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Engine over heating with a full coolant reservoir

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Old 11-08-2011, 05:49 AM
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Default Engine over heating with a full coolant reservoir

The car is a 2004 A4 1.8t. It has an obvious coolant leak somewhere. The coolant level in the reservoir goes below the minimum mark after every 300-400 miles.

One day I was driving the car and noticed the temp gauge started moving past the mid point slowly. The low coolant lamp came on as soon as the gauge was nearing the red zone. So I quickly pulled the car over and turned it off. Thinking that it was just low on coolant, I opened up the hood preparing to fill the reservoir up (yes, I know it's a really bad idea to do that while the car is hot), but the level was already near the maximum mark. That same day, I noticed the heater inside the car was not working. Only cold air. I believe the two issues are some how related.

I barely made it back home that day. I drove the car in 2 minutes intervals (with a lot of coasting), in between multiple 10 minute cool off periods (with the engine off).
Does anyone have any ideas as to what can be causing this over heating?
Old 11-08-2011, 06:49 AM
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First, how many miles, any recent servicing, etc would be good.

Over-heating is one of several things:

1) Leak casuing low coolant. Don't think this is it since you don't mention signs of leaks anywhere.
2) Thermostat stuck closed. This won't allow coolant into the engine and thus your heater core.
3) Water pump. One of the failures of cheap water pumps is the "cage" (the part of the pump that is inside the engine block) that creates coolant flow breaks and "freewheels" thus not creating any coolant flow through the block. This would explain your symptoms as well.
4) Worst case and check into the other 2 first!!!! Blown head.

The middle 2 are a guess unless you have replaced either recently. They cause the same problem which is no flow through your block.
Old 11-08-2011, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by lyleswk
First, how many miles, any recent servicing, etc would be good.

Over-heating is one of several things:

1) Leak casuing low coolant. Don't think this is it since you don't mention signs of leaks anywhere.
2) Thermostat stuck closed. This won't allow coolant into the engine and thus your heater core.
3) Water pump. One of the failures of cheap water pumps is the "cage" (the part of the pump that is inside the engine block) that creates coolant flow breaks and "freewheels" thus not creating any coolant flow through the block. This would explain your symptoms as well.
4) Worst case and check into the other 2 first!!!! Blown head.

The middle 2 are a guess unless you have replaced either recently. They cause the same problem which is no flow through your block.
The car has 105,000 miles on it. I bought it with 96,000 miles on it back in 2009. The water pump and timing belt were replaced that year. The car must have a coolant leak some where since as I mentioned, I have to top off the reservoir every 300-400 miles. But the reservoir was full when it was overheating.

If the thermostat is stuck closed, does it need to be replaced? Also, can the thermostat cause a coolant leak? I guess it could also be a bad water pump if the dealer replaced with a cheap one.
Old 11-08-2011, 10:47 AM
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I'm also gonna try to bleed the coolant system a little in case there are air bubbles.
Old 11-08-2011, 12:28 PM
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Bleeding is typically only an issue with the heater, not running hot.

Even a cheap water pump should last that long. Based on all this, I would lean toward thermostat and no, you don't want to drive with a failed one.

Leaks? Don't think this would not be caused only by a stuck thermostat. Most leaks are from 1) aft coolant flange (rear of engine), 2) j plug (area of thermostat), or 3) the radiator itself (front of car), all of which you should see evidence of dried pink coolant. If the car is "eating" coolant and there is no leak, then the head comes to mind.
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