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Audi A4 oil issues

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Old 10-04-2022, 05:58 AM
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yup that car has a horrible reputation.

Not all are oil burners , some are doing very well... bt the problem is you just dont know, even my spark plugs were perfect. If i washed the car and removed the carbon from the tail pipes you would have zero idea it burned oil. There is nothing you can do to see it is an oil burner until you own it.

I was reading the other day that a guy in an 09 got a replacement for his engine as his tensioner let go .. bought a 13 engine and had it put in . yup you guessed it one quart every 500 miles.

Place he got offered him another one but he was still out the 1400 he paid to R and R the engine.
Old 10-04-2022, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Musicguyz
I still have the car financed so I can't really sell it until I pay it off sadly and I saw the trade in value and its horrible.
Without knowing the terms of the finance arrangement, having the car completely paid off is usually not an impediment to disposing off it. The finance company will typically have a chattel mortgage on the car so it will not be a free and clear title transfer. The purchaser may assume the mortgage which means that you will only get the net difference between what remains on the mortgage and the trade in value of the car (minus the paperwork cost of dealing with the mortgage transfer). If the trade in value of the car is less than the mortgage balance that is a sticky problem. The purchaser may request that you pay that balance for the privilege of unloading the car. If the value of the car is less than the outstanding mortgage balance on the car the scorched earth option may be to just walk away from the car and let the finance company repossess it. That may have credit rating implications.

My inclination would be to shop around the dealerships to find out what may be the best deal you can get on a trade in. I expect that the used car managers will know about the Audi oil consumption problem and will de value the car as a result; however, until you explore that option you are just guessing as to how bad it is going to be.

If you elect to keep the car, stop with the snake oil additives. Purchase your motor oil in bulk to get the lowest price and carry a case around in the trunk for frequent top-ups. My neighbor bought a shiny used 2012 Q5 which turned out to have the high oil consumption problem. The case of oil in the trunk was her solution until she eventually traded it in on an equally shiny used 2015 Q5 which has been without issue.
Old 10-04-2022, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 142 guy
Without knowing the terms of the finance arrangement, having the car completely paid off is usually not an impediment to disposing off it. The finance company will typically have a chattel mortgage on the car so it will not be a free and clear title transfer. The purchaser may assume the mortgage which means that you will only get the net difference between what remains on the mortgage and the trade in value of the car (minus the paperwork cost of dealing with the mortgage transfer). If the trade in value of the car is less than the mortgage balance that is a sticky problem. The purchaser may request that you pay that balance for the privilege of unloading the car. If the value of the car is less than the outstanding mortgage balance on the car the scorched earth option may be to just walk away from the car and let the finance company repossess it. That may have credit rating implications.

My inclination would be to shop around the dealerships to find out what may be the best deal you can get on a trade in. I expect that the used car managers will know about the Audi oil consumption problem and will de value the car as a result; however, until you explore that option you are just guessing as to how bad it is going to be.

If you elect to keep the car, stop with the snake oil additives. Purchase your motor oil in bulk to get the lowest price and carry a case around in the trunk for frequent top-ups. My neighbor bought a shiny used 2012 Q5 which turned out to have the high oil consumption problem. The case of oil in the trunk was her solution until she eventually traded it in on an equally shiny used 2015 Q5 which has been without issue.

i have to agree with this .. i know a few guys with a case of oil in the trunk. just remember to take it out before showing anyone the car
Old 10-04-2022, 12:16 PM
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^ I carry a 5 quart jug in my trunk. Mine used NO oil right when I first got it. IDK what manner of additive was in there, but very shortly afterward, like within the week it started using it. I have gotten to around 300 miles a quart or so and actually have started using a bit less oil now. Have changed the PCV and some other valve or baffle thing under the valve cover. I run the recommended fuel from the recommended supplier (real gas I think it's called?), I use 5W30 Euro blend and have been changing the oil at 3K intervals. This happened to coincide with other repairs made up to and including the timing chain. At this point with the market all jacked up on new and used cars my intention is to just ride it out. My understanding is that long blocks might come back in stock this coming year. My biggest issue is actually just finding someone actually willing to work on this car. I have inquired various places about having the piston fix done and not one single mechanic around will touch it. Every yard motor I can find has an "out of sight" warranty, so that is no bueno either.
Old 10-04-2022, 04:54 PM
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The correct fix requires an engine out repair, fitting new rods, pistons and rings. A good mechanic will also measure out the journals on the crank and if they are at the limits or out of spec (being a 12 year old engine that is always a possibility) then you are into fiddling with the bearings and grinding the crank. The mechanics know that with the parts cost and labor cost (particularly if the crank needs work) most owners of a 2010 A4 are going to gag at the cost of the repair so why even bother quoting, particularly if they already have all the work they can handle. The other down side for the shop is that a repair like this ties up a bay in the shop if the repair does not go perfectly which creates a back log with other customers.

The other consideration is that an early B8 A4 is likely always going to be viewed as an oil burner even if it is fixed. You do all that work and it doesn't really increase the re sale value of the car. You only do this work if you are planning to keep it.
Old 10-05-2022, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 142 guy
The correct fix requires an engine out repair, fitting new rods, pistons and rings. A good mechanic will also measure out the journals on the crank and if they are at the limits or out of spec (being a 12 year old engine that is always a possibility) then you are into fiddling with the bearings and grinding the crank. The mechanics know that with the parts cost and labor cost (particularly if the crank needs work) most owners of a 2010 A4 are going to gag at the cost of the repair so why even bother quoting, particularly if they already have all the work they can handle. The other down side for the shop is that a repair like this ties up a bay in the shop if the repair does not go perfectly which creates a back log with other customers.

The other consideration is that an early B8 A4 is likely always going to be viewed as an oil burner even if it is fixed. You do all that work and it doesn't really increase the re sale value of the car. You only do this work if you are planning to keep it.
agree on all counts.

When i did mine ( 14 ) i fired in new rod bearings without even thinking about it . fortunately the later cars do not need rods as they already have the larger wrist pin
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