Short Shifter install writeup
04-27-2006, 04:57 PM
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Short Shifter install writeup
This is the install for a 2001 A4TQM, there is no push down reverse in this car. I think this is good for late 99 and newer cars. I bought my shifter from ebay for $40 with shipping. It is a B&M knockoff. 2001s have a larger piece that comes off the console and reveals the shifter - probably easier to work on than earlier models.
Use this guide at your own risk, I don't warranty anything. If you see something wrong, please let me know.
1) Go to the bottom and check out some of my tips for working in tight places that you might drop a bolt. Also the links I used to do my install are at the bottom.
2) Make sure you have all the right tools for the job. You don't want to be without a car trying to get to the store to pick something up.
1. Circlip tools. Both medium and small size. At the very least you NEED the medium size ones. Putting the small one on can be done without but would be a PITA.
2. Goggles(you don't want to lose an eye or two removing a circlip and not be able to drive anymore)
3. Sockets 10mm,
4. 4 or 6 inch extension for socket
5. Open end/box wrench 10mm
6. Torx #20
7. Alan/Hex wrenches 6mm & 3mm - If you have a socket style 6mm it makes it much easier. If not, use a long handled L or T style one for this unless you want to put a pair of pliers on the short kind and try to make it work.
8. Thread lock / Loctite. Use the blue kind.
9. Grease (I used white grease but they say you should use a synthetic)
3) Lift off the console plate. This is the part surrounding the shift boot/leather. This is just held in with some clips. Lifting up on it from the end closest to the parking break will pop the clips out.
4) Unscrew shift ****
5) Lift console plate off. (I left the boot attached to it)
6) Remove the padding and let the fun begin.
7) Remove shift cover 10mm nuts. If it is older than 99.5 I think one nut is 10mm and the other is 13mm Remove cover.
8) Using a nail or a sharpie mark the location of the square washer on the shifter linkage, as well as the round one on the shifter brace one. (Picture 1a)
9) Using the 6mm Hex, remove them both.
10) Remove the four 10mm nuts that fasten the shift linkage to the body of the vehicle. The front nuts closest to the stereo must be removed using a 10mm box-end wrench. Use the ratchet and extension on the ones closest to the ebrake. (picture bolts)
a. Note, Hold the shifter up when you take off the last bolt else it will possibly fall. Mine did not fall but was very tight in there and I had to tap on the 4 bolts and push down in the tray area with the end of a hammer.
b.Now that it is down, you have revealed the 4 to Torx #20 bolts and can access them
11) Remove the four (4) Torx #20s (picture bolts)
12) You can now remove the linkage/brass colored rails/shifter all in one piece. You might have to wiggle it around a bit to get it out, but it will come.
13) Now bring the assembly to your bench and use a 10mm wrench and socket to take the nut and bolt off that holds the shifter to the fork.
14) Remove the large circlip with the medium size circlip tool. And then remove the washer under it. If you have a vise on your bench you can put the assembly in it to hold it for you. Don't clamp it down too hard though, it's only plastic. If you are having a tough time getting it off, use a small screwdriver to pry it out as you squeeze it with the circlip tool.
15) Remove shifter from the assembly
16) Remove the shifter from the ball socket by pulling it down. This is the same direction it goes back on the new one. Picture 2
17) Pull the brass rails and the rubber bushings out of the assembly .
18) Slide new nylon bushings (Picture 1 part D) onto the rails
Note the orientation. The wider rib part is closest to the stereo end of the rails. Picture 3
19) Center the bushings in the middle of the rails and turn them so the slots are to the inside.
20) Grab hold of the assembly and orient it as if it were in the car. Linkage parts forward. Slide the rails with new bushings in from the linkage side. Install C clips (Picture 1 part E) onto the bushings so they can not slide out of the assembly. You might need to use a small screwdriver to make sure they are all the way on.
21) Get new shifter with ball on it (picture 1 part A) and attach the small circlip (Picture 1 Part C) Installed - Picture 4 (this picture is already assembled but that's where the clip belongs)
22) Decide what "throw reduction" you want. Press the two bushings (Picture 1 part F) into the holes, one from each side. Picture 5
23) Using some synthetic grease, grease the inside of the socket.
24) Install new shifter with ball attached into the socket.
25) Put the shifter and socket back into the assembly.
26) Reinstall the large washer and circlip.
27) Get your thread lock /loctite
28) Position the fork (Picture 1 part B) onto the shifter. Picture 5. Make sure to study the picture and orient the fork in the correct manner. Insert through bolt, apply thread lock and install nut (Picture 1 part G) using the 3mm alan and wrench. You should probably also grease this area as it is a moving part.
29) Reinstall - you should be able to do this - you just took it apart. Look below before doing it all.
30) Make sure to line up the washers with the scribed marks you made before taking it apart. Your shifter should be straight up and down and centered. Gently tighten the hex bolts but don't tighten them hard - just enough to hold it in place. Push the shifter left and right through neutral making sure it doesn't hit anything it shouldn't be. If it is, loosen the bolt with the square washer and adjust it accordingly, tighten it again. When you go through the gears, do the same thing and adjust with the rectangle washer bolt if it doesn't make it all the way in gear or hits. Tighten down the bolt with the square washer.
31) Now put the seat where you usually drive, thread on the shift ****.
32) Loosen the hex bolt with the round washer. You can now slide the whole assembly forward and back on the brass rails in order to position it where is best suitable for your feeling while driving. Tighten it down.
33) Start the car and keep the clutch in. Let it out slow and make sure that neutral is in fact neutral. Put it in first and see if it catches right. Also make sure you can put it in reverse. Before putting the console plate back on take it for a drive nice and easy and test all the gears.
34) Head home, replace the shifter cover and the plate back on
35) Enjoy!
I did the install in about an hour and fifteen minutes and didn't drop or have to search for anything. Everything lined up perfectly and the car shifts smooth and the shorter throw has a great feel. The shifter works great so far and has already made the car much more enjoyable to drive.
1
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1.jpg">
Bolts
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/bolts.jpg">
1a
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1a.jpg">
2
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/2.jpg">
3
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/3.jpg">
4
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/4.jpg">
5
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/5.jpg">
finished
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/ssfinished.jpg">
Tips for tough places to reach
Here are a few tips for working in tight places where bolts and screw have a tendency of falling out of reach. The first is when removing nuts and bolts. If you unscrew them almost all of the way, then use a tool like the one below and grab onto them and unscrew them the rest of the way, it stays right in the tongs. Helps if you have big hands also.
Putting bolts back in place when they are deep in the car can be a pain and frustrating if you drop one. That is why I use a magnetic tip on the drivers, as well as a wire tie(the kind that might be on bread or holding wires when you just buy something) not a zip tie. Just make a little hook on the end of the tie, put the bolt in it, and squeeze it tight around with your fingers. Put the tip on the head, and the other hand on the tie and glide it in. Just pull the tie off once you get it started. Obviously this is useful anywhere in the car.
grabber tool and in action
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/pickuptool.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1a.jpg">
Wiretie
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/wiretie.jpg">
Links
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/658597.phtml">Tips</a>
<a href="http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/25.pdf">B&M</a>
<a href="http://www.innovativeperformanceproducts.com/B5_Shifter_installation.htm">V&S</a>
Use this guide at your own risk, I don't warranty anything. If you see something wrong, please let me know.
1) Go to the bottom and check out some of my tips for working in tight places that you might drop a bolt. Also the links I used to do my install are at the bottom.
2) Make sure you have all the right tools for the job. You don't want to be without a car trying to get to the store to pick something up.
1. Circlip tools. Both medium and small size. At the very least you NEED the medium size ones. Putting the small one on can be done without but would be a PITA.
2. Goggles(you don't want to lose an eye or two removing a circlip and not be able to drive anymore)
3. Sockets 10mm,
4. 4 or 6 inch extension for socket
5. Open end/box wrench 10mm
6. Torx #20
7. Alan/Hex wrenches 6mm & 3mm - If you have a socket style 6mm it makes it much easier. If not, use a long handled L or T style one for this unless you want to put a pair of pliers on the short kind and try to make it work.
8. Thread lock / Loctite. Use the blue kind.
9. Grease (I used white grease but they say you should use a synthetic)
3) Lift off the console plate. This is the part surrounding the shift boot/leather. This is just held in with some clips. Lifting up on it from the end closest to the parking break will pop the clips out.
4) Unscrew shift ****
5) Lift console plate off. (I left the boot attached to it)
6) Remove the padding and let the fun begin.
7) Remove shift cover 10mm nuts. If it is older than 99.5 I think one nut is 10mm and the other is 13mm Remove cover.
8) Using a nail or a sharpie mark the location of the square washer on the shifter linkage, as well as the round one on the shifter brace one. (Picture 1a)
9) Using the 6mm Hex, remove them both.
10) Remove the four 10mm nuts that fasten the shift linkage to the body of the vehicle. The front nuts closest to the stereo must be removed using a 10mm box-end wrench. Use the ratchet and extension on the ones closest to the ebrake. (picture bolts)
a. Note, Hold the shifter up when you take off the last bolt else it will possibly fall. Mine did not fall but was very tight in there and I had to tap on the 4 bolts and push down in the tray area with the end of a hammer.
b.Now that it is down, you have revealed the 4 to Torx #20 bolts and can access them
11) Remove the four (4) Torx #20s (picture bolts)
12) You can now remove the linkage/brass colored rails/shifter all in one piece. You might have to wiggle it around a bit to get it out, but it will come.
13) Now bring the assembly to your bench and use a 10mm wrench and socket to take the nut and bolt off that holds the shifter to the fork.
14) Remove the large circlip with the medium size circlip tool. And then remove the washer under it. If you have a vise on your bench you can put the assembly in it to hold it for you. Don't clamp it down too hard though, it's only plastic. If you are having a tough time getting it off, use a small screwdriver to pry it out as you squeeze it with the circlip tool.
15) Remove shifter from the assembly
16) Remove the shifter from the ball socket by pulling it down. This is the same direction it goes back on the new one. Picture 2
17) Pull the brass rails and the rubber bushings out of the assembly .
18) Slide new nylon bushings (Picture 1 part D) onto the rails
Note the orientation. The wider rib part is closest to the stereo end of the rails. Picture 3
19) Center the bushings in the middle of the rails and turn them so the slots are to the inside.
20) Grab hold of the assembly and orient it as if it were in the car. Linkage parts forward. Slide the rails with new bushings in from the linkage side. Install C clips (Picture 1 part E) onto the bushings so they can not slide out of the assembly. You might need to use a small screwdriver to make sure they are all the way on.
21) Get new shifter with ball on it (picture 1 part A) and attach the small circlip (Picture 1 Part C) Installed - Picture 4 (this picture is already assembled but that's where the clip belongs)
22) Decide what "throw reduction" you want. Press the two bushings (Picture 1 part F) into the holes, one from each side. Picture 5
23) Using some synthetic grease, grease the inside of the socket.
24) Install new shifter with ball attached into the socket.
25) Put the shifter and socket back into the assembly.
26) Reinstall the large washer and circlip.
27) Get your thread lock /loctite
28) Position the fork (Picture 1 part B) onto the shifter. Picture 5. Make sure to study the picture and orient the fork in the correct manner. Insert through bolt, apply thread lock and install nut (Picture 1 part G) using the 3mm alan and wrench. You should probably also grease this area as it is a moving part.
29) Reinstall - you should be able to do this - you just took it apart. Look below before doing it all.
30) Make sure to line up the washers with the scribed marks you made before taking it apart. Your shifter should be straight up and down and centered. Gently tighten the hex bolts but don't tighten them hard - just enough to hold it in place. Push the shifter left and right through neutral making sure it doesn't hit anything it shouldn't be. If it is, loosen the bolt with the square washer and adjust it accordingly, tighten it again. When you go through the gears, do the same thing and adjust with the rectangle washer bolt if it doesn't make it all the way in gear or hits. Tighten down the bolt with the square washer.
31) Now put the seat where you usually drive, thread on the shift ****.
32) Loosen the hex bolt with the round washer. You can now slide the whole assembly forward and back on the brass rails in order to position it where is best suitable for your feeling while driving. Tighten it down.
33) Start the car and keep the clutch in. Let it out slow and make sure that neutral is in fact neutral. Put it in first and see if it catches right. Also make sure you can put it in reverse. Before putting the console plate back on take it for a drive nice and easy and test all the gears.
34) Head home, replace the shifter cover and the plate back on
35) Enjoy!
I did the install in about an hour and fifteen minutes and didn't drop or have to search for anything. Everything lined up perfectly and the car shifts smooth and the shorter throw has a great feel. The shifter works great so far and has already made the car much more enjoyable to drive.
1
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1.jpg">
Bolts
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/bolts.jpg">
1a
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1a.jpg">
2
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/2.jpg">
3
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/3.jpg">
4
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/4.jpg">
5
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/5.jpg">
finished
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/ssfinished.jpg">
Tips for tough places to reach
Here are a few tips for working in tight places where bolts and screw have a tendency of falling out of reach. The first is when removing nuts and bolts. If you unscrew them almost all of the way, then use a tool like the one below and grab onto them and unscrew them the rest of the way, it stays right in the tongs. Helps if you have big hands also.
Putting bolts back in place when they are deep in the car can be a pain and frustrating if you drop one. That is why I use a magnetic tip on the drivers, as well as a wire tie(the kind that might be on bread or holding wires when you just buy something) not a zip tie. Just make a little hook on the end of the tie, put the bolt in it, and squeeze it tight around with your fingers. Put the tip on the head, and the other hand on the tie and glide it in. Just pull the tie off once you get it started. Obviously this is useful anywhere in the car.
grabber tool and in action
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/pickuptool.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/1a.jpg">
Wiretie
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73397/wiretie.jpg">
Links
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/658597.phtml">Tips</a>
<a href="http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/25.pdf">B&M</a>
<a href="http://www.innovativeperformanceproducts.com/B5_Shifter_installation.htm">V&S</a>
