Tuning out the EGR with vag com after egr delete? (96 12v)
#11
Yes, I have I seen the EGR clog up over time and generally needs to have the pipes cleaned out. On EGR equipped engines, they generally run smoother after cleaning out the EGR pipe to make it work again. When they're clogged is when you get engine codes obviously, but you sometimes get pinging from the engine, due to high internal combustion temps from a non-functioning EGR, even with 93 octane fuel.
#12
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I still don't see how there is ever going to be any negative pressure between the throttle body and air filter. Were talking a two hundred some horsepower naturally aspirated engine here, with a more than adequate air filter. The air filter would need to be restrictive for negative pressure to become present in the intact tracting.
Your hard pressed to find negative pressure between the turbo inlet and air filter in well designed +500hp forced induction setups.
So I'm just having a hard time understanding how unplugging a hose that atmospheric pressure all the time tricks the EGR system into only opening during test mode. I don't want to beat a dead horse here, I'm just saying...
I understand the principles of the EGR system and reducing combustion chamber temperature and reducing emissions. My reason for wanting to eliminate it more revolves around the tendency for this particular cars EGR system seemingly always tending to clog up and have other problems. The benefits don't seem to outweigh the cons to me.
I wasn't expecting a "rather pull my teeth" than remove the EGR valve scenario though. I love this car, but it's a whole different world than the GM stuff I'm accustomed to where you can tune whatever you want with 5+ different tuning software options that are on the market, not to mention with tuners everywhere you look.
I suppose I'll leave the EGR system fully operational on my freshened up engine with my PCV oil separator installed, maybe that will help the EGR passages from clogging.
While I didn't get exactly what I was looking for, thanks for responding guys. Seems like no one want's to have a conversation about these old v6s anymore.
Your hard pressed to find negative pressure between the turbo inlet and air filter in well designed +500hp forced induction setups.
So I'm just having a hard time understanding how unplugging a hose that atmospheric pressure all the time tricks the EGR system into only opening during test mode. I don't want to beat a dead horse here, I'm just saying...
I understand the principles of the EGR system and reducing combustion chamber temperature and reducing emissions. My reason for wanting to eliminate it more revolves around the tendency for this particular cars EGR system seemingly always tending to clog up and have other problems. The benefits don't seem to outweigh the cons to me.
I wasn't expecting a "rather pull my teeth" than remove the EGR valve scenario though. I love this car, but it's a whole different world than the GM stuff I'm accustomed to where you can tune whatever you want with 5+ different tuning software options that are on the market, not to mention with tuners everywhere you look.
I suppose I'll leave the EGR system fully operational on my freshened up engine with my PCV oil separator installed, maybe that will help the EGR passages from clogging.
While I didn't get exactly what I was looking for, thanks for responding guys. Seems like no one want's to have a conversation about these old v6s anymore.
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