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02-13-2004, 01:35 PM
#7
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Tips from S4pat aka A4pat
From another poster:
no need to pre-drill for the deadpedal. the plastic is so thin you can just poke the screw in. i'm a little concerned about longevity because there didn't seem to be much there for the screws to bite into...worst case i have to pull that piece of trim off and replace the hardware with a machine screw/nut.
gas pedal went on next...be sure that when the gas is floored the pedal won't interfere with the floor (the B5 pedal would have). i used a very thin drill bit to pre-drill the holes, and then used the supplied screws. the screws bit in really well, i'm not worried about them backing out.
the brake pedal is the hardest because the pedal base is metal. i used a thin bit to drill pilot holes, and then a larger bit to finish. the chuck i bought for my dremel wouldn't accept anything thicker than 1/8" bits, and the machine screws are thicker than that...so i had to wallow the hole out with the 1/8" bit (trial and error) until the screw would go thru. once all the holes are drilled, you can mount the pedal, but the tough part is being able to hold the locknut on the back of the pedal while you screw in the machine screws. if you're lucky, the holes you drill will be close enough to the stamped flange of the pedal base such that the flange will grab the flat on the locknut. i wasn't quite that lucky. i had to jam a feeler gage in there to be able to tighten the upper two nuts. (you'll understand what's happening here when you get in there...there's not really enough room to get an open end wrench or a socket behind the upper two nuts.)
the clutch is easy to drill since it's plastic. again, being able to hold the upper locknut was difficult, but you can get an open end wrench in there.
btw...i used a dremel with a flexible shaft attachment to do the drilling....it's nearly impossible to get a proper drill in there at the right angles. in retrospect, a 90-degree dremel attachment probably would have worked better.
plan on a couple hours....the most of which will be spent on the brake pedal. i had the gas and deadpedal on in like 10 minutes or less.
From me:
The pedals can be depressed while drilling to allow clearance for the drill. Helps to have a friend help out.
The hardest part was making sure the pedals were lined up (i also used a level to level the pedals). I put double sided tape on the back of the new pedals and lined them up. I took the headrest off of the drivers seat and moved the seat all the way back. I then looked at them from the back seat so that I could make sure they were level. The gas and clutch were super easy to drill as they were plastic. The brake is steel, so you have to be patient. Make sure you have a spare drill bit, as it is awkward to get in there with the drill. I broke a bit b/c I got off angle. Also, make sure the holes in the pedals are not lined up with the spines on the pedals...and that there will be clearance for the nuts. I made sure of this and had no problems. I used a flex-shaft attachment on my cordless drill.
I removed the knee bolster when I installed pedals on my A4, but using the flex shaft, I didn't on the S4.
let me know if you have other questions!
one more thing: do not drill out the gas and ded pedals to the full size, otherwise the screws will not bite into the plastic...i small pilot ho9le will do.
FKA "a4pat"
no need to pre-drill for the deadpedal. the plastic is so thin you can just poke the screw in. i'm a little concerned about longevity because there didn't seem to be much there for the screws to bite into...worst case i have to pull that piece of trim off and replace the hardware with a machine screw/nut.
gas pedal went on next...be sure that when the gas is floored the pedal won't interfere with the floor (the B5 pedal would have). i used a very thin drill bit to pre-drill the holes, and then used the supplied screws. the screws bit in really well, i'm not worried about them backing out.
the brake pedal is the hardest because the pedal base is metal. i used a thin bit to drill pilot holes, and then a larger bit to finish. the chuck i bought for my dremel wouldn't accept anything thicker than 1/8" bits, and the machine screws are thicker than that...so i had to wallow the hole out with the 1/8" bit (trial and error) until the screw would go thru. once all the holes are drilled, you can mount the pedal, but the tough part is being able to hold the locknut on the back of the pedal while you screw in the machine screws. if you're lucky, the holes you drill will be close enough to the stamped flange of the pedal base such that the flange will grab the flat on the locknut. i wasn't quite that lucky. i had to jam a feeler gage in there to be able to tighten the upper two nuts. (you'll understand what's happening here when you get in there...there's not really enough room to get an open end wrench or a socket behind the upper two nuts.)
the clutch is easy to drill since it's plastic. again, being able to hold the upper locknut was difficult, but you can get an open end wrench in there.
btw...i used a dremel with a flexible shaft attachment to do the drilling....it's nearly impossible to get a proper drill in there at the right angles. in retrospect, a 90-degree dremel attachment probably would have worked better.
plan on a couple hours....the most of which will be spent on the brake pedal. i had the gas and deadpedal on in like 10 minutes or less.
From me:
The pedals can be depressed while drilling to allow clearance for the drill. Helps to have a friend help out.
The hardest part was making sure the pedals were lined up (i also used a level to level the pedals). I put double sided tape on the back of the new pedals and lined them up. I took the headrest off of the drivers seat and moved the seat all the way back. I then looked at them from the back seat so that I could make sure they were level. The gas and clutch were super easy to drill as they were plastic. The brake is steel, so you have to be patient. Make sure you have a spare drill bit, as it is awkward to get in there with the drill. I broke a bit b/c I got off angle. Also, make sure the holes in the pedals are not lined up with the spines on the pedals...and that there will be clearance for the nuts. I made sure of this and had no problems. I used a flex-shaft attachment on my cordless drill.
I removed the knee bolster when I installed pedals on my A4, but using the flex shaft, I didn't on the S4.
let me know if you have other questions!
one more thing: do not drill out the gas and ded pedals to the full size, otherwise the screws will not bite into the plastic...i small pilot ho9le will do.
FKA "a4pat"
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02-13-2004, 01:39 PM
#8
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Are you serious?
I got the front, sides, rear, and grille.
sending those boxes to you might be very very very pricey (I was gonna buy some 28" x 28" x 12" boxes to ship my stock wheels, but I gave up after they told me the s&h = $175 (Boxes = $28)
sending those boxes to you might be very very very pricey (I was gonna buy some 28" x 28" x 12" boxes to ship my stock wheels, but I gave up after they told me the s&h = $175 (Boxes = $28)