Spark plug problem?
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I recently changed from Bosch F7LTCR to NGK BKUR6ET plugs on our 98.5 1.8T (Wett 1 bar chip).
Test drive a few seconds later and it runs great. The next day, idle is rough after cold start for a few seconds (stalled once), but runs fine afterwards. This continues for the next two days, then it won't start after resting for 2 hours. Left it overnight and it starts the next day without much cranking, but runs a little rough and stalls once.
Pull over and change the plugs back to Bosch F7LTCR and it seems to run fine now! I am convinced that it must be the plugs, but I have a hard time imagining why it would be that different with, supposedly, OE plugs for this engine.
These are three pronged plugs, which I did not think needed gapping. However, some on the list recommend reducing the stock gap for chipped cars running ~1bar boost (like ours). If this is the case, how can one properly gap a tri-pronged plug?
Does this seem reasonable? Also the CEL came on and is still on, even w/ the Bosch F7LTCR in there.
Thanks,
Ted
Test drive a few seconds later and it runs great. The next day, idle is rough after cold start for a few seconds (stalled once), but runs fine afterwards. This continues for the next two days, then it won't start after resting for 2 hours. Left it overnight and it starts the next day without much cranking, but runs a little rough and stalls once.
Pull over and change the plugs back to Bosch F7LTCR and it seems to run fine now! I am convinced that it must be the plugs, but I have a hard time imagining why it would be that different with, supposedly, OE plugs for this engine.
These are three pronged plugs, which I did not think needed gapping. However, some on the list recommend reducing the stock gap for chipped cars running ~1bar boost (like ours). If this is the case, how can one properly gap a tri-pronged plug?
Does this seem reasonable? Also the CEL came on and is still on, even w/ the Bosch F7LTCR in there.
Thanks,
Ted
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