Is there any consensus on the best brand water pump for the 2.8 V6 12v?
01-15-2009, 11:59 AM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
were you saying...
that you can get it over tensioned by not pre-tensioning it?
And while I don't have any real Audi shop manuals I do have a current Bentley but that told me to take the tension off the belt the wrong way!!!! Oh well, I think my car is fine so not even sure why I'm trying to figure anything out. I just hate mystery when it comes to mechanical things.
I know when I was doing it I looked up many posts using you user Id so you helped more than you know and I really appreciate all the stuff documented here. Not to mention there is nothing wrong with your writing either =)
And while I don't have any real Audi shop manuals I do have a current Bentley but that told me to take the tension off the belt the wrong way!!!! Oh well, I think my car is fine so not even sure why I'm trying to figure anything out. I just hate mystery when it comes to mechanical things.
I know when I was doing it I looked up many posts using you user Id so you helped more than you know and I really appreciate all the stuff documented here. Not to mention there is nothing wrong with your writing either =)
01-15-2009, 12:50 PM
#22
OK.....
The way the timing belt chapter is organized for the V6 in that book, boarders on trash. The problem with some of these manuals is that they expect you've taken the factory technical classes. There are few mistakes as well, less though with the VAG product ones. They could really take a lesson in techincal writing from Toyota or Mazda. You might check one of their factory tech manuals out if your browsing some place that has them available.
The tensioning procedure should be spelled out in your Bentley, but its mildly cryptic. The timing belt procedure, the way its written out, jumps all over the place.
Yes, by just pulling the pin and not pre-tensioning the belt, it can allow the piston to over extend. Its all relative though,as we're only talking some bearing life. I just figure if someone is going to all the work to DIY one of these, it helps to get the details down as it expands the service life of the repair.
Thanks, I'm glad some of these posts are being utilized.
The tensioning procedure should be spelled out in your Bentley, but its mildly cryptic. The timing belt procedure, the way its written out, jumps all over the place.
Yes, by just pulling the pin and not pre-tensioning the belt, it can allow the piston to over extend. Its all relative though,as we're only talking some bearing life. I just figure if someone is going to all the work to DIY one of these, it helps to get the details down as it expands the service life of the repair.
Thanks, I'm glad some of these posts are being utilized.
01-15-2009, 01:19 PM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I switched from G11 to G12 within 4 months of getting the car -- no issues!
Don't you think that after almost 13 years there'd be an issue? ;-)
Flushing the G11 took over 3 hours. I would not switch a car that had run for years on G11 to G12.
Flushing the G11 took over 3 hours. I would not switch a car that had run for years on G11 to G12.
01-15-2009, 01:29 PM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess I'll go with an OEM pump
I thought Geba was one of the better options, but lately I had read otherwise. I would never get a used or remanufactured w/p.
Thanks for the hint regarding the tensioner!
Thanks for the hint regarding the tensioner!
01-15-2009, 02:35 PM
#26
a comment(factory re-man)....
You might take another look at factory reman units/parts(engine, trans, steering rack, etc..). They are much better quality then aftermarket and in a different league in my view then other rebuilt parts. Most of the time, its only the case that gets saved, the rest is new. For instance, Porsches re-man engines are built to tighter tolerances then the the ones on the assembly line. I find Audi factory re-manufactured steering racks far better then anything on the wholesale or retail rebuilder market. Each to their own though. I prefer new as well when ever possible.
If your going to DIY this job, you might consider picking up, rent, or borrow a copy of the Bentley B5 A4 manual just for the torque specs.
Regards
If your going to DIY this job, you might consider picking up, rent, or borrow a copy of the Bentley B5 A4 manual just for the torque specs.
Regards
01-15-2009, 02:51 PM
#27
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
agree, just for the torque specs. Otherwise I'd have used it to start a fire long ago =)
On a side note...with the CD version anyone know if they encrypt the disks and make it a PITA to for instance have multiple copies on all of the desktops and laptops I have and use at home? The nice thing about the book is that it is hard to lose an if it gets scratched up it still works the same. I'd really like to have the CD in addition so I can search with key words but don't want to mess with encryption. Not that I can't break it I just resolved not to do that...for lots of reasons...
01-15-2009, 03:37 PM
#29
thanks....
Just about lost my drink after reading that one. : ) Yep, they don't exactly write those manuals in the most logical of formats, but its the only real game in town for Audi/VW. The cd rom versions are nice(somewhat better in content). I have the one for the tt. You can search DTC's and get factory tsbs off it. Exceedingly effective and powerful as a diagnostic tool, especially along with a VAG-Com. They are definitely encrypted.
I hate to say this, but the next go round, I'd opt out for the cd rom just to get the factory tsbs. Loved getting Porsche's when they were publishing them.
I hate to say this, but the next go round, I'd opt out for the cd rom just to get the factory tsbs. Loved getting Porsche's when they were publishing them.