DIY Oil change and oil level.
#121
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I recently use the oil recently extractor and only four quarts came out, I tried everything pumped until only air was coming up the tube, even sucked a little oil out of the air filter well. So I assumed it was oil consumption the MMI read about 3/4. So I put 4 quarts in drove it around the block, let it sit for 5 minutes and the MMI says Max. My question is why would it only take 4 quarts?
#122
AudiWorld Super User
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It wouldn't only take 4 quarts. If your extractor did not hit bottom, or if the extractor uses a flexible tubing that can curl back up off the bottom, etc., then it is possible to miss some of the old oil, even if the oil pan is "flat" under the dipstick tube. If the AMI/MMI says "Max" then either it is suffering from mass hypnosis, or there was some old oil left in the pan. Personally I wouldn't lose sleep over that, I'd recheck the dash display after 30 minutes/miles or overnight though, and if it still said max, just change the oil a little early next time around. (Since the old oil's additives are partly consumed.)
I don't worry about the display, only worry about whether some gen-you-whine authorized Audi mechanic might steal my clandestinely acquired REAL DIPSTICK. "You are not allowed to have that installed in this car. If we had wanted you to have that, we would have built it with one. And if you had a warranty, we would have to void it because you have tampered with our finely precise engine!"
Hey, its an Audi.
I don't worry about the display, only worry about whether some gen-you-whine authorized Audi mechanic might steal my clandestinely acquired REAL DIPSTICK. "You are not allowed to have that installed in this car. If we had wanted you to have that, we would have built it with one. And if you had a warranty, we would have to void it because you have tampered with our finely precise engine!"
Hey, its an Audi.
#125
#126
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This same thing happened on my last change, maybe 4.5 quarts after sucking out the filter housing and several repumps from the pan, including after filter removal.
The engine was warm, so I don’t know where it was hiding. Perhaps I should trim the end of the pump tube flatter.
I do every other change from the bottom so I can do all of the inspections, so it’s no big deal I guess.
The engine was warm, so I don’t know where it was hiding. Perhaps I should trim the end of the pump tube flatter.
I do every other change from the bottom so I can do all of the inspections, so it’s no big deal I guess.
#127
AudiWorld Junior Member
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Within this thread there is a thoughtful conversation about the benefits using a high quality VW502 versus VW504 rated oil. Both VW502 and VW504 oils are acceptable for use in the Audi A4 B9 engine. The VW404 standard is a newer and it is reported to have better protection against engine wear, reduction in sludge and deposits formation as well as reducing gasoline consumption due to lower friction when compared to the older VW502 rating. A number of posters were concerned that the higher sulfur standard in US gasoline, as compared to the European Union (EU) petrol sulfur standard could adversely affect the VW 504 oils as compared to the more "robust" VW 502 oils. The the sulfur petrol standard EURO-5 standard, EN 590-2009 (which is currently enforced in Europe) has a 10 ppm sulfur limit. The USEPA-Tier 2 gasoline standard, which took affect in 2017 in the USA, has a 10 ppm maximum sulfur level in gasoline sold in the states. As of now both the EU and the USA sulfur regulations are the same.
If you stick to top tier fuel especially you are fine in terms of the fuel quality/sulfur content in USA now vs EU. I also DIY and have moved to VW 504.00; as I understand it to be about the most difficult builder approval to obtain. The most mediocre 504 oil you can get your hands on is probably better than 90% of the stuff on the shelf.
I decided on Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30 and my most recent used oil analysis (UOA) blew me away. 8 PPM of iron over 5,000 miles! I'm sold on the 504.00 spec. It is true that the starting TBN is low but TBN depletion is not linear and when I tested mine at 5K miles it was still 3.4.
For those who are asking about the weight of the oil 0w-40 vs 5w-30 etc,...Remember for our cars it is the builder approval (502 or 504) that matters. Don't fuss too much over the weight. The only time I could see moving away from my "30 weight" 504.00 is if i planned on a heavy track day and I wanted to run something that would better maintain oil pressure at a very high engine temp.
FWIW, I know plenty of VW/Audi guys that prefer Castrol 0w-40 (a 502 oil). I would give them more ear if it weren't for the UOA I have on my 504 oil.
I also don't quite understand the desire of people to get their hands on the absolute cheapest oil possible. Would you seek out the cheapest brakes, or tires? If you want cheap a naturally aspirated 4cyl Toyota Camry will save you thousands over a decade of ownership. I don't get it.
#128
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for people who do their own oil changes/maintenance (or even at independent shops), how do you add that to your car's service record so there's no issues if you ever need to file a warranty claim or have a history of maintenance when selling the car?
#130
AudiWorld Super User
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In theory you would save the purchase receipt for the oil and filter, and keep a log of it somewhere. I just add a sticker under the hood, which also reminds me of when to do it next.