Easy way to shine A6?
05-04-2014, 06:01 PM
#51
Well you do need to be a little careful when you do a coating, but the two things to remember are to prep the car well first and then apply the coating thin. The biggest mistake someone inexperienced uses is applying too much. That is where a screw up can happen. A little goes a long way.
Honestly CQuartz is really easy to work with - and you will be able to get more than two coats out of their 50ml kit. Actually experienced guys can get more than 2 coats from their 30ml kit
But if you are worried, stick with the sealant. Like I say, I really like the Duragloss products for this - and they are a no brainer to work with, plus they are inexpensive yet used by lots of pro detailers. They just work and they last a long time if you also use the Duragloss 601 bonding agent which extends the life. No fancy advertising, no fancy claims - just results.
They are easy to put on / take off. For example, I did my daughter's 2003 Honda Element last year which had not been done on many years (we bought it used and she had never waxes / sealed it in the 3 years we owned it) - full correction. Quick claybar, then I detoxed it with Iron-X, used Menzerna Fast Gloss polish, followed by Duragloss 501 then two coats of Duragloss 150 / 601. Had to use a step ladder to do the roof of this SUV. So 10 year old paint surface, did all that in a day. Paint looked like new. Set outside all winter (in a harsh environment) while she is at college and still has some protection left now.
I would stick with the products pro-detailers use and stay away from the off the shelf consumer stuff like turtle wax, Mothers, etc
Honestly CQuartz is really easy to work with - and you will be able to get more than two coats out of their 50ml kit. Actually experienced guys can get more than 2 coats from their 30ml kit
But if you are worried, stick with the sealant. Like I say, I really like the Duragloss products for this - and they are a no brainer to work with, plus they are inexpensive yet used by lots of pro detailers. They just work and they last a long time if you also use the Duragloss 601 bonding agent which extends the life. No fancy advertising, no fancy claims - just results.
They are easy to put on / take off. For example, I did my daughter's 2003 Honda Element last year which had not been done on many years (we bought it used and she had never waxes / sealed it in the 3 years we owned it) - full correction. Quick claybar, then I detoxed it with Iron-X, used Menzerna Fast Gloss polish, followed by Duragloss 501 then two coats of Duragloss 150 / 601. Had to use a step ladder to do the roof of this SUV. So 10 year old paint surface, did all that in a day. Paint looked like new. Set outside all winter (in a harsh environment) while she is at college and still has some protection left now.
I would stick with the products pro-detailers use and stay away from the off the shelf consumer stuff like turtle wax, Mothers, etc
1. Duragloss 501
2. Duragloss 150 / 601.
3. P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
can you tell me which pad you used? Thanks, Maverick61.
05-05-2014, 05:37 AM
#52
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I use either Buff and Shine:
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...polishing-pad/
or Lake Country
http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buff...d-chart-lc.htm
For the Duragloss 105 / 601 I actually applied that my hand rather than with the DA as I did not want any cut with it and it is easy to apply by hand. If you want to apply it with a pad, I would use a Red finishing pad and then buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...x-sealant-pad/
Same thing with the P21S Concours Carnauba Wax - if you want to apply it with your machine, use the red finishing pad and buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
I think you will be quite happy with the results. Good luck
PS - if you were going to use a polish like Menzerna SF4000 - I would use an orange cutting pad. But I really don't think you need that given what you described about the car's surface
It is basically Yellow or Orange pads for the most cut - swirl remover / polishes that provide more correction. Then White or Green for a light cut for minor correction / pre-wax cleaners like Duragloss 501, etc. Then red pad for no cut - application of sealant / wax
Last edited by Maverick61; 05-05-2014 at 05:44 AM.
05-05-2014, 09:00 PM
#53
For the Duragloss 501, I would use either the white or green polishing pads (Most brands follow the same color scheme). They will provide a light cut. Given what you described, green probably would be sufficient for your car
I use either Buff and Shine:
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...polishing-pad/
or Lake Country
http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buff...d-chart-lc.htm
For the Duragloss 105 / 601 I actually applied that my hand rather than with the DA as I did not want any cut with it and it is easy to apply by hand. If you want to apply it with a pad, I would use a Red finishing pad and then buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...x-sealant-pad/
Same thing with the P21S Concours Carnauba Wax - if you want to apply it with your machine, use the red finishing pad and buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
I think you will be quite happy with the results. Good luck
PS - if you were going to use a polish like Menzerna SF4000 - I would use an orange cutting pad. But I really don't think you need that given what you described about the car's surface
It is basically Yellow or Orange pads for the most cut - swirl remover / polishes that provide more correction. Then White or Green for a light cut for minor correction / pre-wax cleaners like Duragloss 501, etc. Then red pad for no cut - application of sealant / wax
I use either Buff and Shine:
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...polishing-pad/
or Lake Country
http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buff...d-chart-lc.htm
For the Duragloss 105 / 601 I actually applied that my hand rather than with the DA as I did not want any cut with it and it is easy to apply by hand. If you want to apply it with a pad, I would use a Red finishing pad and then buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
http://www.carpro-us.com/5-1-2-buff-...x-sealant-pad/
Same thing with the P21S Concours Carnauba Wax - if you want to apply it with your machine, use the red finishing pad and buff off by hand with a microfiber towel
I think you will be quite happy with the results. Good luck
PS - if you were going to use a polish like Menzerna SF4000 - I would use an orange cutting pad. But I really don't think you need that given what you described about the car's surface
It is basically Yellow or Orange pads for the most cut - swirl remover / polishes that provide more correction. Then White or Green for a light cut for minor correction / pre-wax cleaners like Duragloss 501, etc. Then red pad for no cut - application of sealant / wax
1 orange pad
2 green pads
3 Red pads
Duragloss 501
Duragloss 105 / 601
P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher
Astro Pneumatic 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
Now the question is how can I explain my wife this is money saving way without opening a detail shop.
05-06-2014, 04:46 AM
#54
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Ok I just ordered the followings.
1 orange pad
2 green pads
3 Red pads
Duragloss 501
Duragloss 105 / 601
P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher
Astro Pneumatic 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
Now the question is how can I explain my wife this is money saving way without opening a detail shop.
1 orange pad
2 green pads
3 Red pads
Duragloss 501
Duragloss 105 / 601
P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher
Astro Pneumatic 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
Now the question is how can I explain my wife this is money saving way without opening a detail shop.
05-06-2014, 04:49 AM
#55
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BTW - here is the ratio to use if you want to mix the 601 in with the 105 (or with the 501) - copied from Autogeek:
've had a few large vehicles to do lately and did not want to take the time to do both 601 and 105 so I spoke to Jerry at Duragloss and he suggested I combine the 2 in a 4 to 1 ratio of either 501 or 105 at 4 parts and 601 at one part. I bought a couple of cheap dollar store plastic ketchup dispensers and mixed 2 bottles up...one with 601/501 and one with 601/105. It worked like a champ. The only downside Jerry said is that the shelf life would be very short; measured in hours. I found that after 2 days it was maybe a bit thicker, but still working very well. This saves one step for each product (501 and 105) and saves time. In addition, you are still getting the benefit of the 601...flash cures, longer durability. I wanted to share this info as I know there are a lot of DG fans here on AGOL. Just mix up small batches and you'll be good to go. I used some more tonight and it was still fine after 4 days.
OR another way:
While these products can be used separately and in the order above, they can also be used together. Duragloss #601 is like a primer but it's also a chemical catalyst which reacts with Duragloss #105 or #501 bolstering its durability.
When applied together I'll squirt 5 nickle sized globs of Duragloss #501 on a 5 1/2" pad then 2 or 3 drops of Duragloss #601 in the middle of each glob. Place the pad on the surface, the speed setting to 3, and you're ready to go.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...105-501-a.html
Note - I used the second method to apply the 501/601 combo with my Harbor Freight polisher.
I used the first method to apply 105/601 by hand.
Both work. The advantage of the second method if you are using a machine is no need to pre-mix and thus no potential waste if you mix too much
've had a few large vehicles to do lately and did not want to take the time to do both 601 and 105 so I spoke to Jerry at Duragloss and he suggested I combine the 2 in a 4 to 1 ratio of either 501 or 105 at 4 parts and 601 at one part. I bought a couple of cheap dollar store plastic ketchup dispensers and mixed 2 bottles up...one with 601/501 and one with 601/105. It worked like a champ. The only downside Jerry said is that the shelf life would be very short; measured in hours. I found that after 2 days it was maybe a bit thicker, but still working very well. This saves one step for each product (501 and 105) and saves time. In addition, you are still getting the benefit of the 601...flash cures, longer durability. I wanted to share this info as I know there are a lot of DG fans here on AGOL. Just mix up small batches and you'll be good to go. I used some more tonight and it was still fine after 4 days.
OR another way:
While these products can be used separately and in the order above, they can also be used together. Duragloss #601 is like a primer but it's also a chemical catalyst which reacts with Duragloss #105 or #501 bolstering its durability.
When applied together I'll squirt 5 nickle sized globs of Duragloss #501 on a 5 1/2" pad then 2 or 3 drops of Duragloss #601 in the middle of each glob. Place the pad on the surface, the speed setting to 3, and you're ready to go.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...105-501-a.html
Note - I used the second method to apply the 501/601 combo with my Harbor Freight polisher.
I used the first method to apply 105/601 by hand.
Both work. The advantage of the second method if you are using a machine is no need to pre-mix and thus no potential waste if you mix too much
Last edited by Maverick61; 05-06-2014 at 04:54 AM.
05-06-2014, 05:42 PM
#57
What's Xpel Ultimate? fEArmE, Can't you see I'm one bottle away from opening a detail shop? no more new super mega boding formula v2000 :-)
Maverick61 I thought I was going to mis only 150 and 601 but you are suggesting this?
1. Duragloss 501 /601
2. Duragloss 150 / 601 (two coats)
3. P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
Maverick61 I thought I was going to mis only 150 and 601 but you are suggesting this?
1. Duragloss 501 /601
2. Duragloss 150 / 601 (two coats)
3. P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
05-06-2014, 08:01 PM
#58
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Yea, sorry - you can and should mix the 601 with either the 501 or 105. 601 is a bonding agent that extends the life and durability of the coating. So yes, I would use it with both. You will have plenty. Plus the 601 allows you to do the next coat immediately - rather than waiting 12 hours for the previous coat to cure. So do exactly as you have listed above
Most people say with that type of combo, using the 601, they get one year of protection. I will have to see when my daughter is home from college in a few weeks exactly how much protection she has left - it has been about 10 months all parked outside now since I did her car. My wifes car done at the same time but garage kept still has this protection left on it
When you put on the 501 / 601 be prepared that your pad may turn a little black. That will be from the 501 / 601 cleaning the paint. Now you may not see a lot if your car is new . I know on my daughters Honda, even after polishing, the pads turned dark black by the time I was done (remember this was a 10 year old vehicle - not sure if it was ever detailed like this). On my wifes VW - paint was in better shape so just a little dirt showed up on the pads. Just make sure to wash the pads when you are done. You can reuse them. I would just make sure to use the 501/601 pad for only that - however many times you reuse it
not my picture but this is an example - new white pad and used white pad with 501/601:
05-07-2014, 07:22 PM
#59
Kevin
Yea, sorry - you can and should mix the 601 with either the 501 or 105. 601 is a bonding agent that extends the life and durability of the coating. So yes, I would use it with both. You will have plenty. Plus the 601 allows you to do the next coat immediately - rather than waiting 12 hours for the previous coat to cure. So do exactly as you have listed above
Most people say with that type of combo, using the 601, they get one year of protection. I will have to see when my daughter is home from college in a few weeks exactly how much protection she has left - it has been about 10 months all parked outside now since I did her car. My wifes car done at the same time but garage kept still has this protection left on it
When you put on the 501 / 601 be prepared that your pad may turn a little black. That will be from the 501 / 601 cleaning the paint. Now you may not see a lot if your car is new . I know on my daughters Honda, even after polishing, the pads turned dark black by the time I was done (remember this was a 10 year old vehicle - not sure if it was ever detailed like this). On my wifes VW - paint was in better shape so just a little dirt showed up on the pads. Just make sure to wash the pads when you are done. You can reuse them. I would just make sure to use the 501/601 pad for only that - however many times you reuse it
not my picture but this is an example - new white pad and used white pad with 501/601:
Yea, sorry - you can and should mix the 601 with either the 501 or 105. 601 is a bonding agent that extends the life and durability of the coating. So yes, I would use it with both. You will have plenty. Plus the 601 allows you to do the next coat immediately - rather than waiting 12 hours for the previous coat to cure. So do exactly as you have listed above
Most people say with that type of combo, using the 601, they get one year of protection. I will have to see when my daughter is home from college in a few weeks exactly how much protection she has left - it has been about 10 months all parked outside now since I did her car. My wifes car done at the same time but garage kept still has this protection left on it
When you put on the 501 / 601 be prepared that your pad may turn a little black. That will be from the 501 / 601 cleaning the paint. Now you may not see a lot if your car is new . I know on my daughters Honda, even after polishing, the pads turned dark black by the time I was done (remember this was a 10 year old vehicle - not sure if it was ever detailed like this). On my wifes VW - paint was in better shape so just a little dirt showed up on the pads. Just make sure to wash the pads when you are done. You can reuse them. I would just make sure to use the 501/601 pad for only that - however many times you reuse it
not my picture but this is an example - new white pad and used white pad with 501/601:
05-18-2014, 05:30 PM
#60
These are the ones I used today and this is after a long day in the garage.
1. Wheel washing: with Chemical Guys Premium Blue Heavy Duty Wheel & Rim Cleaner
2. Washing: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash
3. Claying: Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
claying,
4. Duragloss 501 / 601 with Green pad
5. Duragloss 150 / 601 with Red pad
6. P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
7. Cleaning window: Stoner Invisible Glass
I think it took me 4-5 hours.
1. Wheel washing: with Chemical Guys Premium Blue Heavy Duty Wheel & Rim Cleaner
2. Washing: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash
3. Claying: Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
claying,
4. Duragloss 501 / 601 with Green pad
5. Duragloss 150 / 601 with Red pad
6. P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
7. Cleaning window: Stoner Invisible Glass
I think it took me 4-5 hours.
Last edited by kevinsong; 05-18-2014 at 05:35 PM.