diagnosticator1

Between the control module under the dash, pass side, and the effected leveling servo motor.
The specific DTC you have, is set by the leveling controller, when the characteristic voltage drop (determined by the total circuit resistance in Ohms, measured at the controller,) across the servo motor control circuits (servo motor plus wiring connection to the control module) cannot be determined by the control module, or measures below the minimum value for that circuit normally.
It is much more likely the problem is in the wiring harness, than with the servo motor, but trying a different servo motor is easy and quick as a test. If the problem DTC re sets despite the replaced servo motor, then the following additional steps are required:
A common cause is a loose wiring harness connector, or a faulty contact/wire terminal in the harness between the control module and the servo motor.
To help find a loose connection, first disconnect the harness at the servo motor and at the control module. Then connect a jumper from the servo motor connector wires to chassis ground one at a time, while on the control module harness connector, for each wire in turn, connect the control module end of each wire to one lead of a DVM set to measure circuit continuity. Then connect the second test lead from the DVM to chassis ground. The DVM must show good continuity. (very low resistance, less than 1 Ohm,) in the wires from the controller to the servo motor. Set the DVM to beep when circuit continuity exists, then wiggle and pull gently on the wiring between the control module and the servo motor, if there is a loose connection, the DVM will stop beeping when you cause the fault to occur while moving the wiring, and will be located near the point of applied motion.
If the above discussion is not completely clear and understandable to you, take the car to an Audi repair specialist for the required work.
email me for used servo motor for <$.

pattjin

I fixed it, thanks for all who replied. Now I can cart around my heiffers.

I took out the motor and noticed that the connections looked a little loose, so I plugged it back in and pressed the circuit board down with my fingers and the motor worked and the codes cleared. So I re-soldered all of the connections and installed everything. Works like new again.

One tip that I don't think I've seen mentioned about re-aiming the headlights, you have to have the headlights on (duh?) otherwise the controller will say "channel xxx not available".