Pushes when cornering hard at track need some help
#21
a comment....
<center><img src="http://i12.tinypic.com/4zcsbcl.jpg"></center><p>If your tracking the car then a decent set of sway bars/bushings is probably the way to go but don't forget to upgrade the links as well. Our car already had the sport suspension but, so the oem sways were kept. I upgraded the rear links to the metal versions(see pic) over the orignal plastic ones which made a big improvement on turn-in. The original plastic units are a joke. I also added urethane bushings to the sway bars which made a huge improvement, especially in reducing body roll.
Regards
Regards
#22
sway bar bushing....
<center><img src="http://i18.tinypic.com/8btir7s.jpg"></center><p>Here's the type of urethane bushing I installed to the factory sport sway bar. Its much wider and firmer then the factory oem bushing set-up. Good luck in the search.
Regards
Regards
#23
left foot trail braking done right helps this. Otherwise you can slow down your entry...
Or reduce lateral grip a bit starting from the rear. Swaybars are the quickest way of doing this.
Now if you want your front to have more lateral grip without touching the rears, then it's very pricey
Now if you want your front to have more lateral grip without touching the rears, then it's very pricey
#24
OK, makes sense. Approx 2lbs less on my config worked best for me.
It is all about your personal perference, driving style, the track design and the car's configuration.
When I was on the track I was running on the factory sport suspension with 16" Kuhmo track tires. Also my car had the V6 with the TIP.
At an Audi Club event in Pahrump, we had a tire manufacture rep with surface temp gauge. Coming in from a HOT lab the temps were even across the contact patch and close in all corners.
When I was on the track I was running on the factory sport suspension with 16" Kuhmo track tires. Also my car had the V6 with the TIP.
At an Audi Club event in Pahrump, we had a tire manufacture rep with surface temp gauge. Coming in from a HOT lab the temps were even across the contact patch and close in all corners.
#25
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This table contradicts your statement....
Tire pressure changes have always been a bit confusing to me, because you are also changing the effective spring rate. The table in this atricle does make a distinction for R-compound tires, perhaps this is the difference?<ul><li><a href="http://www.se-r.net/car_info/suspension_tuning.html">In error?</a></li></ul>
#26
generally you are supposed to run lower pressure in the rear.
higher rear pressure will cause the rear brakes to lock before the front.
which results in great unpredicatable rotation and poor braking efficiency.
<a href="http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=AR4&url=%2Ftires%2Ftiretech%2Ftechpage.jsp %3Ftechid%3D58">Tirerack's pressure chart</a> shows the rear consistantly with lower pressure.
which results in great unpredicatable rotation and poor braking efficiency.
<a href="http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=AR4&url=%2Ftires%2Ftiretech%2Ftechpage.jsp %3Ftechid%3D58">Tirerack's pressure chart</a> shows the rear consistantly with lower pressure.
#28
I know that when I run less pressure in the rear, the car is less tail happy...
That was the only way I was able to settle the 4000 around VIR last April since I was literally drifting around every turn b/c of a **** poor alignment and improperly set coilovers :-P
#30
I keep higher in the front and lower in the rear...
has always worked for me. But there's also that line in the sand where too little pressure in the tire will also cause too much of a slip angle and cause you to get tail happy as well. It's all about the balance, and also how stiff the sidewall is on the tire!
I used to put high pressure in the rear at autox's and lower in the front to get the car to rotate a little more. Still didn't help, but it was worth a try... heh.
I used to put high pressure in the rear at autox's and lower in the front to get the car to rotate a little more. Still didn't help, but it was worth a try... heh.
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