what brake pads should I get that offer good track performance but are still nice for daily driving?
#22
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They did extremely well (as you know), but it is time to replace them and I'm looking into options.
#24
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worst case scenerio I pick up a set of 4 pagid orange pads for the stock calipers. Where did you pick those up btw?
For some reason though I feel I'll fare a lil better than you... cuz I have a hunch I'm not gonna go as crazy into the corners as you do =P
Do you commute to and from the events with your race pads on? (like pocono) or do you bed them, etc when you get there.
Thanks,
For some reason though I feel I'll fare a lil better than you... cuz I have a hunch I'm not gonna go as crazy into the corners as you do =P
Do you commute to and from the events with your race pads on? (like pocono) or do you bed them, etc when you get there.
Thanks,
#25
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Even the instructor asked what I did to the brakes as he was amazed. In addition to the pads, I also replaced fluid with Motul600, and got stainless steel lines all around. Maybe the A8 was still running stock fluid or stock lines?
Now granted, that was at Brainerd International Raceway, which might be easier on brakes than Mid-O.
Now granted, that was at Brainerd International Raceway, which might be easier on brakes than Mid-O.
#27
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or the car anymore...
But they squeeled like a MF on the street...at this point I realised that I needed a dedicated set of high performance pads for the track...
But they squeeled like a MF on the street...at this point I realised that I needed a dedicated set of high performance pads for the track...
#28
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What I'm saying is I have them on my car still cause I've been too lazy to swap them out.. been usin them on the street for a month with minimal noise. (Compared to Mintex C-Tech)
:-D I'm using the DS2500s as my dedicated track pad... I'm hoping my poor stock rotors will last longer with them than the they would with the DS3000s. I just haven't put my stock street pads back in yet.
:-D I'm using the DS2500s as my dedicated track pad... I'm hoping my poor stock rotors will last longer with them than the they would with the DS3000s. I just haven't put my stock street pads back in yet.
#29
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and put them back in for the street.
This set of Pagid Oranges came from StopTech.
I have found cheaper prices at: <a href="http://www.Rennstore.com">RennStore</a> If you buy 2 sets of pads, they'll send you "free" Motul RBF 600 (that's what I used, often).
I got my Hawk HP+ (rear track pads, some street use) from <a href="http://www.Essexparts.com">EssexParts</a>, but <a href="http://www.raceshopper.com">RaceShopper</a> has better prices. You can also try <a href="http://www.importrp.com">Import Replacement Parts</a> which has great prices on my street pads (Pagid Blacks 4-2-1) for my Stoptechs.
I would recommend the Hawk HT10s, Ferodo DS3000, or Pagid Blacks for up front, if you have a heavy brake foot. If not, go with Pagid Orange or Hawk Blues (9012). Anything equal or less bite in the rear, accordingly.
I plan to put the HT10s in my StopTechs next, and Hawk Blues in the rears.
I drove to MidOhio and back with my track pads in. heck, they're still in and I have my next event at Pocono North on 7/1. Then, I'll put the stockers back in.
I personally like having them bed-in the day before. I run out of time, if I do it at the track.
This set of Pagid Oranges came from StopTech.
I have found cheaper prices at: <a href="http://www.Rennstore.com">RennStore</a> If you buy 2 sets of pads, they'll send you "free" Motul RBF 600 (that's what I used, often).
I got my Hawk HP+ (rear track pads, some street use) from <a href="http://www.Essexparts.com">EssexParts</a>, but <a href="http://www.raceshopper.com">RaceShopper</a> has better prices. You can also try <a href="http://www.importrp.com">Import Replacement Parts</a> which has great prices on my street pads (Pagid Blacks 4-2-1) for my Stoptechs.
I would recommend the Hawk HT10s, Ferodo DS3000, or Pagid Blacks for up front, if you have a heavy brake foot. If not, go with Pagid Orange or Hawk Blues (9012). Anything equal or less bite in the rear, accordingly.
I plan to put the HT10s in my StopTechs next, and Hawk Blues in the rears.
I drove to MidOhio and back with my track pads in. heck, they're still in and I have my next event at Pocono North on 7/1. Then, I'll put the stockers back in.
I personally like having them bed-in the day before. I run out of time, if I do it at the track.
#30
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better on the track.
I would recommend a light track pad to start out with, something in the Pagid Blues, Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk HP+ range. These are pads that you can "safely" drive to the track and probably not experience pad fade (different than fluid boil fade) at a beginner/intermediate level. You will appreciate your brakes more with this type of pad for the track.
At some point, maybe 3-5 events, you'll find that these aren't enough pad for you. Guess what, they'll be practically at half or below anyway at this time. perfect timing to replace and keep them as spares in your track box of crap.
This is when you step up to something in the family of Pagid Orange (RS 4-4), Hawk Blues (9012) range. You'll find that you need to get some heat into these pads for them to work. If you drive to the track with these pads in, you need to be a bit careful. When I drive to the track with my Pagid Oranges in, I test the brakes before taking an on-/off-ramp. You'll find that you won't pad fade this type of pad on the track. They're generally rotor friendly in their happy temp range. These pads are a bit more $ than the prior family of pads, that some people feel comfortable driving on the street as performance pads.
Now comes the big boys. These are the pads that you should be putting in when you get to the track. Granted, a good driver will feel fine driving these pads to the track, but you better be careful when it's cold and raining. I recommend the Hawk HT10s, Ferodo DS3000, or Pagid Blacks (RS 14). These have a much higher heat range and will benefit those of us who brake way late and hard, namely, on the bigger tracks when you're reaching speeds in the 100-140 MPH range and braking hard to make a turn, especially if it's a place like Watkins Glen when you have more than one of these braking zones on the track. These types of pads are generally not nice to rotors. But, if you're driving in this catagory, you don't give a flying rat's ***. You believe in using up the equipment and leaving nothing behind. I plan to use Hawk HT10s next in my StopTechs up front.
See my post below for <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2089707.phtml">places to buy pads</a>.
*I also recommend trying to use your OEM pads for your first event. This way, you'll experience brake fade (pads) and maybe even fluid boil, especially if you're using OEM stuff or something that hasn' been flushed for awhile. Now, this is assuming you have an instructor in the car and you're not going to drive like a bonehead with less brakes. A simple cool down lap, maybe add a pit-in for a new spot in the cars on track and you're back in business. You could even bring track pads with you and see how the OEMs do during your first session (and second?), and change them over during the lunch break.
*at your own risk.
I would recommend a light track pad to start out with, something in the Pagid Blues, Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk HP+ range. These are pads that you can "safely" drive to the track and probably not experience pad fade (different than fluid boil fade) at a beginner/intermediate level. You will appreciate your brakes more with this type of pad for the track.
At some point, maybe 3-5 events, you'll find that these aren't enough pad for you. Guess what, they'll be practically at half or below anyway at this time. perfect timing to replace and keep them as spares in your track box of crap.
This is when you step up to something in the family of Pagid Orange (RS 4-4), Hawk Blues (9012) range. You'll find that you need to get some heat into these pads for them to work. If you drive to the track with these pads in, you need to be a bit careful. When I drive to the track with my Pagid Oranges in, I test the brakes before taking an on-/off-ramp. You'll find that you won't pad fade this type of pad on the track. They're generally rotor friendly in their happy temp range. These pads are a bit more $ than the prior family of pads, that some people feel comfortable driving on the street as performance pads.
Now comes the big boys. These are the pads that you should be putting in when you get to the track. Granted, a good driver will feel fine driving these pads to the track, but you better be careful when it's cold and raining. I recommend the Hawk HT10s, Ferodo DS3000, or Pagid Blacks (RS 14). These have a much higher heat range and will benefit those of us who brake way late and hard, namely, on the bigger tracks when you're reaching speeds in the 100-140 MPH range and braking hard to make a turn, especially if it's a place like Watkins Glen when you have more than one of these braking zones on the track. These types of pads are generally not nice to rotors. But, if you're driving in this catagory, you don't give a flying rat's ***. You believe in using up the equipment and leaving nothing behind. I plan to use Hawk HT10s next in my StopTechs up front.
See my post below for <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2089707.phtml">places to buy pads</a>.
*I also recommend trying to use your OEM pads for your first event. This way, you'll experience brake fade (pads) and maybe even fluid boil, especially if you're using OEM stuff or something that hasn' been flushed for awhile. Now, this is assuming you have an instructor in the car and you're not going to drive like a bonehead with less brakes. A simple cool down lap, maybe add a pit-in for a new spot in the cars on track and you're back in business. You could even bring track pads with you and see how the OEMs do during your first session (and second?), and change them over during the lunch break.
*at your own risk.