Changing Brake Pads. Recommendations on Pads??
10-13-2007, 07:03 AM
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Changing Brake Pads. Recommendations on Pads??
Need advice on good pads. I'd pay alittle more pads with less brake dust. Ceramic. Mileage is just 40K so the rotors are probably okay. I don't plan on resurfacing these. I'd change the rotors too, but this is more involved and I haven't seen any articles on DIY rotor change.
Thanks,
CVT Benhogan
Thanks,
CVT Benhogan
10-13-2007, 07:07 AM
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40K rotors are probably munched
i think i paid $175 to put on new calipers, SS brake lines, front/rear rotors/pads. due to the strange rear pads it took a bit longer.
the rears are really the pita. the fronts you can DIY but unless you are sure the new rotors are straight it probably doesn't hurt to throw them on the lathe once to just make sure. most rotors have cosmoline on them or some coating as well that must be washed/cut/whatever off before driving around.
just swapping pads is pretty ghetto, you don't drive a ghetto car, do it right. that way you'll be safe for another 40K miles.
the rears are really the pita. the fronts you can DIY but unless you are sure the new rotors are straight it probably doesn't hurt to throw them on the lathe once to just make sure. most rotors have cosmoline on them or some coating as well that must be washed/cut/whatever off before driving around.
just swapping pads is pretty ghetto, you don't drive a ghetto car, do it right. that way you'll be safe for another 40K miles.
10-13-2007, 08:38 AM
#3
I'd worry more about a caliper refresh than the pads.I'm using AZ Duralast Gold Ceramic w old rotors
Since you are re-using the old rotors, I would not get too crazy about the pads. Better to do a caliper service w/ new seals and clean + lube the guide pins. Seal kits are like $5. The calipers will last forever and will work better this way. I am in the middle of a job on my woman's CRV. AutoZone Duralast Gold Ceramics are good. We needed a rebuilt caliper since the pass side piston rusted and pitted from the boot being torn and I did a just a seal service on the other side.
10-13-2007, 01:48 PM
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yeah its not hard but instead i just bought from a low mileage B7 (fronts)
I could have gone for 2000/2001 B5 S4 but i found a very low mileage B7 A4 3.2. 21K miles and 2 years old. killed two birds with one stone.
10-13-2007, 03:26 PM
#7
Putting a new rubber boot on the guide pins is about as *hard as putting on a rubber.(*pun intended)
With good calipers that have >2 year-old seals, it's just a matter of popping the calipers apart, cleaning the guide pins and re-lubing them w/anti-sieze, extracting the piston bore (I just pump the brakes until it pops out) new O-ring and boot go right on. It all gives a much better result than the cheap $60 slap-it-together Midas PepZone job people seem to crave. $5 kit to insure the calipers work perfectly and never sieze is a no-brainer.
It's THE diy job to master. Even better than timing belt, because you get a nicely functioning brake system. TB job is the same no matter who does it.
It's THE diy job to master. Even better than timing belt, because you get a nicely functioning brake system. TB job is the same no matter who does it.
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10-13-2007, 04:41 PM
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Fronts look good and thick. Rears maybe need replacement.
Took the wheels off today to survey the situation. Looks very doable. I might replace the rear rotors and ginder the fronts. They look good and thick. That said, maybe audi SAs grinded these before during service.