Hayabusafalcon

2006 B7 A4 2.0T 232k miles. Daily driver. Owned since 2016. (How often do you find something better, and not only better but cheaper?)

I do not run iridium plugs. Nor platinum. There is something better out there for several reasons beyond just cost:

1. Audi recommends changing plugs at 30k miles. You'd be throwing out perfectly good iridium's or platinum's at that low a mileage.

2. Plugs on this car are right up top and are easy-easy to change.

3. Check the web but those in-the-know typically run copper-core plugs in turbos.
Reason: copper has better heat transfer capability and shunts heat away from the electrode tip much better than iridium's. This makes perfect sense to me.

4. No way would I run iridium plugs (fine-wire plugs) in a turbo engine. The fragile tips erode and break off. This is well documented in the literature.

5. I like the idea of changing plugs regularly in aluminum heads. Less chance of a "stuck" corroded plug and subsequent stripping of the plug hole. (I suspect this is the logic behind Audi's recommendation regarding plug change out interval of just 30k miles.)

And I use anti-seize on the threads.
Yes, I know-I know, plug/engine mfrs. say it's not needed, but that's just me. (A tiny dab....don't over do it boys.)

What I use and have had excellent performance over the past 6 1/2 eight years of ownership is shown in the pic below.
NGK V-Power BKR6E-11 part no. 2756 copper core (stock heat range).
Available at NAPA Auto and elsewhere. About $3 each. I change them annually in October before winter sets in here in Michigan. NGK rates them at 30k mile service life.

Good luck and all the best, Haya....

I added a follow up in post #7 below.


Edit: BTW: With all the counterfeit plugs being sold on line it's best to buy plugs locally.
NAPA, O'Reilly, AutoZone, Advanced, Canadian Tire (geez I wish we had CT here.)

Mrfixaudi08

Hey Hayabusafalcon,
Appreciate the information on the NGK coppers, I am going to try them out on my 08 2.0T S-line, have been running the iridium but not so impressed but was not aware about tip deterioration but makes perfect sense due to the high heat produced and the coppers are way less expensive. I presume the gap is the same for the coppers at .32.

Thanks Again
MrFixaudi08

Hayabusafalcon

Mrfix: Yes 0.32 in (0.8mm) seems to work nicely. Best of luck to you. Please let us know how your rig responds. Thx, Haya....

Mrfixaudi08

Thanks Haya, they will be going in this weekend, appreciate the info again, as we are always looking for improvements in performance without draining the bank account.

Mrfixaudi08

Hey Hayabusafalcon,
I popped in the coppers this weekend and I have to say there has been a considerable improvement in power and acceleration, Iridium's looked to be running way too hot with the white chalky look around the electrode. So a big thanks for sharing your intel and you said you change out the coppers once a year? just wanted to confirm

Thanks Again!!!

Hayabusafalcon

Yes annually. $12. Big spender hey....

Hayabusafalcon

Follow-up: 12 February 2023.
In my initial post I mentioned pulling plugs at least annually to avoid a stuck-corroded situation and possible damage to the (aluminum) cylinder head. Like myself, you may run into very-very stubborn coil packs. This is common with the 2.0T. They don't want to come out sometimes 'cause the rubber seals get stuck. They will start to lift out slightly then snap back into place. The first time encountering this is quite unsettling. It was for me.
Anyway, I responded to "Duchess" with some tips. A new member here who had some issues with plugs/coils. I hope this is helpful to you, I re-posted below.
All the best, Haya....

Link to original post of December 2022: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-...oblem-3037992/

Re-post:
Dutchess, +1 on what Jugle says. My comments:
-Your engine bay looks good. Wish mine looked as good.
-Your coil packs look fine, they are naturally a little cocked. To confirm they are seated properly you could pull them out and check the rubber seals. Here is how:

1. Pull the two torx screws. T-20 I think.
2. Disconnect all four electrical connections. Push in on the connector then toggle the release tab with the tip of a screwdriver or your thumb, then yank it off. (The connector, not your thumb. Ya-ya, funny man.) Pull the whole wiring harness away. It's fiddly, you have to unsnap all the catches then wiggle the whole works as a unit. Oh, it will take you 10+ minutes 20+ minutes first try.
3. Get yourself a big flat blade (10-12 inch size) screwdriver and a small block of wood, 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick or so.
4. Use the wood block as a fulcrum.
5. Catch the coil under the lowest "fin" with the tip of the screwdriver.
6. Now here is the secret.....Pry firmly but SLOWLY. On one side then the other. Alternately walk the coil off its seat. You are working against rubber seals and they are usually sticky. This may take some prolonged effort, but once the coil is popped up an inch or so you should be able to lift it out by hand. Check the rubber parts for tears/cracks, Replace if bad.
7. To reinstall, first lube the rubber seals with dielectric grease. Use plenty but don't overdo it. Next time they will come out with minimal effort. Insert coil, push down with heel of hand firmly. Put your shoulder into it. You will feel it clunk in.