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Audi A4 2003 Frontrak B6 CVT Multitronic Oil/Fluid change/flush

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Old 07-30-2014, 04:01 AM
  #41  
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The 'filter' is part of the oil coolant line, not a serviceable part, If this were blocked I'd imagine you would get an Transmission temperature fluid overheat and a warning, but it has apressure bypass built in. Its a €200 part, not referred to as a filter in the parts list, just as part of the oil coolant line, part number 4F0317826. Have a look here,
AUDI A6/AVANT [A6] (EUROPE) 2007: GEARBOX: 31751. OIL PRESSURE LINE FOR; GEARBOX OIL COOLING; FOR CONSTANTLY VARIABLE; AUTOMATIC GEARBOX
Old 07-30-2014, 02:10 PM
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Yes thanks I see it on the diagrams and did not find it on mine yet but I was not looking that high up. I'll check again. ( I did find it high up on the right front behind the radiator . Difficult job to cut out and replace but I may be able to remove the line complete ,flush it and replace it or maybe put it together with a Magnetite filter and replace it .

My interest in that is because if it blocks with metalic gunk , shavings ,call it what you will, it will go on to bypass the fluid through the pressure release valve. If that is the case you won't get a fault anywhere .

On another forum mention is made of cutting the filter out and installing a Magnetite filter in its place - a $30 part which remains serviceable and which will trap metalic content passing through. As a long term solution to this gearbox problem this is seeming like the most sensible option.

The three fingers of the TCM poke into the box as far as I can see and work by sensing changes in the fields of two magnetic rings with hall effect sensors . Clearly any metal that gets around them will be attracted and will stay there I would think causing misreadings by the sensors.

Indeed my Vag-comm now tells me I have an "implausable signeal from F125" and that is the only cause of the flashing light as that is the only fault registered . Looks like I will attempt to pull off the MCU when I do the oil change

Anyone know if I can pull off the back of the box in situ ?
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Last edited by tytower; 08-07-2014 at 01:34 AM.
Old 08-02-2014, 07:31 AM
  #43  
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If it's not broken, don't fix it.
Old 08-03-2014, 03:21 AM
  #44  
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read this,
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/703m7...nsmission.html
You can replace this
AUDI A6/AVANT [A6] (EUROPE) 2007: ELECTRICS: 92750. CONTROL UNIT FOR AUTOMATIC; TRANSMISSION - INFIN. VARIABLE
Heres one for £200
AUDI A6 2.4 ECU (TRANSMISSION) - Part No: 4F1 910 155 F / 01J 927 156 JG
You must do all this after replacement.
CVT Audi installiation instructi

The G195 fault is the speed sensor, but in the CVT this is not a seperate part, but part of the TCM Unit. Also, there was a problem with pre 2004 cvt's which audi settled in a class action in the US. Read this, explains sticking valve problem prior to 2004.
Fix Your Audi Cvt Gearbox Now Available. - Autos - Nairaland

Last edited by deezell; 08-03-2014 at 11:56 AM. Reason: extra info
Old 08-03-2014, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by deezell
If it's not broken, don't fix it.
Owning 4 tractors 2 service vehicles and 2 road cars I can be quite sure that I am not likely to be wasting my time fixing anything that does not need it.

I think you have missed the point a bit maybe. There is an incorrect reading coming out of it and I seek ways of cleaning what I think must be contamination at the sensor point . Not broken just dirty.
Perhaps at the tip of the plastic probe , perhaps around the magnetic ring. What I am looking for is to see if the back of the box can be taken off in situ and the magnetic rings cleaned with a cloth to remove any metal shavings.

I have read the procedures you pointed to and can do all of that with the oil change . I have the vag-comm working now as mentioned previously. I am not sure if the adaptation proceedure is necessary but i will do it anyway when I change the fluid and see what the Vag-comm tells me.

Here is the same stuff but in understandable english from the .pdf
Audi CVT Installation and Adaptation Instructions
Any time a CVT transmission is installed or serviced, it is important that you follow the exact
maintenance and adaptation procedures. If not, serious transmission damage will occur!
Adaptation procedures are mandatory on the CVT because an alternate a clutch resides within
the transmission in place of a torque converter. If adaptation procedures are not performed after
any repairs or fault deletions, drivability problems and transmission failures will follow. Note that
these procedures do exist and must be performed for all replacements and service maintenance.
To refill the transmission you must have the proper tool or build your own. The Audi CTV models
not only have a clutch adaptation procedure, but also a special procedure for changing the fluid.
All four wheels must be off the ground a minimum of 20 centimeters (8 inches), and each wheel
must be able to be rotated freely by hand. While observing the Tiptronic indicator, shift the CVT
from its lowest ratio to its highest (six or seven speeds), accelerating moderately after each shift
but never exceeding 56 kilometers (35 mph). Shift the transmission back down to 1st gear and
gently apply the brake until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Once the vehicle is stopped,
place the transmission in Reverse, release the brake and moderately accelerate to a Reverse
gear speed of 19 kilometers (12 mph). Once again, gently apply the brakes until the vehicle
comes to a complete stop. Place the selector lever to Drive and repeat these steps five more
times. When completed,I assume this is Fluid change in here somewhere) place the selector lever in Park and turn the engine off. Lower the
vehicle to the ground. Prepare for the relearning process for reverse and forward adaptation.
took some table stuff out of here)
Flash checks: VCDS can display the software version but a dealer level scan tool is required to
update a flash unless there is a J2534 and programmer and VW/Audi subscription. Contact your
dealer with the VIN and see if a flash is available. If the data level is lower, upload the latest TCM
flash software. For flashing use update CD # 8E0-906-961J or the 7 disc update CD.
Update the gearbox software via "Self Diagnosis" >>02 Gearbox>> Update programming.
WARNING! The battery must have a minimum no load charge of 12.5 Volts.
It is extremely important to connect the battery to a powered approved power supply.
(see Audi specifications or this link) for a 75A example and the 90A coming soon.
Turn off the Radio and all other accessories. Use vehicle specific entry to Guided Fault Finding or
J2534 programmer. All fault codes in all controllers must be erased.
5052 IE: Select 02-Multitronic 01J Complaint report >> Power train >> Bucking when Accelerating
from A Standstill. Follow the instructions on screen.
After flashing the TCM the vehicle is ready to perform an adaptation test drive.Thats another proceedure over 33 feet
Adaptation Forward and Reverse
NOTE! Complete each step to adapt the Transmission Control Module (TCM)
The engine must be running and the transmission oil temperature must be between 60° C and
90° C. Confirm that the ATF is at a minimum 65° C by checking data block 010 field 3.
This setup is adapted and completed with Ross-Tech’s VCDS
Connect the VAG scan tool and enter address 02 Transmission Electronics. (Leave it connected)
There must be NO fault codes stored in engine and transmission control modules.
All driving and braking has to be done in partial load, avoid full throttle and braking!
Shift vehicle into position D
Drive forward in part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop and
continue to apply brake pedal for at least 10 seconds.
Repeat this step two to four times.
Shift vehicle into R and release brake pedal.
Drive backwards at part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop
and continue to apply brake pedal for at least 10 seconds.
Repeat this step two to four times.
Select address 02 Transmission Electronics and view Data Block Function 08 Group 010 and Go.
Watch the second field in that block. The field must change from "ADP RUN" to "ADP OK"
The procedure may need to be repeated at least 3 times but possibly as many as 5 times, until
the measuring values show APD OK.
If the second field displays APD OK push Done, Go Back.
Select address 02 Transmission Electronics and view Data Block Function 08 Group 011 and Go.
Watch the second field in the block. The field must change from "ADP RUN" to "ADP OK"
The procedure may need to be repeated at least 3 times but possibly as many as 5 times, until
the measuring values show APD OK.
If the second field displays APD OK push Done, Go Back.
"ADP" is the abbreviation for Adaptation. Adaptation means “adapting to an internally specified
value”. If for some reason the values don't switch to APD OK read the fault codes at Address 02
Transmission Electronics and repair those faults. Clear all faults BEFORE proceeding forward to
any adaptations.
“TCM” is the abbreviation for Transmission Control Module
“CVT” is the abbreviation for Continuously Variable Transmission
“ATF” is the abbreviation for Automatic Transmission Fluid
“Data Block” is a common term relating to measured or live values
“Field” is a common term relating to one of the four data displays within a group
“Function” is a common term relating to an execution parameter built within the software
“Address” is a common term relating to a controller ie: 01 Engine, 02 Transmission, 03 ABS

Last edited by tytower; 08-03-2014 at 04:47 PM.
Old 08-04-2014, 10:05 AM
  #46  
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I have a feeling that when you do the fluid change the sensor and ring will be cleaned sufficiently to resume reading output speed correctly. If the old fluid is contaminated, metal particles, burnt smell, it would be worthwhile to " flush" by carrying out the procedure twice, using cvt fluid of course. If the G195 fault goes, happy days.

Last edited by deezell; 08-05-2014 at 12:10 AM.
Old 08-06-2014, 02:38 PM
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Yes you are probably right .
I got the sump plug tool yesterday and will get a little fluid out of it now for a looksee and smell. Teaspoons I'm talking about.

I tried the adaptation proceedure with the Vag-com just out of curiosity. Set it up and it read ADP-RUN (is it supposed to show that when you have done nothing to the box or fluid at all? )

Drove the forward and back thing and got no change whatever. After a while i got the flashing light warning again and stopped and turned it off . came back later and it had stopped flashing , cleared the error codes and tried it again and I was pretty sure it was not going to change .

This is supposed to be done at the dealers when the fluid is changed but I wonder if they would go to the trouble . I doubt it.
I am guessing this sets up the fluid pressure on the clutches perhaps according to an inbuilt pressure setting . Perhaps the working pressure settings for the cones also . As its done in block 010 and 011 perhaps its setting both clutches and the cones.


EDIT- I had another go and when the fluid hit 60C it changed ,first the 011 block then the 010 block ,to ADP-OK. You can have both blocks open at the same time in the Vag-com . That pleased me no end and driving it ,there seems to be no clutch slip at this stage . I put vag-com on again while driving and it says ADP-RUN again while it is running but after a 30 minute run I noticed one of them , 010 ,which I think is for the forward movement showed ADP-OK again and was at 66 C. So I am still confused as to what it is doing.

I watched the Nm readings too . At idle its 15Nm When the tranny is clear of faults it stays there when you rev in Park.
When there is a fault and the warning is flashing the Nm's go up into the 400's if you rev it in Park ? Foot on the brake all the time.

Does anyone know what is going on in the Adaptation process here and what and where the Nm blocks pressures relate to ?

Last edited by tytower; 08-07-2014 at 01:54 AM.
Old 08-08-2014, 12:54 AM
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Well no other posts so just an update in case others read this much later.

I have now had no noticeable slip for 2 days. The slip was a noticeable jerk under acceleration as if it slipped a quarter turn then grabbed again from time to time. Mostly in 5 th and 6th and when I noticed it I immediately went to tiptronic mode, changed back a gear and it disappeared .

Now I do not have to do that and it is noticeably changing automatically to lower ratios in those same scenarios . I think perhaps the adaptation was not done by whoever did the last transmission oil change or the oil properties have changed over time and doing the adaptation now has adjusted the clutch operating pressures in both forward and reverse. After all the Multitronic Gearbox ".pdf" tells me that it is only oil pressure that holds the clutch plates compressed under drive and no pressure is applied in neutral and park apart from some limited pressure for creep and hill stability . Reverse has its own set of similar clutch plates around the outside of the forward clutches ,operated the same way.

All very interesting . This is the first time I have come accross this type of clutch and drive system.

I still have the F125 problem with an implausible signal from the selector lever but I'll investigate that when I get under it next . I am still hoping someone might tell me if the back of the gearbox can be removed under the car. I'm assuming the TCM (Transmission Control Module) can at least be removed and the various fingers and connections cleaned without too much fuss.

Last edited by tytower; 08-08-2014 at 01:08 AM.
Old 08-09-2014, 08:14 AM
  #49  
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Read this, http://www.bba-reman.com/docs/MAR10ShiftPointers.pdf
and
PRNDS flashing - Page 2 - Audi Forum - Audi Forums for the A4, S4, TT, A3, A6 and more!
Lots of info here on removing TCM. If fluid change and cleaning doesn't stop the faults recurring you might need a rebuilt TCM. The Nm readings would leap if a valve was sticking (a known CVT problem pre 2004) or if the TCM was responding to faulty sensor readings (such as the G195 code), applying extra pressure to the plates to try and get a response from a faulty or blocked sensor perhaps. Like any feedback loop, it would 'run away' if there was not a measured response (output speed in your case) following an input. 15Nm seems to be the correct idle torque when the system is stable. I'm waiting for KKL cable to get VCDS up and running, so i'm no expert on it or the transmission codes, but I'll bet your'e on the right track with either a dirty or faulty sensor on the TCM. Fluid change first, then pop off the TCM if you have to.

Last edited by deezell; 08-09-2014 at 10:24 AM.
Old 08-21-2014, 02:24 AM
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Guess you wondered where I went !
Sorry, I got busy and have gotten no further with the car . The fault just comes and goes and frankly I am enjoying the terrific ride atm so not in any hurry whilst gathering info.

Thank You for the previous links . Very informative and right on the money.
They tell me what i wanted to know and knowing what to expect is crucial .The pictures are brilliant and I suspect that cleaning with the cotton bud did the trick not the supposed rebuild of the TCM. But we will see on that . It looks like I can go right through this exercise without cost by saving the old fluid and filtering it . Put it back in and use it as the flushing agent before a refil with new fluid.

That will also tell me if my suspicions are correct or there really is a fault. Closer monitoring of the fault is always showing the selector lever now F125 .

The clutch slippage is still there but only when the fluid temp gets over 65C so I'm thinking this might be fixed/affected by the new fluid

I read this in more from your second URL below ,but i went back to the source on the way back machine
may sound like a funny question but, have you had any problems with the car since sending the ecu to bba reman?
i only ask because i followed your instructions and the car was absolutely fine for 36 miles and the fault re-occered, the next day it was fine and we had the fault codes deleted, and now seems that after about an 40 minutes of use the fault returns. then if you leave it to cool down the flashing stops.
the same fault keeps coming back, any help with this would be great.
https://web.archive.org/web/20110517...ng-4756-2.html

This is pretty much what I get too -temperature related and does not show up when the transmission is cold.

Good on your KKL cable and if you have trouble getting it going have a reread of my post covering it previously. I'm working on getting a dealer /workshop password too which will open up more of it I think.

Last edited by tytower; 08-21-2014 at 03:27 AM.


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