wind noise from driver's door...?
#1
wind noise from driver's door...?
Anyone know how to minimize the wind noise from the driver's door? My 99.5 2.8Q used to only produce this wind noise above 80 mph. Now it starts around 35mph and it's louder. I thought I remember hearing something about an adjustment somewhere in the door to fix this. Does anyone know how to do this?
Thanks. -Wendy
Thanks. -Wendy
#5
I copied this from someones post a while back, I forget who, but here u go
**Oh ya i don't have where the FAQ was pointing to either** Good luck.
I had a wind noise problem which my dealer was successful in eliminating by realigning the (driver's) door at about 15K miles, but it started to return as I approached 50K miles. I took it back, and this time the REALLY screwed it up. I had to SLAM the door to close it. I took it back and they fooled around with it for a few hours, but it still had a completely different feel than the rest of the doors. The dealer went so far as to suggest that I open the windows to close the door.
I finally left in frustration and decided to fix it myself. I did get one piece of useful information from the dealer. To test the seal, close the door with a dollar bill over the
window frame. Pull on the dollar bill - it should be snug, but you should be able to pull it out without tearing the bill.
Try this in several places, and compare your noisy door to one that is properly aligned. Once you find where the seal is too loose, you can point this out to your dealer, or you can try to
align the window frame yourself (see below).
You will have to remove the door panel - see FAQ. The window frame is attached to the door at four points with T-45 (TORX) bolts. There are guide pins above the upper bolts so these points can only be adjusted in the up/down direction. The lower bolts allow for both up/down and in/out adjustment. Adjusting the lower corner(s) of the frame outward will increase pressure on the seals at the top of the window frame. Only a very small
adjustment should be required, and I recommend loosening only two bolts at a time. In my case, since the frame was so far out of adjustment (after the dealer messed it up), it took considerable trial and error to get it adjusted properly. It was easy to get the proper closing force, but it was difficult to get the outer seal to seal uniformly. It tended to fold outward at the upper corner.
Eventually my perseverance paid off, and I got the door/window frame back to its original alignment (or at least very close).
I had a wind noise problem which my dealer was successful in eliminating by realigning the (driver's) door at about 15K miles, but it started to return as I approached 50K miles. I took it back, and this time the REALLY screwed it up. I had to SLAM the door to close it. I took it back and they fooled around with it for a few hours, but it still had a completely different feel than the rest of the doors. The dealer went so far as to suggest that I open the windows to close the door.
I finally left in frustration and decided to fix it myself. I did get one piece of useful information from the dealer. To test the seal, close the door with a dollar bill over the
window frame. Pull on the dollar bill - it should be snug, but you should be able to pull it out without tearing the bill.
Try this in several places, and compare your noisy door to one that is properly aligned. Once you find where the seal is too loose, you can point this out to your dealer, or you can try to
align the window frame yourself (see below).
You will have to remove the door panel - see FAQ. The window frame is attached to the door at four points with T-45 (TORX) bolts. There are guide pins above the upper bolts so these points can only be adjusted in the up/down direction. The lower bolts allow for both up/down and in/out adjustment. Adjusting the lower corner(s) of the frame outward will increase pressure on the seals at the top of the window frame. Only a very small
adjustment should be required, and I recommend loosening only two bolts at a time. In my case, since the frame was so far out of adjustment (after the dealer messed it up), it took considerable trial and error to get it adjusted properly. It was easy to get the proper closing force, but it was difficult to get the outer seal to seal uniformly. It tended to fold outward at the upper corner.
Eventually my perseverance paid off, and I got the door/window frame back to its original alignment (or at least very close).
#6
Here is a Bizzare/Risky Fix I was told about, but it helped...
I am not recommending anyone try this, just sharing my own experience.
1.)I was told to lower my window all the way down.
2.) Then open the door and "gently bend the window frame in toward the car.
3.) Try only a couple of milimeters.
I emphasize gently, because this whole thought scared the crap out of me. However, the tip came from David Jones in Colorado and he is a big Audi guru, so I tried it and it definetly helped.
Make sure window is ALL THE WAY DOWN, or you may break it.
Good Luck
98.5 1.8TQMS
MTM Stage I
1.)I was told to lower my window all the way down.
2.) Then open the door and "gently bend the window frame in toward the car.
3.) Try only a couple of milimeters.
I emphasize gently, because this whole thought scared the crap out of me. However, the tip came from David Jones in Colorado and he is a big Audi guru, so I tried it and it definetly helped.
Make sure window is ALL THE WAY DOWN, or you may break it.
Good Luck
98.5 1.8TQMS
MTM Stage I
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