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1.8t very little power

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Old 11-20-2010, 09:28 AM
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Default 1.8t very little power

My boys have a 1.8t B6 A4 with 80,000 miles. recently they took it to a friend of a friend who knew a guy that was fantastic at working on Audi's and did it cheap. It had an oil leak. Other than that, everything was good.


SO, after having the car for month, and replacing turbo with a k04, new coils, plugs, timing chain, puck valve, mass air sensor and countless dollars we have the car back. And for all of that, the car will now go from zero to 60 in a blazing 19 seconds flat. And that is going down a bit of a hill at that.

What I have done since we have it back: Replaced the puck valve, vacuum jet and crankcase breather valve to solve the slow idle problem. The puck and the crankcase breather valves were toast. But they did not seem to be clogged up with any gunk. Car idles great now. Although, it does not start easily.

I pulled all the plugs and verified they are correct and look good. NGK pfr6q. The coils all work, at least at idle. I know this by unplugging the coil wire while engine running to verify it starts misfiring.

I unhooked the MAF sensor cable and drove it to see if it ran better with it unplugged and it did not. ran exactly the same with it plugged in.

I can hear the turbo spool up but there just isn't any power. it will go to redline in the first three gears.

I'm sorry i don't have a vag at the moment although I will be purchasing one.

Any Ideas? N75 valve?

thanks in advance
Old 11-20-2010, 11:31 AM
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so after reading more about he N75 valve I went out to poke around on it and found that after they installed the new k04 turbo and the red apr turbo inlet hose they did not put a hose clamp on the part of the n75 that goes into the turbo inlet. After i put a clamp on the car started right up, normally it takes several times to get it to start.

It gets worse.

So it took the car for a ride to see if had power now. My Check Engine Light was off and stayed off during the trip. It didn't seem to have anymore power than before so i thought maybe the ECU needed a little drive time to figure things out again. Then as i was turning right after a rolling stop to enter the highway the car made a sound like a belt flapping against something lost all power and i coasted to a stop. As i try to start the car none of the belts spin but the starter is spinning. I opened the top two keepers to the timing belt cover so i could look in to see what i figured was a broken belt but the belt seems to be intact.

again, starter motor spins but the engine doesn't. Almost like there are no teeth for the starter motor to engage with.

any ideas?

thanks in advance
Old 11-20-2010, 12:11 PM
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Youch... I hate to say it, but if it went to somebody for a month and it comes back with tons of new parts yet doesn't run right, you have the wrong guy. Its a fairly complex car (though that complexity can be reduced a lot).. There's a ton of vac lines, and they all have to be working for things to run right. Sounds like a boost leak somewhere. When the K04 was put in, did it also get the right injectors and software too? If just the turbo, it will run just like stock. Signs of leaking lines are oil on either side of the motor - I had 3 hoses fail (I bought the car new, now has just over 100k on it). Oil leak can also be the valve cover gasket - just changed mine last week. I had various small things going wrong, and took most it apart from the long block and found leaking gaskets, split lines and failed o-rings... Fixed all that and it runs like new (well, better actually as its got a big turbo on it too)..

Thinking again, my bet is timing belt is installed wrong, and one of the cams is off a tooth. Check the install - just take the cover off, set at tdc and look at the marks, or take it to a different mechanic.

Last edited by Spinnetti; 11-20-2010 at 12:13 PM.
Old 11-20-2010, 02:42 PM
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UPDATE: I have codes.

Prior to my last trip today I took the negative cable off of the battery hoping to reset the codes and check engine light. If it works that way, then the 4 codes i received are from my last trip.

1. P0300: Multiple Cylinder Misfire
2. P0342: Camshaft position Sensor A - Bank 1 Circuit Low Input
3. P0102: MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
4. P0234: Engine Over Boost Condition

I am hoping that it is just a wild coincidence that the starter motor is spinning but not spinning the engine.

Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Old 11-20-2010, 05:54 PM
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for the k04 to run properly, you need to upgrade the injectors along with the k04 software from someone like giac, revo, apr, etc etc.
Old 11-21-2010, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Diztek
for the k04 to run properly, you need to upgrade the injectors along with the k04 software from someone like giac, revo, apr, etc etc.
not correct... a k04 will run fine on a stock file and injectors, but will not give much for gains. but it WILL run fine. it is only if you are chipped and throw in a K04 that you need to change software to accomodate. this is because in stock mode, the ecu is only asking for a miniscule amount of boost, so the stock fueling maps are adequate.
i don't think that the software is the problem, while i would certainly recommend an upgrade of software to take advantage of the k04 after you get the car running right. i am thinking your timing is set incorrectly, or maybe the cam position sensor it (*&^ed
Old 11-22-2010, 03:22 AM
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Forgot to mention, that overboost condition suggests to me that your car is in limp mode.
Old 11-22-2010, 04:49 AM
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Doesn't matter now. It broke the Crankshaft snout during the above run. So the engine is toast. Trying to decide if i rebuild it or what.
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