When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have bought me a new battery for my Audi A4 2010 B8 avant. After looking at the code, I found out that the code doesn't compare with the original one. I need a code like this "11digits-3digits-10digits" (part No°-Vendor code-Serial No°) I think I'm screwed with the code I have. I don't have experence with battery replacement soo maybe you guys could help me out?! The original The new one. The code I need.
If it's the same type (AGM) and same capacity (105Ah), you could just change a digit in the serial number space and call it a day.
I wonder why Bosch calls their AGM line S5 AGM (S5A) over there vs. S6 (S60) over here. S5 over here is a non-AGM battery grade. The Bosch catalogs only refer to S60, S5E, S50, and down.
But the French page implies S4E and S5A (vs. S5E and S60 for here). https://fr.bosch-automotive.com/en/p...5_agm/s6_agm_1 So much for consistency.
The date code on that battery is 917, so Jan 2019.
That's what I'm saying. Stop trying to figure out what the correct new code would be. You're unlikely to come to a successful conclusion. Just take the current value coded into the car and just change one of the last few digits so the car knows it's a new battery.
The DTCs are just saying that something is drawing more current from the battery than the BEM design allows, after the car is asleep. Do the entry times look like anything of interest? Up late jamming the radio with the engine off? The freeze frame for the energy management activation shows a term 30 of only 11.2V. But it's an hour sooner than the excessive quiescent current draw DTC. Maybe the quiescent test was an hour later and only then tested poor. Did you have to charge up the battery to start it yesterday?
That said, the stats look very odd. -18A is high. When I use VCDS on the car with the engine off, I turn off the DRLs, turn off the climate system, make sure the doors are shut, and leave active the MMI but I do mute it. I run -10.2A this way. Even if I turn the climate system and DRL back on, it only goes up to -14A.
Group 023 is the quiescent current test fields, though mine just say invalid. 022 has the quiescent current average, 0.00 on mine. 021 has a field, quiescent current stage (actual); mine says StatCurStg 0, whatever that means.
I'm not sure what the quiescent voltage as logged in 020 represents. Mine is 12.70V. My battery voltage is currently 12.30V and 87% SOC.
Yes, your right. There is something thats keep running when the contact is off. And no I don't need too extra charge the battery too start up. But it is a big loss of energy. I went to the garage too find where the power loss is comming from because I don't have the tools to find out. I hope the battery is doing good afther the test.
With a multimeter, you can get pretty far in that search.
So there is going to be electricity running from the battery to the device and back to the battery. The flow of electrons (ie, the charge current) is actually flowing bat (-) -> device -> bat (+), though school still teaches the reverse semantic. Since we have no superconductive wiring yet, any electricity flowing across something will experience a voltage drop. Something like a fuse.
When you look at your fuses, you'll notice the tops have two contact points you can hit with a multimeter probe. Useful for testing if the fuse is blown. Or in our case, measuring the voltage drop across the fuse and then referencing that value in a chart (I'm sure a google search for voltage drop test will lead you to it) to show amount of current which would cause that voltage drop across that type/size fuse. This is not a factual ammeter measurement, but it's good enough for our purpose.
So open the cargo lid and the front doors so you have access to the fuse panels in those locations (left end of dash, right end of dash, cargo right rear). There are more, but start there. Manually latch the locks on the two doors and the cargo lid. Then lock the car. It must beep. If it doesn't beep, it knows something is not closed and likely will not start the sleep sequence. Give it 60 minutes if you can, then come back and use the multimeter in DC voltage mode low range (like mV) and see if you measure any voltage drop across all the fuses in all three places.
The process is a lot easier with an actual current loop tool. But those are not as common a household tool as a voltmeter. So start there, see if anything is found. If not, then time to move to more complicated consumers.
I guess it should be an obvious thing to point out anything you've added to the car or modified in the electrical chain. Such as you made your 12v sockets always on and you leave stuff in the 12v sockets, or you hardwired some addon device direct to the battery. But in case it's not obvious, ....
09-14-2020, 02:28 AM
BE: Battery code
