A4 (B6 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the B6 Audi A4 produced from 2002-2005

Finally fixed my seatback...

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Old 03-16-2008, 06:08 PM
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Default Finally fixed my seatback...

So, I've had one lower clip on my driver seat broken for like 6 months, but have been waiting to fix until the other broke. Well, it never did, but the tweaked lumbar has screwed my back enough that I finally broke down and ordered the metal replacement parts. My kit came with only one felt square, so I had to cut it in half. I used Silvrqtro's write-up as a basis. I couldn't get the right leverage with a flathead to get the upper clips out, so I proceeded to pull ever-so-gently. I could hear the fabric backerboard of the panel starting to tear away from the glued plastic brackets as I pulled. None came loose, but I did end up breaking one of the brackets where the metal spring clip slots in.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/39454/broken_clip_location.jpg">

The piece doesn't do anything, but hold the metal clip in place, so I used a little Loctite gel to get it back together.

Once free, I learned where my backache was coming from. The lower horizontal rod that holds the lumbar assembly in place was broken at the point where it turns toward the front of the car, so the lumbar was pushing into my back at an angle.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/39454/broken_bar_location.jpg">

Since I don't have a welder, nor would I want to put sparks into a bunch of foam, I improvised. After two attempts at using some sort of metal tubing (compression pins, electrical butt connector) to connect the pieces, I started over. Since the break was just before the bend in the rod, I couldn't get the metal tubes to hold in place after I put my weight against the seat. I ended up using some thick-walled fuel line and screw clamps instead. Much easier to work with, and should be just as strong since the clamps are holding the rod ends from backing out. Yes, I overkilled with clamps, but I wanted to ensure no backout and minimize the potential for stretching or the rod wearing a hole in the hose. I made sure to use fuel line and not vac line because it's woven for strength. Just for good measure, I slid some small pieces of cardboard between the clamps and foam. Nothing was digging in, but better safe than sorry.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/39454/broken_bar_solution.jpg">

So, everything is back together. No creaking, no squeaking, and no back pain. Feel free to use the info as needed. As with always, proceed at your own expertise level. I just finished this afternoon, so time will tell if it holds up. I have no worries though, as I'm basically using a cinder block as a paper weight. Enjoy.
Old 03-16-2008, 07:09 PM
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yikes. very crafty, i like it
Old 03-16-2008, 07:22 PM
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i have the same problem and im gonna try this on my lunch break thxs!
Old 03-17-2008, 06:23 AM
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have the same problem. can you link us to Silvrqtro's write-up? Thanks
Old 03-18-2008, 05:56 PM
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Howdy! Congrats on fatherhood, kinda cuts into modding, but well worth it.
Old 03-19-2008, 08:57 PM
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Default Links & Further Info

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I know it's not that pretty, nor the most ideal, but I'll probably never lay eyes on it again, and it's better than spending the ~$300 for a whole new lumbar unit.

If you go my route with the fuel line, make sure to cut it long enough so the rod cannot back out, regardless of clamps used. Also, I removed the short squiggly piece, then jammed the fuel line on it as hard as I could get it in order to create as much pressure/tension on the piece as possible. This is the weak point of the lumbar unit, I learned, because that is the point that takes the most weight/pressure when you first get into the car. When I sit down, my "left kidney" hits that part of the seat first, so it takes a pretty good beating over time. Thus the issue. Make sure that you get that part as tight as possible, so when your weight pushes the spot backward, the fuel line won't pop off. Clear as mud, right?

Here is Silvr's write-up, along with the site that I bought the parts from. Can't remember what the dealer parts counter was charging (I think like $45), but depending on where you live, online should be much cheaper. I paid $24. It cost me another $15 for shipping since it came from SF, and I now live in Dallas. Let me know if you need other info or have questions. Good luck to all.

Part #: 8E0-898-035

Purchased From: www.autopartsnationwide.com

Cost: $23.85 + tax and shipping

Silvr's Write-up: https://forums.audiworld.com/a4gen2/msgs/915544.phtml
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