Well I fixed my fuel line that I messed up yesterday when modding like a retard.
#1
Well I fixed my fuel line that I messed up yesterday when modding like a retard.
After playing around with the section of line I hit with the grinder by mistake, I was finally able to find a little pinhole leak. I missed breaking the line wide open by a few thousanths of an inch. I dremeled the line, removed the damaged section, and replaced it with a fuel hose and clamps. I made sure the fuel had drained out first and cut in such a way as to avoid particles getting into the line. It was actually pretty easy and not as big a deal as I was thinking last night. Thanks RKA for the suggestion. The car runs fine. As you can see, the line hose is very unobtrusive. Not as good as an entire new line, but I had to do something for now. I'll probably just leave it.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59187/fuell_line_splice.jpg">
As for the control arms, aside from my one obvious mistake they went in no problem. I'm a bit pissed though because their replacement didn't solve my clunking problem. I've replaced my brake pads, tie rod ends, and now all 4 control arms and yet my passenger side still makes a metal on metal clunk at every bump. Oh well back to the drawing board. At least now my car is a bit tighter and it looks nice.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59187/passenger_side_suspension_renewed.jpg">
I'm at a loss for what to do next. Sway bar links maybe? I guess I'll give all the undercariage bolts another go round to tighten everything. I can feel the clank through the wheel, like something is slightly moving, but cannot figure it out. The car drives fine and staight otherwise. I'm kind of kicking myself for not taking apart the spring strut and checking to see if the top nut had come loose.
Oh, and I've changed my mind after all the crap I had to do today. I will not be recommending cutting the bolt. I'll stick with dropping the subframe. I knew this was the proper way to remove the bolt, but I was trying to fine an easier, quicker way. That's what I get for rushing and taking shortcuts I guess.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59187/fuell_line_splice.jpg">
As for the control arms, aside from my one obvious mistake they went in no problem. I'm a bit pissed though because their replacement didn't solve my clunking problem. I've replaced my brake pads, tie rod ends, and now all 4 control arms and yet my passenger side still makes a metal on metal clunk at every bump. Oh well back to the drawing board. At least now my car is a bit tighter and it looks nice.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59187/passenger_side_suspension_renewed.jpg">
I'm at a loss for what to do next. Sway bar links maybe? I guess I'll give all the undercariage bolts another go round to tighten everything. I can feel the clank through the wheel, like something is slightly moving, but cannot figure it out. The car drives fine and staight otherwise. I'm kind of kicking myself for not taking apart the spring strut and checking to see if the top nut had come loose.
Oh, and I've changed my mind after all the crap I had to do today. I will not be recommending cutting the bolt. I'll stick with dropping the subframe. I knew this was the proper way to remove the bolt, but I was trying to fine an easier, quicker way. That's what I get for rushing and taking shortcuts I guess.
#2
Re: Well I fixed my fuel line that I messed up yesterday when modding like a retard.
Do you or do you ever plan to track your car? I doubt that your rubber line fix will pass tech. they put a steel line in from the factory for a reason.
#3
If you hear the noise at every bump, and you have replaced all control arms, check your strut nut...
I have had two occurences on A4s where the upper strut nut was loose, and made an anoying rattling sound over every bump.
You can check it without removing the whole strut. Jack the car up in the air, and then grab on to the wheel. Lift the wheel up and down , at a rapid pace. Since you will be compressing the spring, you won't be able to move the wheel very much, but, you should be able to hear the rattle from there.
You may need a new washer at the top of the strut rod, under the mounting plate. Check the shoulder on the strut rod for signs of mushrooming.
Hope this helps.
You can check it without removing the whole strut. Jack the car up in the air, and then grab on to the wheel. Lift the wheel up and down , at a rapid pace. Since you will be compressing the spring, you won't be able to move the wheel very much, but, you should be able to hear the rattle from there.
You may need a new washer at the top of the strut rod, under the mounting plate. Check the shoulder on the strut rod for signs of mushrooming.
Hope this helps.
#4
I doubt I'll ever track it,
I specifically bought fuel line hose, it's not vaccuum hose. But I understand your point. Trust me, I don't like half assed fixes (although that may not be apparent by my bolt cutting disaster). It really does seem to be ok, but I'll probably at least look into getting an entire new line. Otherwise I'll always have that annoying monkey telling me about this little bandaid. The shame, the horror......
#5
My machanic specifically said that metal to metal clunking like that would be sway bar drop links...
And since you have nothing else to try... might as well go for it.
Do you hear the clunking when pushing the car down on that wheel? If you do, it may also be your shock being slightly twisted. That is what happened on my brother's bimmer.
Do you hear the clunking when pushing the car down on that wheel? If you do, it may also be your shock being slightly twisted. That is what happened on my brother's bimmer.
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#8
Yes, a "clank" really.
The control arms have definately made an improvement, and the clank is less. I notice it only at slow speeds over sharp bumps. It's weired, because today driving into work it was completely gone and the car felt great. Maybe the suspension had to settle in a bit. I just don't know.
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