blueflames

I have front end vibration at 70-80 mph. 2003 A4 18t cabriolet. Factory 17" sport wheels.
88k, I purchased it with 86k and replaced the sludged motor with one from a salvaged 2004 A4 sedan(49k when totaled).
New turbo, new motor and snub mounts, new TB, tensioner, etc.
Axles/CV replaced at 67k.

What I have already tried and other items.

Same under acceleration or decel.
Have switched all 4 wheels (one at a time) with the spare, no change.
Doesn't appear to be bearings.
Can feel it somewhat through steering wheel.
Needs new tires, but I am waiting until I solve the vibration problem.

Ideas?

How does one tell if the upper control arms are bad?
Tie rod ends?
Could it be the struts?

Any possible insights would be appriciated

cdubbs407

This same issue is occurring on my 2003 Audi A4 (1.8T - non-quattro that I got used at 45k in 2006) and has for about two months now. It is very noticible on the highway, but when you let off the gas its a very smooth ride. It has 112k miles on it but most are highway miles from Orlando to the beach on 528 cruising at about 80mph. It has a 6 speed Multi-tronic Trans (which was serviced at 90k).

I originally thought that a wore out serpentine belt tensioner and bad coil packs were the culprits and just changed all of the above. It seemed to help but not fix the problem and now the shuddering is back and getting worse. It only occurs when I accelerate and am on the gas and the engine has a load.... but is smooth when I'm coasting... so I do not think its the suspension or the wheels or tires (also fairly new and balanced). I am at a loss and hate the way the gas pedal and steering wheel are vibrating and shuddering when I accelerate. Also, when I first hit the gas I sometimes get a shuddering and vibration (as of this week) of the seats and stuff in the car but it quickly goes away when pulling away and the 'normal' shudder is there... I have no cel and have scanned the car with a VAG which comes up clean.

The car has been well taken care of and has had the following service:

- 2 new front end wheel bearings (70k)
- oil and filter change every 5k
- new fuel filter (60k and 110k)
- timing belt and water pump change (90k)
- new mass air meter (80k)
- new oxygen sensors (80k)
- new engine mounts (2) and snub mount (80k)
- 4 wheel alignment (80K)
- 2 new tires - balanced (80k)
- 2 new tires - balanced (100k)
- spark plug change (90k)
- all new coil packs (110k)
- serpentine belt tensioner assembly (110k)
- new multitronic transmission fluid (changed with VAG at 90k)

Does this shake mean that my CVT is going bad? This is probably my worst fear and would suck because this transmission is like 6k and cant be worked on by anybody cause its so friggin complicated.... Does AoA help anyone with this for manufacturing a piece of crap transmission? Anyone dealt with this issue?

Need help too? Dont wanna take it to the dealer so they can charge me hundreds of dollars to tell me that theis **** is broken and it will cost another 6k to fix... I swear Audi think all of its customers are swimming in cash!

Frustrated and disappointed! I love my audi and thought I was taking every good care of it but apparently all the care and love in the world cant help A4 B6 models!

Do you have a tip/multitronic?

bboissonneault

Jack the car up on one side so the wheel is off the ground. Grab the wheel at 9 and 3. Pull until the steering wheel locks and then try to rip the wheel off alternating side to side. Really pull on it. Listen for any sounds and look for the upper control arms to move.

Now take that wheel off. Grab each link from the upper and lower control arms. Try to twist the link clockwise and counter clockwise. Good control arms, or bushings really should not twist.

Do this for both front wheels.

At around 100k, both the control arms and wheel bearings are seeing the end of their service lives. That's just how it goes. The fact is also, to do the job right you should replace both at the same time. I spent three days trying to free up the one pinch bolt for the upper control arms on the passenger side of my 02 before I broke down and bought a new steering knuckle from Audi. Believe it or not, it was less than $400. This is also the time to get a new bearing for that knuckle. You will need to have the hub pressed out of the old knuckle and into the new bearing.

You can buy the better than OE kit of Control Arms from ECS and the like for 250-400. Two new steering knuckles will cost you 800. And two bearings pressed in at a NAPA will be about 200.

If you buy all these parts, the job is pretty easy to do. That pinch bolt is the only difficult part of the job if you decide to try to salvage the old knuckle. Audi will want ovr 2000 to do the job. It will likely be close to 2500 depending on where you live. If you buy the new knuckles, you could be done with both sides in less than 4 hours.

Good luck!

J Ro

Hi,
I actually have the same problem...Just put a new engine on My 2004 Audi A4 cause the sludge problem... and a very anoying vibration on the freway around 70 to 80 miles per hour... thinking to buy new tires and change the brake rotors...Did you fix yours? How?
THANKS
Julio

yzf450pro06s4

Steering rack adjustment