Stereo install 99% done....Only problem is it won't work! Who can help me analzye this? With pics!
04-04-2002, 03:53 PM
#16
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I think I understand your problem then:
If I am heariung you right, here's what's going on. There are two types of input that should be going into your new amp:
1) POWER (+) which should be 12VDC which you claim you are pulling from the remote turn-on that comes from the headunit to the stock amp. This should be fine as long as you are reading close to 12VDC hot on it when tested with the multimeter.
POWER (-) which you claim and should be you are grounding to the car via a good solid grounding point. This is fine.
2) Audio. I think this is where the problem is if the new amp actually turns on but you do not hear anything. If you are tapping the lead going from the amp to the subwoofer, that means you are tapping an amplified and probably altered signal. Altered meaning that the signal is not line level (which you need) and that it probably uses a different impedence so that it can efficiently power the sub. What you really need to do is pull (or tap) the signal before it reaches the stock amp. Speaker lines are hard to detect with a multimeter because they work on a totally different standard so to say. You'll need to track down exactly WHICH lead on the harness is the audio tap into the headunit. Or just tap from the headunit itself. Either way, you CANNOT tap an amplified signal and patch it to a line level input for a new amp. The signal might be dirty and may not work.
Let me know if this does the trick or not.
1) POWER (+) which should be 12VDC which you claim you are pulling from the remote turn-on that comes from the headunit to the stock amp. This should be fine as long as you are reading close to 12VDC hot on it when tested with the multimeter.
POWER (-) which you claim and should be you are grounding to the car via a good solid grounding point. This is fine.
2) Audio. I think this is where the problem is if the new amp actually turns on but you do not hear anything. If you are tapping the lead going from the amp to the subwoofer, that means you are tapping an amplified and probably altered signal. Altered meaning that the signal is not line level (which you need) and that it probably uses a different impedence so that it can efficiently power the sub. What you really need to do is pull (or tap) the signal before it reaches the stock amp. Speaker lines are hard to detect with a multimeter because they work on a totally different standard so to say. You'll need to track down exactly WHICH lead on the harness is the audio tap into the headunit. Or just tap from the headunit itself. Either way, you CANNOT tap an amplified signal and patch it to a line level input for a new amp. The signal might be dirty and may not work.
Let me know if this does the trick or not.
04-04-2002, 03:57 PM
#17
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hmmmm....
truth be told, i'm simply following exactly what another guy (a4pat) did to his 2002 last weekend.
i talked to him on the phone and he told me those were the wires he tapped with his line converter and it's working well.
don't you think that i would at least hear *something* though?
I'm looking deeper into this, thanks so much for your thoughts, i'm reading them over and over!
i'll report back in a bit!
p.s. isn't that what a line converter does though? taps amplified speakers outs and turns them into line level amp inputs?
i talked to him on the phone and he told me those were the wires he tapped with his line converter and it's working well.
don't you think that i would at least hear *something* though?
I'm looking deeper into this, thanks so much for your thoughts, i'm reading them over and over!
i'll report back in a bit!
p.s. isn't that what a line converter does though? taps amplified speakers outs and turns them into line level amp inputs?
04-04-2002, 03:59 PM
#18
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i still vote for the "loose connection inside the box itself" bug! ;)
did you solder your joints? or did you use crimp-on quick-connects? if you soldered... maybe you have a cold joint?
all that kicking, screaming, and hitting your stereo equipment may have jarred something loose...
all that kicking, screaming, and hitting your stereo equipment may have jarred something loose...
