A4 (B6 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the B6 Audi A4 produced from 2002-2005

A4 3.0Q Front Brake Job

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-21-2007, 05:56 PM
  #1  
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
pkgreco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default A4 3.0Q Front Brake Job

OK I'm a nOOb and I need help from anyone who knows their...

I just had the front rotors and pads replaced and the pedal felt mushy so I called the place and brought the car back. Test drive prooves nothing and they tell me that the rotors and pads need to "bed" and I need to take it easy- 10 cars and at least twenty brake jobs - I have never heard that the rotors and pads need to "bed". I took the car home and whe I get home approx 3 miles away - the pedal hits the floor and the rotors are smoking. Took the car back and they replce the rotors and tell me everything is normal...pedal still feels mushy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PK
Old 06-21-2007, 05:59 PM
  #2  
AudiWorld Expert
 
MikTip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 29,355
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Mushy pedal, usually means air needs to be bled from brake hydraulic system....

Take it to a different shop, and or DIY<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel139.shtml">https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel139.shtml</a</li></ul>
Old 06-21-2007, 06:21 PM
  #3  
AudiWorld Super User
 
bhvrdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 13,834
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

2nd. And pads definitely need to be bed to rotors. Not new.
Old 06-21-2007, 07:03 PM
  #4  
AudiWorld Uber User
 
Tgr_Clw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 43,023
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default 3rd. Check out this link

<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml">http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml</a></li></ul>
Old 06-21-2007, 07:04 PM
  #5  
AudiWorld Senior Member
 
4AudiQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Bedding in your brakes.................

How to Bed-in Your Brakes
by Dave Zeckhausen

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.

Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

When following these instructions, avoid doing it around other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. An officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

1. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. With some less aggressive street pads, you may need fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.

3. The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

4. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.

5. If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

6. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

7. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

I did it after my BBK - Rears and it worked.
Old 06-22-2007, 06:59 AM
  #6  
Member
 
Mrkrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default totally normal when i put my b7 a4 brakes

the brake rotors have coatings on them, you didnt take that off = smoke. zimmerman does this.

the brakes will improve by bedding them in or by driving for about 30 minutes (city). It will take another 300+ miles to reach the same level of light use bedding compared to a proper bedding procedure.

Alas the cops around here do not find it funny to do 60mph power stops back to back around here. plus if you don't know the rotor/pad combination properly you may under/over bed or worse warp the rotors.

yeah the brakes were downright dangerous on the maiden voyage lol. gotta remember to clean that cosmoline like stuff off the rotors next time!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
N'Syncro
Parts For Sale - Archive (NO NEW POSTS HERE)
33
02-16-2020 03:12 PM
ebod0000
A6 (C7 Platform) Discussion
170
06-07-2018 01:39 PM
pattonfrench
A6 (C7 Platform) Discussion
0
09-07-2015 01:11 PM
ECS Tuning-Audi
A4 (B6 Platform) Discussion
0
09-02-2015 11:39 AM
C6Silver
Q7 MK 1 Discussion
4
09-01-2015 08:46 PM



Quick Reply: A4 3.0Q Front Brake Job



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:37 AM.