2009 A4 3.2L Oil Change
10-25-2010, 03:26 PM
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
2009 A4 3.2L Oil Change
Here are the steps necessary to change your oil on your 2009 A4 3.2L.
Parts: Mann Oil Filter HU 722
Mobil One 0W-40 (6.9 quarts)
Notes: I did this the old fashioned way by lifting the car up on jacks and removing the oil drain plug. I do own a Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator so going forward all oil changes will be done with that to eliminate getting under the car and removing the oil drain plug.
1.Once the car is lifted and safe to work under remove the plastic molding under the car by removing the Phillips and torx screws. You don’t have to take the furthest front or furthest back covers off but the piece in the middle.
2.Once removed you will expose the oil drain plug. Using a 6mm hex wrench/socket remove the drain plug. Be sure to have a catch pan below for the used oil. The oil will flow more freely if you have removed the oil filler cap on the top of the engine.
3.While the oil is draining remove the oil filter from the top, back of the engine. I found it useful to put a rag under it as a small amount of oil will drip from the filter. You can use a pair of channellock pliers to loosen the filter cover or a 1-7/16” socket.
4.Pull the filter out of the housing and place it in a place where the remaining oil can drain from the filter.
5.Remove the rubber gasket from the filter cover using a pair of long nose pliers. There should be a new one that came with your filter. Put a little bit of oil on the new gasket and insert into the slot in the filter cover. Make sure the tab on the gasket is pointed up for easy removal during your next oil change.
6.Remove the thin rubber gasket from where the oil filter cover screws onto the filter holder on the engine block. It might be helpful to use a thin head screw driver. There should be a new one with your filter. Put a little oil on it and install it where the old one came off.
7.Once the gaskets have been installed press the new filter into the filter cover. It will take a bit of a push to get it into place. It should fit solidly into the cover. Replace the filter/cover into the engine block and tighten to 25nm (approx. 18.5 ft lbs).
8.Once all the oil has drained replace the drain plug and tighten.
9.Refill the engine with new oil (6.5 – 6.9 quarts) and replace the engine oil cap.
10.Start car and let it run for a few minutes to distribute the oil.
11.After driving the car for a bit so the engine is at normal operating conditions pull over to a flat place and let the car idle briefly. Shut off the engine and wait 2 minutes.
12.From here follow the directions in your owner’s manual to check the engine oil level through the MMI (there is no dipstick). Once the proper level is attained you can reset your oil change indicator by following the directions in your owner’s manual. If you want to reset the service indicator you will have to take it to and Audi dealer or buy a VAG-COM (VCDS) device.
Parts: Mann Oil Filter HU 722
Mobil One 0W-40 (6.9 quarts)
Notes: I did this the old fashioned way by lifting the car up on jacks and removing the oil drain plug. I do own a Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator so going forward all oil changes will be done with that to eliminate getting under the car and removing the oil drain plug.
1.Once the car is lifted and safe to work under remove the plastic molding under the car by removing the Phillips and torx screws. You don’t have to take the furthest front or furthest back covers off but the piece in the middle.
2.Once removed you will expose the oil drain plug. Using a 6mm hex wrench/socket remove the drain plug. Be sure to have a catch pan below for the used oil. The oil will flow more freely if you have removed the oil filler cap on the top of the engine.
3.While the oil is draining remove the oil filter from the top, back of the engine. I found it useful to put a rag under it as a small amount of oil will drip from the filter. You can use a pair of channellock pliers to loosen the filter cover or a 1-7/16” socket.
4.Pull the filter out of the housing and place it in a place where the remaining oil can drain from the filter.
5.Remove the rubber gasket from the filter cover using a pair of long nose pliers. There should be a new one that came with your filter. Put a little bit of oil on the new gasket and insert into the slot in the filter cover. Make sure the tab on the gasket is pointed up for easy removal during your next oil change.
6.Remove the thin rubber gasket from where the oil filter cover screws onto the filter holder on the engine block. It might be helpful to use a thin head screw driver. There should be a new one with your filter. Put a little oil on it and install it where the old one came off.
7.Once the gaskets have been installed press the new filter into the filter cover. It will take a bit of a push to get it into place. It should fit solidly into the cover. Replace the filter/cover into the engine block and tighten to 25nm (approx. 18.5 ft lbs).
8.Once all the oil has drained replace the drain plug and tighten.
9.Refill the engine with new oil (6.5 – 6.9 quarts) and replace the engine oil cap.
10.Start car and let it run for a few minutes to distribute the oil.
11.After driving the car for a bit so the engine is at normal operating conditions pull over to a flat place and let the car idle briefly. Shut off the engine and wait 2 minutes.
12.From here follow the directions in your owner’s manual to check the engine oil level through the MMI (there is no dipstick). Once the proper level is attained you can reset your oil change indicator by following the directions in your owner’s manual. If you want to reset the service indicator you will have to take it to and Audi dealer or buy a VAG-COM (VCDS) device.
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Kalbsb8 (01-07-2023)
10-25-2010, 04:06 PM
#2
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Good write-up Prime Time and nice clear pics to boot which are always a nice bonus 
. I'm sure your efforts will come in handy for first-timers.
Cheers!
. I'm sure your efforts will come in handy for first-timers.Cheers!
10-28-2010, 02:40 PM
#3
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Follow-up to step #12. I took my car into the dealership to have the service due light reset and after they were done (15 minutes) the service advisor said this one was on him but next time it would cost $35. Guess I'll be finding a new dealership for my next car if they can't even cover a 15 minute light reset that should have been made possible by Audi.
Here are a few more pics I couldn't include in the first post as I had reached my picture limit. Underside of car, drain plus and filter with cover.
Here are a few more pics I couldn't include in the first post as I had reached my picture limit. Underside of car, drain plus and filter with cover.
09-15-2011, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for posting the photo of the drain plug on your A4. I felt like the world's most clueless mechanic when I couldn't locate the drain plug on my 3.2 A6. I was looking for a 19mm hex head bolt, which is shown on the Rock Auto web site as the correct drain plug, and there was nothing like that to be found anywhere.
09-19-2011, 11:56 AM
#6
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01-11-2015, 09:22 PM
#10
Low volitility is the biggest factor for an oil used in DI. Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 with PureBase gas-to-liquid base is astonishingly low, like 5% NOWACK.
Many oils are in the 14% volume loss, the better ones are 10%. Mobil does not post this spec, and knowing what I know about M1, I suspect a poor result.
No one will like my solution for the wife's A4 3.2 nor my Q5. The wife does a bit of short trip driving and more driving than I do. I'm going with 6 month oil changes, pretty normal stuff. Even though oils like M1 0w-40 are available in jugs now, I can also get 10w-30 semi syn HD diesel oils, like Rotella, Delo and Motorcraft (Conoco)....the MC coming in 5q jugs for $16 or so. That's $25 for an oil change with state of the art oil, more modern additives than the formulas for old snoozer oils like Syntec 5w-40.
10w-30 is about the same in cold as 5w-40.....which is too thick below 0f. Mobil 1 0w-40 is about the same as German Syntec 0w-30 on this chart. Also, see how 5w-30 from a jug is better in cold than 0w-40...
Many oils are in the 14% volume loss, the better ones are 10%. Mobil does not post this spec, and knowing what I know about M1, I suspect a poor result.
No one will like my solution for the wife's A4 3.2 nor my Q5. The wife does a bit of short trip driving and more driving than I do. I'm going with 6 month oil changes, pretty normal stuff. Even though oils like M1 0w-40 are available in jugs now, I can also get 10w-30 semi syn HD diesel oils, like Rotella, Delo and Motorcraft (Conoco)....the MC coming in 5q jugs for $16 or so. That's $25 for an oil change with state of the art oil, more modern additives than the formulas for old snoozer oils like Syntec 5w-40.
10w-30 is about the same in cold as 5w-40.....which is too thick below 0f. Mobil 1 0w-40 is about the same as German Syntec 0w-30 on this chart. Also, see how 5w-30 from a jug is better in cold than 0w-40...