RobDDD

I am new to the Audi brand and am considering the A4 Quattro in either the Premium Plus or Prestige trims. Any thoughts on either or are there any must have options that should be included. Additionally, what type of deals are typical? How much of a discount off of MSRP can be expected during the haggling process. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

idealdreams

I'm an options guy so I had a loaded Prestige A4 with everything but the cooled seats. I think adaptive cruise is a must have which I don't believe is standard even in the Prestige trim - I'm pretty sure you have to add the Driver Assistance Package to get that feature plus a bit more.

Deals vary based on demand and specials throughout the month/quarter/year so hard to speculate on discounts or MRSP.

Flyguy31

I bought a PP in March with cold weather package and BO stereo and got 10% off msrp.

PghRich

If you believe TrueCar, I put a few configurations in and 10% off MSRP was a pretty consistent result

guy_incognito

I've got a Prestige and got about 7% off MSRP while negotiating, it was pretty easy to do and I felt like I could've done more but I was happy with 7% off.

I will say it did take some time to find a Prestige in the color combination that I wanted and that had the specific options I wanted. Premium Plus is the most commonly sold configuration A4 so naturally dealers stock a lot of those.

If you're very particular, you can always order from the factory, factory incentives will apply towards those as well and you can negotiate a price below MSRP for factory ordered cars.

A4Driver

In the many years I've been purchasing cars, the tons research I've read have suggested these tips:
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• Never use MSRP as the starting point in your negotiations. Almost nobody pays MSRP. Depending upon the car, a dealer can easily offer a car at $1,500 to $3,000 below MSRP, and still not be giving you a great deal. It is better to bargain from the invoice price up, than from the MSRP down. Even then, the invoice price is not a true gauge of what the dealer paid for the car. It is possible to buy a car for "under invoice."

• Never negotiate the monthly payment. I include a quote from realcartips.com: "The truth is, car dealerships don't make much money on the sale of a new vehicle. Their profit usually comes from financing, trade-ins, and add-ons such as warranties and service contracts. If you're only focused on the monthly payment, the dealer can adjust the purchase price, the interest, terms on the financing, and the trade-in allowance to get you the exact monthly payment you're looking for. The problem is, you'll get ripped off. It's easy for a dealer to get you practically any monthly payment you want -- all they have to do is extend the car loan or low-ball you on the trade-in, or any number of other tricks."

• Negotiate the price of your trade-in separately.Dealers often juggle the price of a new car by giving you a "great" price and then screwing you on your trade-in. Negotiate the price of the new car as if you don't have a trade-in, and then negotiate the trade-in separately. In the past, I've told the sales manager, "I haven't decided yet whether or not I want to sell my current car privately or not, but in the meantime I would like to negotiate a price for the new car."

I know that many of you have your own ideas about negotiating, and won't agree with me. But as I said initially, these are suggestions.
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guy_incognito

To add to that, I've only ever gotten below invoice when manufacturers are holding incentives that provide $x off. So if I negotiate invoice and the manufacturer is offering a $1,500 instant rebate, I go for invoice less the $1,500 rebate. That $1,500 is reimbursed to the dealer so there's no reason to not get that extra discount.

misanorotrs4

It is heavily dependent on your market, it can range from a couple grand in total savings to in excess of 8,000. All variable and dependent on regional incentives, qualification for manufacturer or lender specific rebates, availability of car, etc. There's no one true answer to this questions as someone like myself in SoCal can save over $10k on the total car vs someone in Fargo, ND might only save a couple grand.

PghRich

Research is the key. There are several source to find historic transaction prices, pricing trends, and available incentives, including factory to dealer.

Don't be afraid to stick with the data and walk if the dealer isn't willing to meet what you think is a fair price. They'll find you. (If you have the right data)

Flyguy31

I also received $1500 off to use their financing. I was paying cash, but I financed for 4 weeks, paid off the loan in full and got the discount. I asked before signing the paperwork if there was any fee for early payoff and they said no. They said we would like you to carry the loan at least a couple months, but said pay it off whenever you want.