Serious problems with my car, need help
01-11-2007, 04:20 PM
#1
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Serious problems with my car, need help
Heres the deal:
I am up in VT skiing right now so my car has been sitting outside our condo for the past 3 days. I started it up tonight to head into town to buy some groceries and as usual it was grumpy upon initial startup. Every couple second the revs would drop, as if it was going to stall. As soon as it seemed to be a little warm, I reversed out and headed down the mountain.
About 3/4 of the way down I noticed that the throttle response was very poor and it was generally not behaving normally. I then came to a stop sign and as I was pulling away the engine was sputtering. The CEL came on and began to blink. I then pulled over to investigate. I could hear a clanking as the engine idled and it just sounded loud and wierd.
It was really dark there so I then drove the 100 yards down the access road to a lit parking lot. When I restarted the car it seemed like it had all the symptoms of a faulty coilpack. Luckily I had an R in the trunk and I swapped out what I determined to be the culprit.
All seemed well and the car sounded and drove fine. The CEL was still on, but not blinking. I drove for about 5 min down to the store for my groceries. I then left and proceeded back up the mountain. As I accelerated, the CEL came back on flashing and the engine stuttered.
Driving normally, without going over 1/2 throttle or 10-12 psi, the car feels fine. But as soon as I try to get on it, it stutters, as if the gas supply is being cut off or something. It is like it is choking.
As soon as I got to the condo I shut her down and here I am.
Any advice, input, or suggestions? This came on suddenly, I drove all the way from RI 3 days ago with absolutely no problems, I don't know what the problem is. I tried to be as explicit as possible to aid in finding a solution.
I am up in VT skiing right now so my car has been sitting outside our condo for the past 3 days. I started it up tonight to head into town to buy some groceries and as usual it was grumpy upon initial startup. Every couple second the revs would drop, as if it was going to stall. As soon as it seemed to be a little warm, I reversed out and headed down the mountain.
About 3/4 of the way down I noticed that the throttle response was very poor and it was generally not behaving normally. I then came to a stop sign and as I was pulling away the engine was sputtering. The CEL came on and began to blink. I then pulled over to investigate. I could hear a clanking as the engine idled and it just sounded loud and wierd.
It was really dark there so I then drove the 100 yards down the access road to a lit parking lot. When I restarted the car it seemed like it had all the symptoms of a faulty coilpack. Luckily I had an R in the trunk and I swapped out what I determined to be the culprit.
All seemed well and the car sounded and drove fine. The CEL was still on, but not blinking. I drove for about 5 min down to the store for my groceries. I then left and proceeded back up the mountain. As I accelerated, the CEL came back on flashing and the engine stuttered.
Driving normally, without going over 1/2 throttle or 10-12 psi, the car feels fine. But as soon as I try to get on it, it stutters, as if the gas supply is being cut off or something. It is like it is choking.
As soon as I got to the condo I shut her down and here I am.
Any advice, input, or suggestions? This came on suddenly, I drove all the way from RI 3 days ago with absolutely no problems, I don't know what the problem is. I tried to be as explicit as possible to aid in finding a solution.
01-11-2007, 04:31 PM
#3
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Do you have a VAG to see if you replaced the right CP...
or maybe more than one went bad on you. Or maybe the fuel pump is ****ting the bed.
Good luck Kyle. Hope you can enjoy the rest of your trip.
Good luck Kyle. Hope you can enjoy the rest of your trip.
01-11-2007, 04:35 PM
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What is the best method to figure it out, this is my first problem with it
I pulled them out one by one and swapped the new one in until the engine idled fine. It was freezing out so I really didnt feel like dicking around with it forever.
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01-11-2007, 08:15 PM
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I'd try to put the one you pulled back where it came and swap the R with the other cyl's
it's possible (could be likely) that you replaced the incorrect one. Cyl's 1 & 2 are the most common
01-12-2007, 03:38 AM
#10
Using idle quality to determine if you replace the bad coil, is not correct.
At first that seams reasonable, but is not proper for the following reasons:
First, a bad coilpack is generally able to generate good spark at the plug, with the very low gas pressure existing at the ignition point, at idling speed. Second, the intermittent erratic spark generation has no period, and can will often resume hitting every ignition point again, for awhile.
There is a couple of ways to isolate the cp causing the problem. One method involves short romps to provoke active misfires, pull off and pull the fuel injector harness connector on cylinder number 1. Test drive, if the car feels similar as before without the cylinder 1 fuel flow, that cylinder has the bad cp.
If it feels/sounds even worse, with two cylinders misfiring, then the cylender just disabled, is good. Continue process 1,2,3,4 in firing order, 1.8T FO is 1342.
Use a vag-com to check for DTCs, misfires recognized by cylender number with the bad cp.
First, a bad coilpack is generally able to generate good spark at the plug, with the very low gas pressure existing at the ignition point, at idling speed. Second, the intermittent erratic spark generation has no period, and can will often resume hitting every ignition point again, for awhile.
There is a couple of ways to isolate the cp causing the problem. One method involves short romps to provoke active misfires, pull off and pull the fuel injector harness connector on cylinder number 1. Test drive, if the car feels similar as before without the cylinder 1 fuel flow, that cylinder has the bad cp.
If it feels/sounds even worse, with two cylinders misfiring, then the cylender just disabled, is good. Continue process 1,2,3,4 in firing order, 1.8T FO is 1342.
Use a vag-com to check for DTCs, misfires recognized by cylender number with the bad cp.