you guys recommend that battery thingy when getting an amp? some sort of extra power supply right?
07-30-2001, 04:13 PM
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Only if you are running "serious" power or have many gizmos draining the cars power.
Capacitors (caps) are designed to store power between bass strikes so that the amplifier can always draw maximum power. If you run a small amp then you will never exceed the cars existing supply so dont worry.
07-30-2001, 04:25 PM
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cool, if I ran and eq amp for the mid and highs and an extra one for subs(classD) 1000w...
is it a good idea to get one? or when you say serious you mean like window breaking serious?
07-30-2001, 04:26 PM
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depends...
on a few things:
how big the alternator is in the A4 (someone know?)
how big your amp is
what kind of music you listen to and at what volumes
how strong the battery is
example: 88 dodge with 90A alternator and a Interstate MegaTron battery. PPI PC650 (50x6) amp running 50x4 and 100x2 with the 100x2 to 2 JL 10w4's. My car would hit 135dB on an AudioControl RTA and have MINIMAL problems with lights fading during heavy bass hits or low voltages.
This was with the car parked and running with no A/C. When your driving, your pushing more juice into the battery but you have to factor something like A/C and power used to move the car.
Now, I don't know how many amps the Audi alt is (I hope it's at least 80A+) nor do I know a lot about the factory battery. I also can't say how much I know about what kind of juice you want to run.
The cap primarily gets used during heavy impact moments where the amp spikes with its power load and the current charged in the cap can compensate, instead of the battery itself.
For most general systems, caps aren't necessary. Putting in a high current alternator (like 120A+) and a good sealed battery (like an Optima Red top for something inexpensive, or a Stinger for somethin expensive) are more then enough, and most of the time, if the alternator isn't even necessary.
Too much depends on what kind of amps you want to put in the car.
how big the alternator is in the A4 (someone know?)
how big your amp is
what kind of music you listen to and at what volumes
how strong the battery is
example: 88 dodge with 90A alternator and a Interstate MegaTron battery. PPI PC650 (50x6) amp running 50x4 and 100x2 with the 100x2 to 2 JL 10w4's. My car would hit 135dB on an AudioControl RTA and have MINIMAL problems with lights fading during heavy bass hits or low voltages.
This was with the car parked and running with no A/C. When your driving, your pushing more juice into the battery but you have to factor something like A/C and power used to move the car.
Now, I don't know how many amps the Audi alt is (I hope it's at least 80A+) nor do I know a lot about the factory battery. I also can't say how much I know about what kind of juice you want to run.
The cap primarily gets used during heavy impact moments where the amp spikes with its power load and the current charged in the cap can compensate, instead of the battery itself.
For most general systems, caps aren't necessary. Putting in a high current alternator (like 120A+) and a good sealed battery (like an Optima Red top for something inexpensive, or a Stinger for somethin expensive) are more then enough, and most of the time, if the alternator isn't even necessary.
Too much depends on what kind of amps you want to put in the car.
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07-30-2001, 04:27 PM
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Thats serious power, go for a 1 farad cap with that kind of setup. (more)
What exactly do you mean by an "eq amp"?
Also be sure when you talk amp power you are looking at RMS power not peak power. Rule of thumb: If the manufacturer doesnt differentiate then its max power.
The difference is this: Max power is the power that the amp "can" put out under perfect conditions, ie. temperature, voltage etc. RMS is the standard power that an amp can run continuiousily under a variety of conditions.
Also be sure when you talk amp power you are looking at RMS power not peak power. Rule of thumb: If the manufacturer doesnt differentiate then its max power.
The difference is this: Max power is the power that the amp "can" put out under perfect conditions, ie. temperature, voltage etc. RMS is the standard power that an amp can run continuiousily under a variety of conditions.
