Glove box hinge repair and other musings...
06-09-2011, 10:19 AM
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2004 A4 Cabriolet Glovebox Hinge Repair
Thank you to all those who have provided useful advice on how to rectify this irritating problem without having to pay a substantial labour and parts cost.
First, like many others, I am extremely disappointed by the very poor engineering design of the glovebox lid hinges and damper. A case of under-engineering the damper and hinges and over-engineering the hinge pins! These failures let down Audi's reputation badly.
I report my experience of repairing the LH hinge (in a RHD car)in the hope it might benefit others yet to undertake the task. I followed the general advice of others before me.
1. Despite the temptation to do otherwise, I would recommend removing the glovebox completely and then the lid to give best access to the repair area. Trying to do otherwise is a false economy of effort.
2. Before removing the glovebox, I switched off the passenger airbag using the key switch in the glovebox. I found this allowed me to disconnect the main yellow cable connector and then reconnect it without the airbag warning light staying on. Others have quoted having a problem with the warning light after reconnecting.
3. Remove the LH sidepanel first; it is held on by 3 spring clips and is easily carefully prised off. The glovebox is held on by 6 x 8mm bolts (5 mentioned in others' texts - 3 at the top and 2 underneath); I found a 4th at the top that needed to be released to free the glovebox properly. Watch out for the little rubber bung at the LH end of the box which must be there to prevent rattles - replace it when refitting the glovebox.
4. The only electrical connection that needs to be released at this stage is the main yellow cable connector at the back. Having said that I do not have any fancy extras like cooling box, IPOD/phone connectors and others.
5. Having removed the glovebox complete, it is far easier to work on it. The next temptation is not to remove the lid because the steel hinge pins are extremely difficult to remove. In my experience this makes life difficult; grasp the nettle and neatly drill access holes to allow the pins to be punched out from behind. This does leave a small neat hole visible at the bottom LH end but it is in a discreet location and is a small price to pay to avoid the extortionate dealership replacement charges.
6. I punched the pins out relatively easily using a blunted 4 inch nail as a punch; it does require a decent hammer swing though! You need to release the damper from the inside end of the hinge - this is effected by taking out the small plastic pin; this is a fiddly job but can be successfully undertaken by squeezing the open sprung split inside end whilst pulling the pin out. See photo. Having done this, the lid is free provided that you also unclip the small electrical connector just below the damper on the LH side. I believe this is part of the central locking mechanism which locks the glovebox if open when you centrally lock the car. You need to take care about the two cables which pass through the LH hinge on their way to the glovebox lock when doing any repair.
7. Only my LH hinge was broken; judging by the number of complaints on this forum, and elsewhere, the damper and hinge designs are just not up to the job!! I adopted the screw, manufactured small aluminium bracket and epoxy resin glue (Araldite) approach - see attached photos for the detail. Not the most elegant of repairs perhaps but it does provide a little additional strength. Take care to shorten/blunt the screws used on the glovebox lid as the central locking wires may be close by! The passage the wires take through the original plastic bracket leaves a reasonable space for the screw attaching the manufactured bracket at that end. The repair can be toned down by painting the bracket matt black.
8. As regards the damper, I followed previous advice and drilled a very small hole in the blunt end of the cylinder which relieves the suction and I also applied WD40. After this there was still a certain amount of friction but it was a lot easier to move.
9. The repair seems to have worked however I will treat opening and closing the glovebox with great caution in future, not that I didn't in the past however! Best of luck to those yet to attempt it; I hope my notes help you.
First, like many others, I am extremely disappointed by the very poor engineering design of the glovebox lid hinges and damper. A case of under-engineering the damper and hinges and over-engineering the hinge pins! These failures let down Audi's reputation badly.
I report my experience of repairing the LH hinge (in a RHD car)in the hope it might benefit others yet to undertake the task. I followed the general advice of others before me.
1. Despite the temptation to do otherwise, I would recommend removing the glovebox completely and then the lid to give best access to the repair area. Trying to do otherwise is a false economy of effort.
2. Before removing the glovebox, I switched off the passenger airbag using the key switch in the glovebox. I found this allowed me to disconnect the main yellow cable connector and then reconnect it without the airbag warning light staying on. Others have quoted having a problem with the warning light after reconnecting.
3. Remove the LH sidepanel first; it is held on by 3 spring clips and is easily carefully prised off. The glovebox is held on by 6 x 8mm bolts (5 mentioned in others' texts - 3 at the top and 2 underneath); I found a 4th at the top that needed to be released to free the glovebox properly. Watch out for the little rubber bung at the LH end of the box which must be there to prevent rattles - replace it when refitting the glovebox.
4. The only electrical connection that needs to be released at this stage is the main yellow cable connector at the back. Having said that I do not have any fancy extras like cooling box, IPOD/phone connectors and others.
5. Having removed the glovebox complete, it is far easier to work on it. The next temptation is not to remove the lid because the steel hinge pins are extremely difficult to remove. In my experience this makes life difficult; grasp the nettle and neatly drill access holes to allow the pins to be punched out from behind. This does leave a small neat hole visible at the bottom LH end but it is in a discreet location and is a small price to pay to avoid the extortionate dealership replacement charges.
6. I punched the pins out relatively easily using a blunted 4 inch nail as a punch; it does require a decent hammer swing though! You need to release the damper from the inside end of the hinge - this is effected by taking out the small plastic pin; this is a fiddly job but can be successfully undertaken by squeezing the open sprung split inside end whilst pulling the pin out. See photo. Having done this, the lid is free provided that you also unclip the small electrical connector just below the damper on the LH side. I believe this is part of the central locking mechanism which locks the glovebox if open when you centrally lock the car. You need to take care about the two cables which pass through the LH hinge on their way to the glovebox lock when doing any repair.
7. Only my LH hinge was broken; judging by the number of complaints on this forum, and elsewhere, the damper and hinge designs are just not up to the job!! I adopted the screw, manufactured small aluminium bracket and epoxy resin glue (Araldite) approach - see attached photos for the detail. Not the most elegant of repairs perhaps but it does provide a little additional strength. Take care to shorten/blunt the screws used on the glovebox lid as the central locking wires may be close by! The passage the wires take through the original plastic bracket leaves a reasonable space for the screw attaching the manufactured bracket at that end. The repair can be toned down by painting the bracket matt black.
8. As regards the damper, I followed previous advice and drilled a very small hole in the blunt end of the cylinder which relieves the suction and I also applied WD40. After this there was still a certain amount of friction but it was a lot easier to move.
9. The repair seems to have worked however I will treat opening and closing the glovebox with great caution in future, not that I didn't in the past however! Best of luck to those yet to attempt it; I hope my notes help you.
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