SMac770

P0016 00 [104] - Incorrect Correlation That's a death sentence for the 2.0T. No idea how significant it is in a 2.0 TDI. And you've got a slew of other issues throughout the car. Lot of them seem to be wiring related.

On the voltage drop test, you latch the doors and boot lid manually, then leave them open while you lock the car, then go away for an hour, maybe half hour, so everything goes to sleep. Readings before the CAN busses are asleep are not particularly useful for this purpose. Come back and don't touch or move anything (like your seat) that would give the car any indication that something is going on. And do your voltage readings across the test contacts of the fuse. There's no reason to wait, there's no complete circuit for the multimeter to test until both probes are touching the fuse.

Those mA computations would be too high for an asleep vehicle. It looks like the infotainment system was not fully asleep yet.

2010, so B8.0 MMI 3G years. I only have the wiring documentation for US spec vehicles. You'd need to get the relevant docs for your Euro spec vehicle from erwin.audi.com if you want them. Clipping sound? You mean clicking sound? Is that in the right rear (fuses and relays) or left rear (radio, amp, etc). Clicking at the right would be the relays. Clicking at the left would be the radio/amp. I don't see a J525 in your module list, so I assume you do not have the B&O sound system. So you have just a single radio+amp unit in the left rear.

When noting the fuses, you should note the location by column and fuse number. Driver's end of dash is panel C, with columns 1 (black), 2 (brown), and 3 (red). Passenger's end of dash is panel D, with columns 1 (black) and 2 (brown). And right rear is panel F, with columns 1 through 5 (black, black, brown, red, black).

The fuse 4 in column 3 of panel F, 40A, is to the J532 voltage stabilizer, which my doc says is only in stop/start vehicles. Does your car have the stop/start system? This provides power to column 5 of panel F, where the infotainment fuses are. So the radio/MMI draw you measured would be the same power you were measuring for the "DC/DC converter".

DaPoEn

The engine is running good. I have this problem for a while and no problems soo far. I also think the problemis wiring related.

I did the test after an hour of soo, but I think the car doesn't fall a sleep because of a condition is not mate. Yesterday the car was fully charged, now it's empty again. Maybe It has to do when I put the alarmsystem off. I will do the measurement over today.

I want to register, but it keeps asking for orgID... I tryed the chassis number but it would not excepted it.

I know the sound of relays but it's softer. I think it's something like a buzzer. It appears on the right side, just before the fusebox. It is a trailer detection module. But it's strange I hear that same clikking sound in the front on HVAC also.

Now I took the picture I didn't hear that sound anymore. maybe It's because the battery is almost empty. But the HVAC system keeps grouch in the front.

fusebox on the driver side
pos 6 col 2 brown electronic stabilization program fuse 10amp drops 2.7mv gives me 351mA

fusebox on the passenger side
pos 1 col brown cd-player - fuse 5amp - drops 1.5mv gives me 84mA
pos 3 col brown mmi/radio - fuse 10amp - drops 0.8mv gives me 104mA
pos 8 col brown airconditioning - fuse 5amp - drops 2.5mv gives me 140mA
pos 9 col brown steering column lock - fuse 5amp - drops 7.7mv gives me 431mA

Fusebox in the luggage compartment
pos 3 col 2 brown DC/DC converter pad1 - fuse 40amp - drops1.8mv gives me 1250mA
pos 4 col 2 brown DC/DC converter pad1 - fuse 40amp - drops 0.8mv gives me 556mA
pos 3 col 4 black amplifier radio - fuse 30amp - drops 1.2mv gives me 609mA
pos 4 col 4 black MMI - fuse 7.5amp - drops 10mv gives me 917mA

the DC/DC converter could power many things. I would like to know that... I have two of them. The car has a stop/start system.

DaPoEn

The measurements where the same. But I know what that clicking sound means... It means the system boots. I found out when I was siting in the car and the handbrake light was turning on/off on/off...

Soo now I need too find out why the electronic system is turning on and off. It even hapens when I close the doors normal, with lock and without locking the car.

Could it be that below is the problem and how to check it or fix it?

pos 9 col brown steering column lock - fuse 5amp - drops 7.7mv gives me 431mA

SMac770

On erwin.audi.com, I see Audi OrgID as a field. But it's not marked with an asterisk, so just leave it blank. A private individual won't have such a thing anyway.

It could be relays inside the device. One of your DTCs was from the trailer module, a short to plus (12v) on the brake light line. AoA never imported any trailer equipped B8 A4, so the trailer control module is not well documented in my US spec documents. But there is enough left over material to determine the J345 has a 12-pin plug (center) and 16-pin plug (side). The 12-pin plug seems to be all the connections to the car, and the 16-pin plug seems to be all the connections to the trailer hitch electrical plug. You might unplug the 16-pin plug and leave it be (unless you use the trailer hitch regularly) and see if that impacts anything.

On the HVAC end, you do have two flap motor errors. It could be you're hearing the system trying to deal with them.

Oh, is your J794 (MMI 3G control unit, in the dash above the HVAC controls) starting to flake out? Depending on the version, if you have MMI Navigation plus (you'll see HNav in the SW version screen), the system has a hard drive. Or you think it's just you hearing it booting each time and you're cycling the ignition a lot in the testing?

Another person was having battery drain issues every few days. The amp would out of nowhere overnight seem to come on and drain the battery. He isolated this by pulling the fuse for the amp and not seeing any phantom drain event. Again, his was random timed, not steady. Might go one night without an issue, might go two, might go zero. But amp fuse pulled, no problems. I suspect the issue was something about the amp causing a problem on the optical bus, such that the infotainment system is waking back up. The J794 tells all the infotainment units to go to sleep over the optical bus. Maybe the J794 is not doing that correctly, or having its own problems with sleep mode. Or maybe there's an issue with signal quality on the optical bus.

The real way to isolate that and see would be to pull the fuses and see.

The two 40 amp fuses in carrier (column) 3 (you don't have a column 1 installed in your car). Fuse 3 powers telephony stuff, TV tuner, and the radio controlled aux heat control module. But I don't see any of those types of devics in your VCDS scan. So I don't understand why you have that 40A fuse. The radio is also listed under that fuse, but I doubt that's the case with your MMI 3G configuration. Fuse 4 powers the J532 voltage stabilizer. This device is specific to start/stop equipped cars, and it powers the 5th carrier.

Can we get a more complete pic of the right rear fuse panel?
You have a J794, so you have MMI 3G. When you look at Car -> Setup -> Version, does it say HNav or BNav?
Which speaker system do you have? Is there a subwoofer on the rear deck? Are there round tweeter rings that say Bang & Olufsen in the front door sail cards?
That'll help at least with some level of what fuses are there and what they should be powering.

As to the steering column lock, I'll test mine and see what I get. That's too high for a sleeping overnight car, imo. But I can't imagine what could be done about it.

DaPoEn

I can do that. I will unattach te trailer module. I did that with the HVAC controller but the I diden't help. So I think that's not problem.

Idd, it has a hard drive but the grouch sound comes from the HVAC controller, it stopt when I pulled the plug out and yes it makes that sound evry time the car electronics boots when the car is closed.

By amp, you mean amplifier? I can try that and I will pulling fuses out one by one.

Intresting to know about the voltage stabilizer.

I will look in too the navigation and tell when I'm with the car. It's an integrated navigation screen in the mid console, maybe that will helps. and off corse I can take a full picture of the rear fuse panel when I m at the car. No there are not bang & Olufsen. I looked for a name but I couldn't find it. I think Bose, but I m not sure.

I tryed to lock and unlock the steering column but the car keeps booting. Maybe by pulling the fuse out it will helps. I see what it does.

Thanks for helping me out. You hear from me soon.

DaPoEn

I checked all the fuses from the luggage too the passenger fusebox. I did pulled the high consuming out and the problem remains. Also the trailer module was not the issue.

The only thing I can imagen is the connector of the door of the driver side or the one of the fuses, but I think its the connector that came loose.

Will be continued.

DaPoEn

This week my battery was dying again. I think I found it!