engine temp gauge not moving from cold, also seems to be less boost, coolant sensor bad??
#1
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engine temp gauge not moving from cold, also seems to be less boost, coolant sensor bad??
I can't find my Vag-cable so i was not able to check it out. But the temp gauge on the dash usually settles in the middle and today it isn't moving off of cold. I am thinking that the coolant sensor is bad (again) or that the thermostat is stuck. Would this also correlate with reduced performance.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
if thermostat did not respond to requested cooling it would throw a CEL
thats a pretty hardcore emissions faux pas to run in cold start all the time, eh?
you'd get alot of carbon buildup on bumper/tips if it was running rich always too. our cars are pretty clean burning with cat
you'd get alot of carbon buildup on bumper/tips if it was running rich always too. our cars are pretty clean burning with cat
#4
Check the G2 temp sensor, pins 1 (signal to gauge,) and 2 (sensor ground)
If the tstat was stuck open, and the coolant remained below setpoint, and did not respond to the ECU mapped cooling control, that would illuminate the CEL. The temp gauge in the dash panel receives the temp info from one of the two independent sensors located in the "G2" temp sensor housing, at pins 1 and 2. Either the sensor for the gauge failed, or the wiring is "open circuit".(Note that this is NOT the "G62" engine temp sensor that the ECU receives engine temp signal from.)
Is the coolant level in the expansion tank visible above the MIN line?
Is the coolant level in the expansion tank visible above the MIN line?
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yes. the coolant is above the min line. i check that first. do you have a pic or diagram
of where the 2 "G2" sensor housings / pins 1&2 are located? I would prefer to fix or atleast check it myself before heading to the shop. If i do need to bring it to the shop, is it safe to drive?
#7
The G2 /G62 sensor incorporates 2 seperate sensor circuits. The gauge
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/98458/a15-0555.1.jpg"></center><p>
is connected to pins 1, and 2. It is OK to drive to the shop, even if the coolent actually is not warming up, instead of a bad gauge.
is connected to pins 1, and 2. It is OK to drive to the shop, even if the coolent actually is not warming up, instead of a bad gauge.
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new info for you. I just took it for a short drive. The gauge does now move up to the first
line/mark. It does not go above that. The wires look to be intact going to the sensor. they do not seem loose or torn or damaged. The antifreeze in the overflow take is in the middle of max & min.
Should i just install a new sensor?
Should i just install a new sensor?
#10
Try this, with the heater in manual mode, set the temp to maximum heat, medium fan speed, ...
does the heater seem to work normally? That is, does the hot air seam up to normal?