So... how hard is it to replace rear rotors and brake pads if you have never done it before?
09-26-2001, 06:11 AM
#3
it's a great place to start DIY jobs. Kris is right, the piston is the only problem.
Get some spray brake/rotor cleaner to clean them. Remember to torque all the bolts properly. I don't have the #'s handy, except for the lugs, which are 89 ft./lbs.
Which rotors and pads did you get? If you haven't bought them yet, I liked dealing with Adirondack in NY. They have some of the best prices for ATE & Zimmermann rotors and Mintex Red Box pads. (follow link)<ul><li><a href="http://www.germanautoparts.com">http://www.germanautoparts.com</a</li></ul>
Which rotors and pads did you get? If you haven't bought them yet, I liked dealing with Adirondack in NY. They have some of the best prices for ATE & Zimmermann rotors and Mintex Red Box pads. (follow link)<ul><li><a href="http://www.germanautoparts.com">http://www.germanautoparts.com</a</li></ul>
09-26-2001, 06:27 AM
#5
Dunno, but I can tell you exactly how right here...
Jack up car, safely, put on stand. Remove rear tire. On the caliper, there are 2 13mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket via the sliders. Remove, you will have to use a thin wrench to hold the slider from turning (I think it is 14 or 15mm.) Lift the caliper off of the carrier. Use a short wire or bungee to suspend the caliper from the rear spring, DO NOT let it hang on it's rubber hose.
On the carrier, there are 2 17mm bolts, remove them and set the carrier aside. The Rotor should just about fall off, if not, use a rubber mallet to tap it off from the inside.
Put the new rotor on, and run one of the lugs all the way in to hold it in place. Re attach the carrier, (before you do, take a wire brush and clean the area where the pads sit.) Set the pads in their slots.
At this point, crack the bleeder a tiny bit, just enough to let a little fluid escape. (this will prevent the dirty fluid from within the caliper from getting pushed back upstream.)Then right away, using the proper tool, or the lisle tool (I do not reccomend using pliers and C clamp method, it's too easy to damage the dust boot) retrract the piston fully into the caliper using a clockwise and inward motion (turn CW, while pushing inward HARD) Close the bleeder immediately after you are done turning the piston in. (remember that brake fluid will remove paint, be careful, slip a little hose over teh nipple to divert the fluid)
Slip the caliper over the carrier and the pads, making sure that the little springs are both under the caliper..
Re attach the caliper using the new bolts that should have come with your pads.
Once you have both sides done, pump the pedal a few times, and work the E-brake handle also, this to return the piston to it's working position.
On the carrier, there are 2 17mm bolts, remove them and set the carrier aside. The Rotor should just about fall off, if not, use a rubber mallet to tap it off from the inside.
Put the new rotor on, and run one of the lugs all the way in to hold it in place. Re attach the carrier, (before you do, take a wire brush and clean the area where the pads sit.) Set the pads in their slots.
At this point, crack the bleeder a tiny bit, just enough to let a little fluid escape. (this will prevent the dirty fluid from within the caliper from getting pushed back upstream.)Then right away, using the proper tool, or the lisle tool (I do not reccomend using pliers and C clamp method, it's too easy to damage the dust boot) retrract the piston fully into the caliper using a clockwise and inward motion (turn CW, while pushing inward HARD) Close the bleeder immediately after you are done turning the piston in. (remember that brake fluid will remove paint, be careful, slip a little hose over teh nipple to divert the fluid)
Slip the caliper over the carrier and the pads, making sure that the little springs are both under the caliper..
Re attach the caliper using the new bolts that should have come with your pads.
Once you have both sides done, pump the pedal a few times, and work the E-brake handle also, this to return the piston to it's working position.
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09-26-2001, 06:38 AM
#9
I would just get new ones, from what I have heard, there is not a lot of turning room on the rotors.
I have never turned a set, I usually let them get too worn for that...
