I'm really seeing my car as a nightmare right now...
11-06-2005, 04:17 AM
#22
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Most of the times, you have to do nothing with the rotors. Brakes need a proper bed-in
procedure. Read the bed-in procedure at the StopTech web site. Provided the thickness is still there, you need to do nothing with rotors. My rough estimate for rotors is I replace them every other brake job.
If you follow the StopTech bedding procedure for brakes, you'll be fine. Most of the time when people think their rotors are warped, they're not. It's just an uneven transfer of pad material from the pad to the rotor and is usually concentrated in one spot, thereby causing the shimmying that you feel when you press the brakes.
Seriously, brake jobs are so easy. Your two most important tools for the job are latex gloves and a rubber mallet. Consider this for next time.
If you follow the StopTech bedding procedure for brakes, you'll be fine. Most of the time when people think their rotors are warped, they're not. It's just an uneven transfer of pad material from the pad to the rotor and is usually concentrated in one spot, thereby causing the shimmying that you feel when you press the brakes.
Seriously, brake jobs are so easy. Your two most important tools for the job are latex gloves and a rubber mallet. Consider this for next time.
11-06-2005, 05:37 AM
#23
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I believe rotors should be replaced as part of the job.
I had mine turned at an O'Rilley's and installed new pads from Brake Warehouse and they've made racket ever since.
I think the rotors were resurfaced poorly. The guy claimed they were out of spec so he probably skimped on the resurfacing leaving them rough and therefore noisy.
I think the rotors were resurfaced poorly. The guy claimed they were out of spec so he probably skimped on the resurfacing leaving them rough and therefore noisy.
11-06-2005, 07:27 AM
#26
Yuperee
<ul><li><a href="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi/?html=learnmore.html&productID=47">http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi/?html=learnmore.html&productID=47</a</li></ul>
11-06-2005, 07:36 AM
#27
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not yet...
The car only has 67,000 km on the clock (41,000 miles) so as far I know, the timing belt change is still a ways off - I believe it's typically changed around the 100,000 km mark. Someone did a write up on the timing belt not that long ago - can't remember... was it you?
11-06-2005, 08:02 AM
#28
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If you can afford Oettinger wheels and other crap you can afford new brakes at place other
then pep boys.
You should have known that pars for a $34K car are not gonna be cheap.
If you want cheap parts sell your car and buy Ford.
You should have known that pars for a $34K car are not gonna be cheap.
If you want cheap parts sell your car and buy Ford.
11-06-2005, 10:24 AM
#29
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opps ...
Forgot you all had KM odos! I didn't do the write up but I know the one your speaking of, it looks pretty involved but doable. I have almost 50k miles now and will be looking forward in the future to doing it (or having it done by the stealer).
The car is running strong these days. Fixed the exhaust bracket fracture so everything is tight and quiet once again. Getting ready to replace the rear brake pads. No further mods on the horizon. I've been working on keeping my 95 M3 in order however. New pads for that ride as well in the coming weeks.
cheers,
Peter
The car is running strong these days. Fixed the exhaust bracket fracture so everything is tight and quiet once again. Getting ready to replace the rear brake pads. No further mods on the horizon. I've been working on keeping my 95 M3 in order however. New pads for that ride as well in the coming weeks.
cheers,
Peter