What special tools are needed to replace the front wheel bearing on a 2004 1.8tqms?
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From what I can tell, it looks like the bearing bolts into the hub assembly. Can you just undo the 4 bolts and take it out?
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a bearing splitter is useful because the front one tends to seperate when you try to remove it.
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontwheelbearing1.jpg">
I ordered the sleeves and thrust discs directly from the dealer website (not as expensive as you might think and makes the job easier, let me know if you want the exact tool numbers I bought to get the job done).
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontbearingremoval.jpg">
You need the press to re-insert the hub in the new bearing housing, which is bolted to the upright.
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontwheelbearing2.jpg">
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontwheelbearing1.jpg">
I ordered the sleeves and thrust discs directly from the dealer website (not as expensive as you might think and makes the job easier, let me know if you want the exact tool numbers I bought to get the job done).
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontbearingremoval.jpg">
You need the press to re-insert the hub in the new bearing housing, which is bolted to the upright.
<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/frontwheelbearing2.jpg">
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But my understanding of it is that its basically a series of cups and washers and bolts. You find a cup that matches the diameter of the bearing, thread the bolt thru the spindle, and tighten it till it pops out.
I'm trying to replace my wheel bearing without removing any of the suspension components, so I won't need a realignment. I'm hoping that I can just remove the bearing cartridge from the car, put the new bearing housing kit in, press the hub in, and be good to go. Not sure if the hab tamer is overkill for this job.
What would I need to use the bearing splitter for?
I'm trying to replace my wheel bearing without removing any of the suspension components, so I won't need a realignment. I'm hoping that I can just remove the bearing cartridge from the car, put the new bearing housing kit in, press the hub in, and be good to go. Not sure if the hab tamer is overkill for this job.
What would I need to use the bearing splitter for?
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/6607/wheelbear.jpg"></center><p>
The hub-tamer/shark, requires other tools to make it work. Plus quite a bit of physical effort.
These tools are far from ordinary cups & washers. They are hardned steel, machined to exacting spec's.
Its actually easier to R&R bearings on a hydraulic press. I have a 20ton press in my garage, purchased just to R&R wheel bearings.
The hub-tamer does not always remove the bearings. Time and the elements can corrode bearings inplace, especially if you live up north where they salt the roads. Then a torch and a hydraulic press are "required".
The hub-tamer/shark, requires other tools to make it work. Plus quite a bit of physical effort.
These tools are far from ordinary cups & washers. They are hardned steel, machined to exacting spec's.
Its actually easier to R&R bearings on a hydraulic press. I have a 20ton press in my garage, purchased just to R&R wheel bearings.
The hub-tamer does not always remove the bearings. Time and the elements can corrode bearings inplace, especially if you live up north where they salt the roads. Then a torch and a hydraulic press are "required".
#9
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<center><img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/x1rider/bearingpost12.jpg"></center><p>I paid $250CAD for my 20 ton shop press, and I can use it for a bunch of other things. The bearing splitter is useful to remove the old bearing's inner race from the hub (the front bearing tends to seperate when removed) but I think some people use a chisel and hammer to do that. If I remember well from what I read in Bentley, you have to remove the axle to fit the hub tamer in there (Audi has a similar tool I think) but I'm not 100% sure about that.
The reason I removed the whole upright is because I didn't have 12point bits and stripped the head of the screws that hold the housing in the upright (I had to weld another bolt on the screws to remove them). I also had to bang the crap out of the housing with a 40oz ball peen hammer to get the housing out due to corrosion.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf06.html">http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf06.html</a</li></ul>
The reason I removed the whole upright is because I didn't have 12point bits and stripped the head of the screws that hold the housing in the upright (I had to weld another bolt on the screws to remove them). I also had to bang the crap out of the housing with a 40oz ball peen hammer to get the housing out due to corrosion.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf06.html">http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf06.html</a</li></ul>