misfire/rough idle for 10 seconds
#1
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misfire/rough idle for 10 seconds
Car is a 2004 Audi a4 1.8t fwd 4cyl.. 89200 miles.
Just had a timing belt (tensioner and idler included) change along with serpentine belt, water pump, thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, coolant housing flange, coolant flush, alignment, oil and filter change (0W-40 Mobil 1 full synthetic) change ... I fill up 93 gas and yesterday I put in a fuel injector cleaner when I filled up my tank.
Oh and also I changed one of the ignition coils which I had in reserve just in case one let out on me on the road like it did before on i95, and I also changed out my spark plugs and put in brand new ngk pfr6q gappd (which was in there before they just looked beat up) .. and another thing to mention when I pulled my coils out to do the spark plug change I noticed there was a tiny bit of oil on each coil, I called Audi dealer and they said its common just wipe off the oil from the coils and plugs housing, which I did.
So this morning, it was a little chillier then usual 61f ..I live in Florida and we have a cold front .. OK onto to the problem
This morning I go to start my car..and I always let it idle for about five minutes, and a couple of seconds into idling the engine starts shaking and the cel starts flashing .. right away I thought "damn there goes an ignition coil " because I had the same symptoms before and it was an ignition coil which is an easy fix .. but after maybe ten seconds of engine shaking and cel flashing it all stopped and everything went back to normal!!
The temperature gauge went half way and I drove and everything was fine..
Given all the information and services I have done to the car in the past week ... can anyone tell me if these are beginning symptoms of a ignition coil giving out or a plug or what??
Or is it just that all the new parts aren't used to the cold temperature so they were getting warmed up?
I'll keep y'all posted if this weird misfire happens again or if a coil actually goes out soon.
Any help /suggestions would help! Thanks
Just had a timing belt (tensioner and idler included) change along with serpentine belt, water pump, thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, coolant housing flange, coolant flush, alignment, oil and filter change (0W-40 Mobil 1 full synthetic) change ... I fill up 93 gas and yesterday I put in a fuel injector cleaner when I filled up my tank.
Oh and also I changed one of the ignition coils which I had in reserve just in case one let out on me on the road like it did before on i95, and I also changed out my spark plugs and put in brand new ngk pfr6q gappd (which was in there before they just looked beat up) .. and another thing to mention when I pulled my coils out to do the spark plug change I noticed there was a tiny bit of oil on each coil, I called Audi dealer and they said its common just wipe off the oil from the coils and plugs housing, which I did.
So this morning, it was a little chillier then usual 61f ..I live in Florida and we have a cold front .. OK onto to the problem
This morning I go to start my car..and I always let it idle for about five minutes, and a couple of seconds into idling the engine starts shaking and the cel starts flashing .. right away I thought "damn there goes an ignition coil " because I had the same symptoms before and it was an ignition coil which is an easy fix .. but after maybe ten seconds of engine shaking and cel flashing it all stopped and everything went back to normal!!
The temperature gauge went half way and I drove and everything was fine..
Given all the information and services I have done to the car in the past week ... can anyone tell me if these are beginning symptoms of a ignition coil giving out or a plug or what??
Or is it just that all the new parts aren't used to the cold temperature so they were getting warmed up?
I'll keep y'all posted if this weird misfire happens again or if a coil actually goes out soon.
Any help /suggestions would help! Thanks
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#4
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Yes, reduced mileage and power. Having done a timing belt, tensioner, and water pump 5 times (once on my B6, once on a B2 with an inline 5, and 3 times on my turbo V6 Nissan), there is no break in with these parts. I have heard of 3 cases where a botched timing belt job on a 3.0 V6 has cased knocking / pinging at elevated RPM and reduced power which were all fixed with a return to the shop. Never heard of this on the 1.8t, but it makes sense that in the first 10 seconds, the ECU will retard the normal advance based on the knock sensor during start via the VVT. If this is true, then it will never be able to advance the timing as programmed and thus your mileage and power will suffer. Finally, just simply too coincidental that this started right after the TB job was done.
That's my 2 cents.
That's my 2 cents.
Last edited by lyleswk; 04-25-2012 at 06:29 PM.
#5
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Yes, reduced mileage and power. Having done a timing belt, tensioner, and water pump 5 times (once on my B6, once on a B2 with an inline 5, and 3 times on my turbo V6 Nissan), there is no break in with these parts. I have heard of 3 cases where a botched timing belt job on a 3.0 V6 has cased knocking / pinging at elevated RPM and reduced power which were all fixed with a return to the shop. Never heard of this on the 1.8t, but it makes sense that in the first 10 seconds, the ECU will retard the normal advance based on the knock sensor during start via the VVT. If this is true, then it will never be able to advance the timing as programmed and thus your mileage and power will suffer. Finally, just simply too coincidental that this started right after the TB job was done.
That's my 2 cents.
That's my 2 cents.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
You're not doing your engine any favors by idling; idling is a necessary evil of internal combustion engines: they need the momentum of a turning flywheel to keep going, even when the engine isn't doing any useful work. It also takes longer for coolant and oil to warm-up at idle than when driving, which contributes to sludge. Personally, as soon as the engine fires, within ten revolutions I'm in gear and putting the gas to work.
#7
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You're not doing your engine any favors by idling; idling is a necessary evil of internal combustion engines: they need the momentum of a turning flywheel to keep going, even when the engine isn't doing any useful work. It also takes longer for coolant and oil to warm-up at idle than when driving, which contributes to sludge. Personally, as soon as the engine fires, within ten revolutions I'm in gear and putting the gas to work.
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
You're not doing your engine any favors by idling; idling is a necessary evil of internal combustion engines: they need the momentum of a turning flywheel to keep going, even when the engine isn't doing any useful work. It also takes longer for coolant and oil to warm-up at idle than when driving, which contributes to sludge. Personally, as soon as the engine fires, within ten revolutions I'm in gear and putting the gas to work.
#9
AudiWorld Super User
That's news to me; I've had turbo cars of one kind or another since turboing my first Datsun 510 back in the day. The thing is, soon as you have oil pressure, the turbo's bearings and seals are as lubricated as they will ever be. Now shutdown is different; if the turbine housing is really hot from a long pull up a hill or something, run it easy for a few minutes to bring the temp down.
#10
That's news to me; I've had turbo cars of one kind or another since turboing my first Datsun 510 back in the day. The thing is, soon as you have oil pressure, the turbo's bearings and seals are as lubricated as they will ever be. Now shutdown is different; if the turbine housing is really hot from a long pull up a hill or something, run it easy for a few minutes to bring the temp down.
Even on cool down, with turbos that are coolant and oil cooled... letting the turbo to cool down to prevent coking isn't as critical. This was true with older journal bearing turbos that were oil cooled only, but not so much with newer oil/water cooled turbos.