Checke off valve cover cracked
#1
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The check engine light came in my Audi A4, I took the vehicle in for a diagnostic and it revealed that the "check off valve cracked" which cause the check engine light to come on.
The dealer charges $176 (part & labor), but I first of all do not know what that valve is or where is it located; therefore, I don't know whether their charge is fair.
If you know where that check off valve is located, please advice.
Thanks.
The dealer charges $176 (part & labor), but I first of all do not know what that valve is or where is it located; therefore, I don't know whether their charge is fair.
If you know where that check off valve is located, please advice.
Thanks.
#2
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/61481/old-new_in_line.jpg"></center><p>
The photo shows a new one next to one of mine that showed damage, but had not failed yet. The one in the photo was right on top and very eay to reach near the evap parts.
Looking at your engine standing in front of the car, the evap in line check valve is roughly at 10 O'clock right up at the "surface" and not buried underneath anything. It is EXTREMELY easy to replace, and the valves themselves run about $17 each (dealer should have them). They are probably assessing one hour of labor (the minimum) and the part + mark up.
In my pic poster, there is a vacuum diagram showing other locations of these small in-line check valves. They slowing crack and break just due to hot and cold cycles.
Hope this helps!
The photo shows a new one next to one of mine that showed damage, but had not failed yet. The one in the photo was right on top and very eay to reach near the evap parts.
Looking at your engine standing in front of the car, the evap in line check valve is roughly at 10 O'clock right up at the "surface" and not buried underneath anything. It is EXTREMELY easy to replace, and the valves themselves run about $17 each (dealer should have them). They are probably assessing one hour of labor (the minimum) and the part + mark up.
In my pic poster, there is a vacuum diagram showing other locations of these small in-line check valves. They slowing crack and break just due to hot and cold cycles.
Hope this helps!
#3
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Is that what the dealer calls "Check off valve"? They did not give me the part number, but I was guessing that they refered to either the "deverter or N75 valve", since the dealer charges $70 for the part alone.
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It's an easy DIY with the new part (probably in stock at the dealer, or get it from Purems.com or ecstuning.com), with two small hose clamps. Just pry the OEM clamps off, swap parts, and then tighten the clamps. Do it with your engine off, and your car won't notice a difference (if it hasn't failed yet).
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