rear brakes
#1
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went to the dealer bc the brake light was coming on occasionally. they said that its because the rear brakes are bad, and they only have 4mm left on the pads. 4mm doesnt make me think the pads need to be replaced, but im not used to audis. the dealer wants $476 to do the pads and rotors which is way to high for rear brakes imo. I can only find rotors from powerslot, dont really want or need performance stuff but it will work. do you guys know of any other brands to look at? how simple is it to replace the rear pads and rotors? i have done brakes before, i do almost all of the work on my RX7s. thanks
#2
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Only the fronts have wear sensors, I thought. In fact, I'm positive as I just did my brakes, and nothing on the rears will indicate they are worn, so even though they could be correct that the rears are worn, the idiot light would not be an indicator.
You can do a B6 A4 3.0L upgrade kit that increases rotor size to 255mm for $249 and do it yourself. Easy project.
Or you could even do rotors and pads for under $200 and do it yourself in an hour.
$476 seems high, but well within stealership normal cost.
Check ecstuning.com
You can do a B6 A4 3.0L upgrade kit that increases rotor size to 255mm for $249 and do it yourself. Easy project.
Or you could even do rotors and pads for under $200 and do it yourself in an hour.
$476 seems high, but well within stealership normal cost.
Check ecstuning.com
#3
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There are plenty of brake options for this car. I'm using Zimmerman cross drilled with semi metallic brake pads, (PBR XBG) and stainless steel brake lines. (Dustless pads)
Replaced all rotors, brake pads and brake lines on all four for less then this.
On your Audi, rear brake pads are softer as why the wear faster. Putting better brake pads on will help your stopping too.
Look in some of the ebay stores also... Be sure to buy quality rotors and pads from a good mfg.
Replaced all rotors, brake pads and brake lines on all four for less then this.
On your Audi, rear brake pads are softer as why the wear faster. Putting better brake pads on will help your stopping too.
Look in some of the ebay stores also... Be sure to buy quality rotors and pads from a good mfg.
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Your brake light is coming on in cornering due to fluid level close to min line. 2mm is
audi's min spec for brake pad remaining, not including metal backing. As mentioned, there are no sensors on rear of any audi. They are not hard to do. You only need 13mm and 15mm wrench. 3.0l engine rear brake rotors come off easily without removing caliper carrier. you can take off 1.8t rear rotors by pulling hard after tilting past hub, and tap them back in without any damage, saves having to remove caliper carrier, which is difficult.
audi's min spec for brake pad remaining, not including metal backing. As mentioned, there are no sensors on rear of any audi. They are not hard to do. You only need 13mm and 15mm wrench. 3.0l engine rear brake rotors come off easily without removing caliper carrier. you can take off 1.8t rear rotors by pulling hard after tilting past hub, and tap them back in without any damage, saves having to remove caliper carrier, which is difficult.
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thanks for the help. the fluid is at max. the dealership said there was no wear sensor on the rear, maybe they were saying its bc of the extra fluid used when the pads are lower. dont quite remember their reasoning on it. i just remember 4mm, $476, and me saying no thanks. i will def check out that 3.0 kit.
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so i can save at least $130 by doing them myself. ill probably do that as long as there is no bleeding involved after just doing pads and rotors. actually, do the rotors really need to be done at the same time? is there going to be bleeding necesary after pads and rotors?
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