C32

After reading all the problems people had with the Neuspeed downpipe install I'm a bit nervous.

I'm not sure I'll be able to remove the heat shield. I might have to drop the cat but I don't want leaks after I reinstall it. Maybe I won't have to unbolt it, just drop it.

The car will be on Jack stands and one of those yellow ramps in the front.

Any advice you can give me before the install?

Sleeper1.8T

I don't have the Neuspeed system, but it should be the same. I didn't remove the heat shield over the CV joint or anything else, and I was able to get it done. First, get yourself some good penetrating spray at your local auto parts store. I can't remember the kind I got, but it was at Pep Boys in a yellow, black, and white can with writing all over it, saying it was the best stuff in the world. Anyway, spray the hell out of the three DP bolts and let them sit for a while. I don't know how many miles you have or where you are at in the country, but I had about 12K and I'm in So Cal, so my bolts were newer and cleaner. When you get under the car to unbolt, unbolt the that spring loaded tranny strap first. It'll give you a little wiggle room. Then, get a couple long socket extensions and a possibly a universal joint. The joint is not manditory, but it may help. You'll also need a small wrench to fit the nuts on top of the flange. Now, here's where the tricks come in. Some people have found that removing the front right tire has given them a better angle at the bolts, as well as removing that drivetrain heat shield, as you mentioned. I didn't end up needing to do either of these, but of course, I didn't know about them at the time. Once you have the bolts loose, slot that spring bracket bolt back through to help hold the DP in place while you remove the nuts and bolts, and separate the DP from the gasket. I don't know if the Neuspeed system comes with an extra gasket, so if it doesn't, be very careful when pulling the DP away from the cat. It is a metal sandwich, and has a tendancy to stick to the flange. Once you get everything apart, you'll be able to see how the nuts and bolts work. Since there is so much heat, they can't use normal silicone locking nuts. The nuts they use have the last line of threads smashed flat, which creates the tension when screwing it on. If you try to hand thread a nut and bolt, you won't get much further than one nut worth. Anyway, I hope this has helped you somewhat. If you need anything else, just ask. Good luck.

Sleeper1.8T

A couple of people that have had more miles and lived in colder climates have complained of some of the nuts heat fusing themselves to the top of the flange. My advise before you go cranking away with the rachet and wrench is to loosely place the wrench on the nut on top, and start racheting to see if the whole thing turns together. If the wrench moves as you rachet, then you know the nut is free from the flange.

Also, when you start to actually loosen the nuts, it will probably sound like bloody murder. As if you are going to break something. Don't be afraid. As long as you have everything lubed and the wrench and socket well seated, you should be fine.

duct tape

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4gen2/msgs/519150.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4gen2/msgs/519150.phtml</a</li></ul>

C32

Hmmmmm

C32

Wow! Great insight! Thanks for the tips!

NY-A4T03

C32- U have more pics of your car with the S4 door blades...