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KEY FOB NOT WORKING AS WELL * PLEASE HELP*

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Old 10-08-2010, 12:29 PM
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Default KEY FOB NOT WORKING AS WELL * PLEASE HELP*

So here is the deal, my car key decided to stop working on me yesterday. This is the same key i've been using on my car for the last 4 years (dont have a spare or second one). Went to turn on car and it dies immediately with the immobilizer key flashing on my dash. Switched the battery on the actual remote now wont lock/unlock the car with remote?

I can still lock the car manually and the alarm sets itself, but when i try to start the car of course it wont.
I've tried the resyncing ( lock car manually, the open manually then press unlock button, turn ignition to on, then take out key immediately and press unlock on remote (also hold down unlock button on remote while turning ignition switch to on, take out key immediately and then let go of unlock) with no success. I've essentially tried everything over various forums...

Im out of ideas here? My car is stuck in my underground parking, so they are trying to charge me $200 to pull it out and then flatbed it to a stealership, where they want to charge me another $150....Any help would greatly be appreciated..

I think the only thing at this point i havent done is remove the battery terminal connections and touch them for 30 seconds and then plug back to battery, for some reason though, that just doesnt make sense to me?

Any other ideas you guys have im def open to?
Old 10-08-2010, 12:31 PM
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forgot to mention i vag-com my car and saw this under engine fault

17978
P1570-008


i also got these error codes, forgot what modules though
00956
00474
Old 10-08-2010, 01:44 PM
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Nothing you can do, you'll have to take it to the dealer.
The key has an RFID chip that communicates with the instrument cluster that tells your car it has a valid/ correct key in the ignition.
The system rarely fails, but nothing is foolproof. Independent shops rarely have the software to address the problem, but doesn't matter you have to have it towed anyway.
Sorry, there is quite literally no way around it for the average person.
I have the tool/software to program the keys and even I would probably just eat the $150dealer bill rather than try and fix it in a parking garage, since the tow bill is a given.
My advice to people I know who have these newer cars is GET SPARE KEYS MADE RIGHT AWAY!
If you get a car with only one key it's oly a matter of time before you lose it or it fails.
It WILL happen.
Old 10-12-2010, 04:25 PM
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Does this sound right to you guys? I had my car towed to independent (but reputable shop) and they said the immobilizer in my ecu fried. They said i have to get a new ecu and a new blade part key that will match upwith the ECU Vin #. They then are going to reprogram ecu adn key to car...they are charging me abut $900...seems a bit much to me, does this sound right to you? i was told this might happen in 1 out of every 100 cars if not more, but i just got unlucky on this one...

They checked all ignition wiring + harness wiring, reprogramming of keys etc and still no go
Old 10-13-2010, 04:21 AM
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Sounds like they have done everything they can to point to the ECU. Two thoughts:

1) You might read the link below, expecially the "immobilizer related meas blocks" link and see if your indie got that far. I have not played with VAGCOM to see if you can get this (warning sounds scary).

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...8/P1570/005488

2) At the bottom of the immobilizer link, the technique of "rebooting" the ECU by touching the battery cables together for 15 seconds is noted. You mentioned this in your first thread and said it didn't sound right (which i agree with by the way), but maybe a last resort before they install a new ECU? Hate for you to be the Guinea Pig, but...
Old 10-13-2010, 08:42 AM
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I'd get a second opinion. There is no "immobilizer part in the ecu". The immobilizer/ cluster/ ignition switch relationship is purely software driven, with the hardware being the pick-up coil located on the ignition switch and the RFID chip located in the key fob itelf. It's extremely rare for one of those things to fail- for what it's worth I'd go to a dealer that you haven't talked to about it, simply instruct them to make you a new key (or 2 or 3). The cluster simply looks for the "OK" signal from the key/pickup coil interaction, and relays the "OK" info to the ECU which allows the engine to run.
If for some reason they fail at getting the new keys to work, ask for a diagnosis. DO NOT TELL THEM ABOUT THE PREVIOUS DIAGNOSIS! Problem is, lots of times they'll simply say "yeah, that's possible" and start swapping expensive parts that you never needed.
A last resort, if you're inclined, is to tow the car home, remove the ECU (which is very easy) and send it out and have the Immobilizer programming deleted. This costs about $250 from various tuners and with overnight shipping takes 2-3 days. You lose a portion of your anti-theft security,...but come on! How many people out there have a key to your car?! It would ONLY remove the RFID chip/immobilizer relationship, the alarm would still function normally.
As the tune of $900 for Ecu repair/replacement (and ALWAYS expect a higher final bill, right?) I would seriously consider the Immo defeat. Especially since I have doubts that a single bit of software in the ECU failed and everything else is fine.
Good luck..

oh, BTW, you can disconnect BOTH battery cables and touch them together- the theory is it discharges the tiny bit of charge left in the system and clears current faults, erases ECU memory state. I've heard it's worked form some people for certain things.. but there's generally no danger if BOTH cables are disconnected.

Last edited by rollerton; 10-13-2010 at 08:45 AM.
Old 10-16-2010, 08:57 AM
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So i had the new ECU Programmed into my car along with my new blade key, and car turns on but now i have this other symptom. When the car has been sitting more then 30 minutes, the car will turn on but it seems like a struggle, as if the battery is low or something? It will turn on though, on first try its not like i have to turn it over several times or anything. If i drive the car, then make a quick stop,....like when i went into 711, then i jumped back into car and then it turned on the way it's supposed to...no struggle, its almost as if it has to get a charge or something?

Any ideas?
Old 10-16-2010, 11:44 AM
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Problem solved, battery wasnt holding charge well, new battery
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