Murphy'sSidekic

Changed my plugs today, and decided to document the process with pictures for the benefit of others.

I change my plugs every 3000-5000 miles, and it only takes me about 25 minutes. Really easy to do.

You will need these tools and consumables:
* flat-head screwdriver
* 5/8" spark plug socket
* 6"-10" socket extension
* ratchet
* torque wrench capable of delivering 22 ft-lbs (30 N-m)
* 4 new spark plugs (here I am using NGK BKR6E Copper SPs)
* dielectric grease
* high-temp anti-seize
* masking tape
* sharpie marker
* disposable gloves
* 2 disposable all-purpose brushes (small)

Follow steps <b>1)</b> through <b>15)</b>:

<b>1)</b> Ensure you are working on a cold engine. Open hood and examine engine bay.

<b>2)</b> Using a flat-head screwdriver or a key, remove the plastic engine cover by turning the several plastic screws about 1/2 turn each. the plastic screws will remain in the plastic cover. Remove cover and place aside.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/cover.JPG">

<b>3)</b> Examine engine without plastic covering.

<b>4)</b> Start with the front most cylinder. Remove the wiring that goes to the CP by using your fingernail or a flat-head screwdriver.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/cp1.JPG">

Remove the coilpack by pulling straight up on the black box that is sticking out of the top of the engine (this is the CP). Place CP aside.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/cp2.JPG">

<b>5)</b> Using a 5/8" spark plug socket (it has rubber inside to grip the SP) and a 6"-10" extension, unscrew SP and remove.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_remove.JPG">

<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_remove2.JPG">

<b>6)</b> Label the SP by cylinder # using the masking tape and marker so you can "read" it later. Put labeled SP aside (I use a small plastic organizer for my SP stuff).
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_box.JPG">

<b>7)</b> Examine new SP. Check plug gap and adjust if necessary. I gapped the NGKs I am using here to .032". I would suggest using a set of feeler gauges
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/feeler_gauge.gif">

instead of the universal gapping tool sold at the checkout counter.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/universal_gauge.jpg">

<b>8)</b> Add high-temp anti-seize to the threads of the SP.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/as1.JPG">

<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/as2.JPG">

Add a thin layer of dielectric grease to head of SP.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/dg1.JPG">

<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/dg2.JPG">

Using a scrap length of vacuum tubing, place the tubing over the head of the SP and reinsert into engine. The tubing allows you to place the SP into the engine and start to screw it in without the ability of stripping the tapped hole. Here, I am just using my SP socket instead of the tubing.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_install.JPG">

<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_install2.JPG">

<b>9)</b> Once the SP has been tightened by hand, use a torque wrench to torque the SP to 22 ft-lbs or 30 N-m.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/sp_torque.JPG">

<b>10)</b> Using a long q-tip or something like it, add a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside bottom copper area of the CP.

<b>11)</b> Reinstall CP by pushing it back into its hole and all the way down.
<img src="http://www.mechanicalmike.com/a4/sp_install/files/cp_install.JPG">

<b>12)</b> Reinstall CP wiring harness connection (make sure it "clicks").

<b>13)</b> Repeat steps 4 - 12 for the remaining cylinders.

<b>14)</b> Replace plastic engine cover and secure with its plastic screws.

<b>15)</b> Enjoy your new SPs and reward yourself with beer.

A4AdMan

when Audi shows changing plugs every 40K miles in the maintinence guide.

MB The Body

2nd

Murphy'sSidekic

If you are using a longer-life plug, such as platinum or iridium, you can change the SPs over a much longer interval.

A4Driver

Great tutorial! Now if only somebody would do the same for the 3.0

shadyraven

this would cover both - the basic DIY principles for each engine are the same

Murphy'sSidekic

True. I hear you have to remove the coolant resevoir to access some of the cylinders on the 3.0

MB The Body

added space.

shwndh

So If I can get to all of them with no tools, it's def an easy job.

calberto

Great write up, I'm filing it for future use.