Christian J. Long

Here's a quick FAQ I wrote on the V1 installation, if you guys see anything that need correcting, let me know before I submit it to Jason for the FAQ section.<p>V1/radar detector hard wiring instructions<p>You will be using the #27 rear wiper fuse slot to power the V1. If you have a wagon, this slot will be filled, and you will have to use another (if you find another power source, let me know so that I can add it to my FAQ). The #27 fuse slot is empty, and if you look into it, you will see the contact for the positive power supply. You will be using the direct wire power adapter that came with V1 to wire your V1. Attach a spade connector to the end of the positive wire of the direct wire power adapter, and plug that into the #27 fuse slot (make sure you plug it into the side of the fuse slot that has the positive contact in it). Attach a O-ring type connector to the end of the ground wire of the direct wire power adapter. Now find a place to attach the V1 ground. I used the bolt that is just below the fuse panel.<p>Once you have your power and ground wires set up, you now need to mount the direct wire power adapter. The direct wire power adapter comes with some velcro for mounting. I mounted the direct wire power adapter just above the fuse panel, on a flat aluminum surface that faces towards the driver.<p>Now you can run the V1 straight power cord from the direct wire power adapter up through the A pillar, and along the top edge of the windshield. I mounted my V1 just left of my rear view mirror. If you also choose to mount your V1 at the top of your windshield, you will run the power cord up the A pillar, and across the top of the windshield. One problem that you will run across is that the wire will not stay up under the headliner due to the gap between the headliner and windshield being too large. To remedy this, I wrapped some electrical tape loosely, sticky side out, at several locations of the wire. The tape on the wire will make the wire thinker at that spot, so it will not fall out of the headliner. Having the sticky side out will also help keep the wire in the headliner.<p>Now you are ready to enjoy the feeling of an Audi above 65mph without the worry of those pesky points on your license.<p>Side note: When I first installed my V1 in my cigarette lighter, I found that whenever I used the horn or windshield washers, the V1 would make a siren noise. This is do to the power drain on the fuse would confuse the V1. Once I hard wired my V1 to it's own fuse, the problem ended.<p>Christian J. Long

Don Kuhl

Looks great. I just did the exect same thing with my V1. The only addition I would reccommend is how you get the wire up through the a-pillar. I wrapped a wash cloth around the end of a screw driver and very carefully stuffed the wire in behind the pillar. Worked great. I know you're supposed to be able to just pop the pillar's cover out, but I broke one of these on an old car of mine trying to do this.<p>Don Kuhl

Ray Calvo

Christian, nice writeup. Couple of ideas:<p>1) I have an Avant; as you noticed, could find no spare socket. I usewd wah I will term a "piggy-back" fuse unit - this p;ugs into a std fuse socket, then has one circuit that operates just like original, with a fuse. Also has a parallel circuit with it's own fuse and power output lead for use on new accessory. Only thing to do was to find which side of the fuse connection is the "hot" side, and plug in adapter so that its common power tap-off side uses the "hot" power.<p>2) When running power lead up the "A" pillar, go alongthe door side, between the "A" pillar and the rubber weatherstrip. Makes installation easy. At top of "A" pillar stuff wire in along top of "A" pillar trim piece piece toward the windshield.<p>3) I didn't use the V1 power adapter; I cut off plug and ran wires directly to ground and hot lead. Your way might be better; those leads are awful thin for soldering.<p>4) At point where I wanted to have wire stop following windshield and hang loose for connection to detector, I found had to securely hold wire at this point. I don't think electrical tape will hold well or for too long (my experience is that this stuff loosens over time). I used a dab of clear weatherstrip compound called "GOOP" to hold the wire in place at this point. <br>

Christian J. Long

Lots of people told me to just pull the A pillar off, and stuff it behind there. I tried and tried and couldn't get it off, so I just ran it up the weather stripping on the A pillar, and then brought it to the windshield like Ray Calvo described.<p>Christian

Steve Mac

I also had a problem keeping the wire from sagging down, but didn't want to use adhesive to keep it in place. What I did was to slit several pieces of flexible PVC tubing (size 1/4 x 3/8 i.d/o.d -Tygon is one brand), insert the wire into the tubing and tuck the tubing into the gap between the headliner and the windshield. This holds it up firmly without the use of tape or adhesive and allows both wire and tubing to be removed without a trace when it's time for the new S4.<p>Steve

gary

any one know how to clear fail safe mode from car ?

Jon C

I could not locate a spare switched fuse so have put theproject on hold but you're solution sounds good. Thanks. regards, Jon

Fred Kern

The A-pillar does come off. There are three (I believe) spring clips holding it to the pillar. Pull it off - straight toward the center of the car. <p>I installed my V1 by fabricating a bracket that mounts to the rear view mirror post and locates the V1 ahead of and below the mirror I counter-drilled the mirror post and added an RJ-11 connector just in front of the interior lamp so I don't have to pull all of the wiring out if I have to remove the bracket.

Ray Calvo

I just saw them in K-Mart; they're made by &quot;LittleFuse&quot;

Ray Calvo

More on my comments: used fuse # 27 (rear wiper) on Avant