Brake pads replacement
#1
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My dash shows a "Brake Pads!" warning. Time to replace them, I guess. Replacing the rear pads requires the mechanic to move the calipers via computer, not by squeezing them with clamps. This is because our cars have electronic parking brake.
Philly area dealers want anywhere from $350 to $500 per pair. Has anyone used a knowledgeable indy mechanic in Philly area, who has VAG-COM cable and programs to do the job appropriately?
Thanks.
Philly area dealers want anywhere from $350 to $500 per pair. Has anyone used a knowledgeable indy mechanic in Philly area, who has VAG-COM cable and programs to do the job appropriately?
Thanks.
#2
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My dash shows a "Brake Pads!" warning. Time to replace them, I guess. Replacing the rear pads requires the mechanic to move the calipers via computer, not by squeezing them with clamps. This is because our cars have electronic parking brake.
Philly area dealers want anywhere from $350 to $500 per pair. Has anyone used a knowledgeable indy mechanic in Philly area, who has VAG-COM cable and programs to do the job appropriately?
Thanks.
Philly area dealers want anywhere from $350 to $500 per pair. Has anyone used a knowledgeable indy mechanic in Philly area, who has VAG-COM cable and programs to do the job appropriately?
Thanks.
#3
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Actually what you do for the rears is just put the E-Parking Brake into the pad replacement position, which requires the use of VAG-COM or the dealer. Then you can push the caliper piston in to replace the pads. This is one of many reasons why I purchased the VAG-COM cable. Will pay for itself in short order by not having to pay dealer labor costs.
Thanks
#4
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You can find information on VCDS software and the cable at Ross-Tech.com.
#5
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i just did the job. no vcdc needed.
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
#6
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i just did the job. no vcdc needed.
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
BTW - what is your location? You say you have an S Line but the US did not have an S Line in 2014
#7
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i just did the job. no vcdc needed.
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
to retract the piston I ran jumper cables from another car crimped some small wires at the ends of the cables. then unplugged the electric plug that goes to the servo motor attached to the caliper, used the wires to put direct 12V to the motor. if the piston starts to come out - just turn the wires to change the polarity. the motor will hum but the piston would not move for a while. may be 15 seconds in you will see the piston turn - it means the parking brake is completely retracted. now you can press in the piston in and install the caliper back with new pads.
just be careful to not short the wires. lots of sparks.I just wrapped the wires 5mm from each other with duct tape to separate them
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#8
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Just came back from talking to a local dealer - always an unpleasant feeling. So..
I asked for a price to change brake pads (front or rear).
They say - "about $900".
After recovering from shock, I ask - both front and rear?
He says -- "no just one end, it includes the rotors. You like stopping on a dime, don't you?".
I say -- I don't think I need the rotors replaced, just the pads.
He says -- In 99.9% of brake pads jobs we replace the rotors because it's needed.
I say -- can you give me exact quotes?
After talking to parts -- pads only $400, pads and rotors $750.
I walked away saying I will think. Not only I was pissed that they throw numbers around like $900, while it's really $750. But also, thinking they will definitely take me for a ride saying I need rotors replaced, even if I don't. Upsetting experience. Somehow they think if I splurged on a luxury car, I throw money left and right, which is not always true.
End of rant.
Now real question:
1) What's your opinion of replacing rotors every time you change brake pads? Seems wasteful to me. On my previous BMW I only changed rotors once, when the car reached 50K-60K miles, not every time I changed brakes.
2) When you changed brake pads - at dealer or not - did you replace rotors every time?
I asked for a price to change brake pads (front or rear).
They say - "about $900".
After recovering from shock, I ask - both front and rear?
He says -- "no just one end, it includes the rotors. You like stopping on a dime, don't you?".
I say -- I don't think I need the rotors replaced, just the pads.
He says -- In 99.9% of brake pads jobs we replace the rotors because it's needed.
I say -- can you give me exact quotes?
After talking to parts -- pads only $400, pads and rotors $750.
I walked away saying I will think. Not only I was pissed that they throw numbers around like $900, while it's really $750. But also, thinking they will definitely take me for a ride saying I need rotors replaced, even if I don't. Upsetting experience. Somehow they think if I splurged on a luxury car, I throw money left and right, which is not always true.
End of rant.
Now real question:
1) What's your opinion of replacing rotors every time you change brake pads? Seems wasteful to me. On my previous BMW I only changed rotors once, when the car reached 50K-60K miles, not every time I changed brakes.
2) When you changed brake pads - at dealer or not - did you replace rotors every time?
#9
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Now real question:
1) What's your opinion of replacing rotors every time you change brake pads? Seems wasteful to me. On my previous BMW I only changed rotors once, when the car reached 50K-60K miles, not every time I changed brakes.
2) When you changed brake pads - at dealer or not - did you replace rotors every time?
1) What's your opinion of replacing rotors every time you change brake pads? Seems wasteful to me. On my previous BMW I only changed rotors once, when the car reached 50K-60K miles, not every time I changed brakes.
2) When you changed brake pads - at dealer or not - did you replace rotors every time?
1. Not uncommon for the dealers to suggest replacing the rotors. IMHO generally not needed as while the rotors do wear, the pads wear much more rapidly. You should be able to find the specification for minimum allowable rotor thickness - this is spec'd by Audi - and measure your rotor thickness to determine whether you are within limits or not.
2. On my old C5A6 I changed the pads several times....but the rotors only once. This was in 200,000 miles of driving.
How many miles are currently on your vehicle?
#10
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Grapeking, I only have 28K miles on my C7 A6. I think it's the rear pads that need a replacement, because at the last service the dealer already wanted to replace those, even before the sensor was tripped. I refused and I wondered how the heck at 20-something thousand miles my rear need a replacement.
I agree that they should tell me the thickness, but he was also talking about some "lip" that can either wear out the pads or vice versa. I didn't understand because I knew he was bull-$h***ing.
If I could only find a good local (Philly) indy mechanic that I could trust, I would take my car there, rather to a stealership.
I agree that they should tell me the thickness, but he was also talking about some "lip" that can either wear out the pads or vice versa. I didn't understand because I knew he was bull-$h***ing.
If I could only find a good local (Philly) indy mechanic that I could trust, I would take my car there, rather to a stealership.