passat, there's not much working room at the rack connection. I used U-joint socket and extensions from below to get at the banjo bolt. I also reused the aluminum crush-washers, smoothing both sides on a wide flat file first- and have no leaks. Here's a trick to put it back together: Install the banjo bolt with both washers on the rack-end of the hose, using a rubber band wrapped around the exposed bolt threads. Now the hose can be eased into place by one person, while another works through the wheel well to get the socket on the bolt head, and get it started on the rack's threads. After a couple of turns, pull on the rubber band until it breaks and comes off. I used a length of coat-hanger wire with a hooked end. Purge air as usual with the front wheels off the ground, turing lock-to-lock many times. After a few days recheck the banjo bolt tightness.
If it's anything like the Passat, there's not much working room at the rack connection. I used U-joint socket and extensions from below to get at the banjo bolt. I also reused the aluminum crush-washers, smoothing both sides on a wide flat file first- and have no leaks. Here's a trick to put it back together: Install the banjo bolt with both washers on the rack-end of the hose, using a rubber band wrapped around the exposed bolt threads. Now the hose can be eased into place by one person, while another works through the wheel well to get the socket on the bolt head, and get it started on the rack's threads. After a couple of turns, pull on the rubber band until it breaks and comes off. I used a length of coat-hanger wire with a hooked end. Purge air as usual with the front wheels off the ground, turing lock-to-lock many times. After a few days recheck the banjo bolt tightness.
#9
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
.....If it's anything like the Passat, there's not much working room at the rack connection. I used U-joint socket and extensions from below to get at the banjo bolt. I also reused the aluminum crush-washers, smoothing both sides on a wide flat file first- and have no leaks. Here's a trick to put it back together: Install the banjo bolt with both washers on the rack-end of the hose, using a rubber band wrapped around the exposed bolt threads. Now the hose can be eased into place by one person, while another works through the wheel well to get the socket on the bolt head, and get it started on the rack's threads. After a couple of turns, pull on the rubber band until it breaks and comes off. I used a length of coat-hanger wire with a hooked end.....
What I have found also helps given the tight area to work within is to remove the rack bottom bolt and loosen the top two so the rack can be moved around slightly. You will need a 10mm 12-point socket for the bolts.
#10
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd start by degreasing, then pay attention to where you see the oil appear again, to be sure it is that hose. I had a pressure hose leak on our Passat 1.8T last year, and changed it. I'd suggest that you take the driver's side wheel off, and the plastic shroud where the tie-rod passes through, so you can also carefully clean under the rack.
If it's anything like the Passat, there's not much working room at the rack connection. I used U-joint socket and extensions from below to get at the banjo bolt. I also reused the aluminum crush-washers, smoothing both sides on a wide flat file first- and have no leaks. Here's a trick to put it back together: Install the banjo bolt with both washers on the rack-end of the hose, using a rubber band wrapped around the exposed bolt threads. Now the hose can be eased into place by one person, while another works through the wheel well to get the socket on the bolt head, and get it started on the rack's threads. After a couple of turns, pull on the rubber band until it breaks and comes off. I used a length of coat-hanger wire with a hooked end. Purge air as usual with the front wheels off the ground, turing lock-to-lock many times. After a few days recheck the banjo bolt tightness.
If it's anything like the Passat, there's not much working room at the rack connection. I used U-joint socket and extensions from below to get at the banjo bolt. I also reused the aluminum crush-washers, smoothing both sides on a wide flat file first- and have no leaks. Here's a trick to put it back together: Install the banjo bolt with both washers on the rack-end of the hose, using a rubber band wrapped around the exposed bolt threads. Now the hose can be eased into place by one person, while another works through the wheel well to get the socket on the bolt head, and get it started on the rack's threads. After a couple of turns, pull on the rubber band until it breaks and comes off. I used a length of coat-hanger wire with a hooked end. Purge air as usual with the front wheels off the ground, turing lock-to-lock many times. After a few days recheck the banjo bolt tightness.
and thanks for the tip! It will help me a lot. I have a question though. Can you please explain a little more detail about the bleeding process? Did you turn wheels lock to lock while the engine is running?