Pscheoverdrive

Soooo...
My car now starts, moves and boosts. The new throttle body aligned properly, and after some more investigation, it turns out my hot side FMIC pipe wasn't entirely sealed against the turbo (wrangling in the DV to its new home must've loosened it).

But, we've still got issues. When the car is warmed up, there are no problems. But, when it's cold, it acts up quite a bit... Same deal as before: it'll idle, but when I step on the gas, there's hesitation and then it almost (or does) stall. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the car is supposed to idle a little higher before warm? Right now my car's idling at 800, hot or cold. The other thing is that when it's having a hard time idling, the car will give itself gas and rev a little. Weird. Any leads on this?

I got out on the road and took it around slowly, then eventually mustered up the confidence to do some pulls, and then do some highway driving. I got a few logs, and most look like the following pull:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/97664/actual_vs_requested.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/97664/n75_duty_cycle.jpg">

I need to go back and read over my wideband's instruction manual to re-calibrate the sucker, but group 032 logged 4.7% at idle and 14.1% p.throttle. Is it safe to assume the drop in pressure is due to my FMIC? Throttle response is much worse than it was before. Rev matching is much more difficult. Is this something common to BT cars? No, right? Seems to me like something is making it difficult for my car to get air. The FMIC isn't responsible for this - it was on the car w/the stock turbo. I'm using an AEM Dryflow paper cone filter, if you're wondering.


I also need some part numbers...
Does anybody know the size, or PN for #21 here:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/97664/alternator_assy.jpg">
And is there a PN for the fuel line going from the bottom of the fuel filter to the fuel pump? I was too rough with it when I tightened the banjo bolt back on the filter, and it leaks some. - Edit: Ordered!
Lastly, does anyone have the PN for the washer fluid pump grommet? - Edit: Got it!

And finally... Probably not in AW's conservative tastes, but...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/97664/n5741717_41188237_5585.jpg">

WJM

did you change the washers on the banjo bolt connection?

Pscheoverdrive

Yes, I did. But, the line itself is cracked a bit, right past the end of the fitting.

Joey T

When it fails it may not set a code, but will cause all the issues of which you complain.

Except the leaking fuel line.

Pscheoverdrive

cars, and if you think I should replace it, I will. But, it starts cold, and then then moves to center at about the same rate it always has.

Joey T

one is the gauge, the other is for the ECU. So you can have a failure on one side and not the other. I think you can look at coolant temp with a VAG-COM and see what the ECU, not the dash, sees.

Pscheoverdrive

Trying to narrow down everything... It's about to come down to a the tune.

Joey T

I ran the same setup on the Micamobile and had the same issues, which turned out to be that the larger MAF was not what the software needed.

Pscheoverdrive

they changed for the tune. Going to double-check each new component and see what else they messed with. Until then, I'm making sure everything on my end is perfect.

But, Steve did state in an e-mail that I'd need the S4 MAF housing with the stock sensor. However, originally he told me I'd need the TT MAF housing, or the one from a VR6. I still have the e-mails.