trim repainting
04-13-2006, 08:07 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
trim repainting
I'm considering, as a project, customizing the shift surround (manual transmission) on my car. I have a 3.0, but I bought the black matte finish shift surround and ash tray cover from a 1.8T because I like how the black matches the surrounding trim.
My idea now is to paint that trim surround (not the alumnium part, just the black) so it has a glossy black finish that matches the exterior of my car (black). Having no prior painting experience, does anyone know the best way to do this, with minimal extra equipment (I'm not buying an airbrush compressor)? I assume I would need some sort of clearcoat to protect it and create the deep shine/gloss.
Oh and the real catch here is I have two holes, about 1/4" in said trim piece where a couple buttons are installed. In order to remove these holes and paint the trim, what would I have to do? Would bondo work? I would appreciate anyone's input on this, thanks!
My idea now is to paint that trim surround (not the alumnium part, just the black) so it has a glossy black finish that matches the exterior of my car (black). Having no prior painting experience, does anyone know the best way to do this, with minimal extra equipment (I'm not buying an airbrush compressor)? I assume I would need some sort of clearcoat to protect it and create the deep shine/gloss.
Oh and the real catch here is I have two holes, about 1/4" in said trim piece where a couple buttons are installed. In order to remove these holes and paint the trim, what would I have to do? Would bondo work? I would appreciate anyone's input on this, thanks!
04-13-2006, 10:10 AM
#2
Some tips:
Use a good quality acrylic lacquer spray paint.
To fill the holes, apply a patch to the backside and fill in the remaining hole disk with bondo or epoxy. Bondo would be easier to sand flush after it is cured, epoxy is more durable.
Wet sand the surface to receive paint with 1000>1500>2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Use an adhesion promoter as a first coat.
Next, with prewarmed spray can, apply a primer for plastic, compatible with acrylic lacquer, apply several light coats allowing 5 to 10 minutes tack time between coats.
Allow primer coat to dry completely.
Wet sand primer coat with 1500>2000 grit.
Rinse with tap water and dry.
Pre warm the paint in the spray can under hot tap water while shaking the can, warm to "lukewarm", only, NO warmer!
Apply several light coats, allowing tack time in between coats.
Maintain about 12 inches from spray nozzel to the work piece, passing in straight paths back and forth, progressing across the surface of the work piece from one side to the other. Do NOT hold the spray nozzel down continuously, release the nozzel at the end of each pass, and restart spray just before begining each succesive pass. After working across the entire surface, apply the next coat across the surface passing at 90 degrees from the first direction.
Allow color coat to dry.
Wet sand color coat with 1500>2000 grit paper, (Always back the paper with a sponge rubber sanding block.)
Rinse work piece, allow to dry completely.
Using prewarmed spray can, apply several light coats of clear. Allow to dry, then wet sand with 2000 grit.
Rinse and dry.
Apply a final coat of clear.
Allow to dry completely.
Polish the clear coat with auto body paint rubbing/polishing compound.
As a last step, apply a coat of car wax to the part.
Install part.
As with any skill, your results will get better after some practice and experience.
Take your time, and don't rush any steps.
And finally, have fun with the project!
To fill the holes, apply a patch to the backside and fill in the remaining hole disk with bondo or epoxy. Bondo would be easier to sand flush after it is cured, epoxy is more durable.
Wet sand the surface to receive paint with 1000>1500>2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Use an adhesion promoter as a first coat.
Next, with prewarmed spray can, apply a primer for plastic, compatible with acrylic lacquer, apply several light coats allowing 5 to 10 minutes tack time between coats.
Allow primer coat to dry completely.
Wet sand primer coat with 1500>2000 grit.
Rinse with tap water and dry.
Pre warm the paint in the spray can under hot tap water while shaking the can, warm to "lukewarm", only, NO warmer!
Apply several light coats, allowing tack time in between coats.
Maintain about 12 inches from spray nozzel to the work piece, passing in straight paths back and forth, progressing across the surface of the work piece from one side to the other. Do NOT hold the spray nozzel down continuously, release the nozzel at the end of each pass, and restart spray just before begining each succesive pass. After working across the entire surface, apply the next coat across the surface passing at 90 degrees from the first direction.
Allow color coat to dry.
Wet sand color coat with 1500>2000 grit paper, (Always back the paper with a sponge rubber sanding block.)
Rinse work piece, allow to dry completely.
Using prewarmed spray can, apply several light coats of clear. Allow to dry, then wet sand with 2000 grit.
Rinse and dry.
Apply a final coat of clear.
Allow to dry completely.
Polish the clear coat with auto body paint rubbing/polishing compound.
As a last step, apply a coat of car wax to the part.
Install part.
As with any skill, your results will get better after some practice and experience.
Take your time, and don't rush any steps.
And finally, have fun with the project!
04-13-2006, 10:18 AM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
WOW
Thanks for the tutorial! I've saved your message, and I will go over the procedure a few times before I make any attempts on this. I have the day off tomorrow, so it might make for a good weekend project! Unfortunately, I only have the one part to work with so I can't exactly practice, but I will take my time and do all the things you said.
Just one question, what do you mean when you say 1500>2000 grit paper... do you mean do 1500 and THEN 2000, or is it either/or?
Just one question, what do you mean when you say 1500>2000 grit paper... do you mean do 1500 and THEN 2000, or is it either/or?
04-13-2006, 10:26 AM
#4
Yes, first 1500, then 2000. It's a fussy detail, you can try using 2000 as a ....
single step, but it will take longer, maybe not, try it as single, and compare. You could instead use 1000 as a first for quicker results.
FYI, it would take me several days to refinish a part like that.
FYI, it would take me several days to refinish a part like that.
04-13-2006, 11:38 AM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
yeah the only thing i could find at the hardware store was 1500
I think there's no way I'll be able to do as good a job as you on this, but I'll try my best with what I can get. So far I have 1500 grit, sanding sponge, black lacquer, clear gloss poly, patch tape for the underside where the holes are, and bondo to fill the holes.
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