bah, got rear pads on and now the pedal sinks to the floor, brake light is flashing
#12
Re: rears need to screw and press in at the same time, need a rear caliper tool from a box
Thanks, Merkin.
I did get that "press" part but not completely into the "screw". There are really nothing to screw, in rears. At least I haven't see anything. May be the piston pad(head) itself? Cos after I finally hammered it down, it pulls-out in twist-kinda motion.
Thanks for reference of toolkit in red box. I'll get one. HarborFreight rules.
So for front ones I'll no need to jerk with any electrical switches/plugs in order to push brake liquid out of piston body into reservoir, right? Just press with that "brake tool" and it should work. Is tranny should be in gear, park or neutral?
Is there any reset procedure after front changed? Or that yellow circle will go away on start? Boy, that sound on turns!
It was kinda strange for me in a beginning of this exercise when I started receiving sound and warning circle on dashboard. I looked into fronts first, assuming brake sequence started from the fronts and kick-off by rears. But rears were worn-out about 60% more then fronts. So I presume either they were changed by pairs, just as I doing, or rears shredded faster. Which is possible on Quattro, I think(?).
But in my opinion there were fear amount of padding composite on fronts and may be lesser on rears. I do brakes by myself on my other 2 vehicles(and they both moving) Suburban'99 and Neon'95 so I know when it gets really thin, even before they starts squeaking.
Anyway, I ordered Hawks Performance Ceramic for rears and front to reduce that nasty dust. I did not followed procedure on rears as Hawcks prescribed to create that thin absorption film on rotor, so I still have some dust. It does not look that horrible as with OEM composites but still have to clean up every 7-10 days.
So with front ones I'll do exactly as they suggested and will see if it helps.
Thanks for ur cooperation.
I did get that "press" part but not completely into the "screw". There are really nothing to screw, in rears. At least I haven't see anything. May be the piston pad(head) itself? Cos after I finally hammered it down, it pulls-out in twist-kinda motion.
Thanks for reference of toolkit in red box. I'll get one. HarborFreight rules.
So for front ones I'll no need to jerk with any electrical switches/plugs in order to push brake liquid out of piston body into reservoir, right? Just press with that "brake tool" and it should work. Is tranny should be in gear, park or neutral?
Is there any reset procedure after front changed? Or that yellow circle will go away on start? Boy, that sound on turns!
It was kinda strange for me in a beginning of this exercise when I started receiving sound and warning circle on dashboard. I looked into fronts first, assuming brake sequence started from the fronts and kick-off by rears. But rears were worn-out about 60% more then fronts. So I presume either they were changed by pairs, just as I doing, or rears shredded faster. Which is possible on Quattro, I think(?).
But in my opinion there were fear amount of padding composite on fronts and may be lesser on rears. I do brakes by myself on my other 2 vehicles(and they both moving) Suburban'99 and Neon'95 so I know when it gets really thin, even before they starts squeaking.
Anyway, I ordered Hawks Performance Ceramic for rears and front to reduce that nasty dust. I did not followed procedure on rears as Hawcks prescribed to create that thin absorption film on rotor, so I still have some dust. It does not look that horrible as with OEM composites but still have to clean up every 7-10 days.
So with front ones I'll do exactly as they suggested and will see if it helps.
Thanks for ur cooperation.
#13
Paint is peeling off of some front console spots and doors
Hello fellows,
Any ideas for "refreshing"(?) or replacing these buttons/mechanisms. Even stereo is all looks like **** now.And it's after 4 years!!!!!
Or the only thing is to go to dealer and pay some astro-baks to "professionally replace" all of them?
Thanks.
Any ideas for "refreshing"(?) or replacing these buttons/mechanisms. Even stereo is all looks like **** now.And it's after 4 years!!!!!
Or the only thing is to go to dealer and pay some astro-baks to "professionally replace" all of them?
Thanks.
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